46 replies to this topic

[adam_93rio]

To me, all the problems you are having could all be linked to the engine mounts.
The leaking downipe is quite often down to the engine moving too much, your exhaust is bolted to the car so it flexes the join, causing it to leak

I would say the problem you are having with the selection of gears and losing drive is down to that too, you say it happens when braking for a roundabout, your engine will be tipping right forward at this point so wouldn't surprise me if that's why it's jumping out of drive.

To test that theory I'd put it in drive until it engages then have someone pull the engine forward to see of it looses drive again. Just don't take your foot off the brake of its someone you like

Or, rather than mowing someone down, fix the engine steadies and see if the problem goes away

"just don't take your foot off the brake"
Don't you think it'd be difficult mowing someone down with the brakes on?

[Captain Mainwaring]

I have a friend with a pit in his garage. Would this make things easier, or shall I just use ramps and a few jacks? Actually it could be a good time to inspect the entire exhaust area.

 

I'll make a tick list of parts as I check and hit minispares on saturday.

CHECKLIST:

 

- Top Steady (remove rubber bushes. Buy new poly one piece bushes)
- Bottom Steady (replace bushes or buy one if steady isn't there)

- Downpipe/manifold clamp (remove clamp, clean old corroded sealer, buy new exhaust sealer + exhaust heat tape, refit clamp)
- Lower downpipe clamp + bracket (check if it is there. If not, buy new one and fit as photo above)

- Check exhaust hangers (buy new and replace if rusty and corroded)
- Oil change (buy extra can 20/50 and drip tray. Drain existing. Refill)
- Check spark plugs for dark matter and signs of running rich

- Check carb dashpot as per another forum ''On SU carbs, there's a small lifting pin at one side near the back of the dashpot, with a spring on it. If you push that up, it will eventually hit the carb piston, letting air in. If it's rich, the engine speed will pick up, if it's lean it will fade away. If it's set right it shouldn't change much at all''

 

 

NON-ESSENTIAL PARTS

 

- Rear quarter window seal (opening type)

QUESTIONS:

1) When I clean the downpipe clamp connection to the maniflow, is exhaust sealer and the clamp sufficient? I was thinking of sealing it, then using some heat tape over the top, and then the clamp, just to be extra tight.

 

2) Assuming I let the oil drain until it stops dripping, there will still be (according to sources) 1l or so of oil still swirling around parts. How much oil should I expect to be topping it up to? Obviously by checking the max/min levels and measuring how much came out and adding the same, or more But the dipstick barely did anything different when I topped it up before, so its hard to tell if I am flooding it or not.

3) With all that done, should I leave the car ticking over for a bit to settle the new oil, or actuall drive it continuously for half hour or so?

4) Can I expect the exhaust to stop running spluttery and rich right away? Or is this another ballgame where I need to next think about the carb and timing settings etc.

 

 

Change the filter too....pointless otherwise. 

Just drive it normally, a good run wouldn't hurt though.

 

Personally I don't like slapping gunge around exhaust joints - a sleeve joint should seal easily, as should a flange joint with a good gasket.

Edited by Captain Mainwaring, 21 June 2013 - 12:52 AM.

[danm]

Oh yes, oil filter too, I will add that now.

The concern I have with sealing the exhaust is that I think the movement and lack of steadies/brackets has mildly deformed the shape, so the sleeve isn't as snug as I'd like.

Perhaps just tape it and clamp shut instead of gunge sealer? It looks like the previous owner sealed it and its all crusted off. I'll be rubbing this down lightly first.

 

Probably why the clamp isn't grasping it as tight as it should as well from the junk.

Edited by danm, 21 June 2013 - 09:07 AM.

[Captain Mainwaring]

Oh yes, oil filter too, I will add that now.

The concern I have with sealing the exhaust is that I think the movement and lack of steadies/brackets has mildly deformed the shape, so the sleeve isn't as snug as I'd like.

Perhaps just tape it and clamp shut instead of gunge sealer? It looks like the previous owner sealed it and its all crusted off. I'll be rubbing this down lightly first.

 

Probably why the clamp isn't grasping it as tight as it should as well from the junk.

 

Your local exhaust guy might wack his mandrel up it for the price of a pint.....

[danm]

Got all the bits on Saturday morning, dragged the poor girlfriend with me and as a compromise went clothes shopping for the afternoon.

 

Only thing they didn't have was an exhaust clip, and wouldn't do for the forseeable future! Doh!

Didn't manage to get anything fitted yet either, but am going to have a go tonight.

 

Will probably leave the gearbox to drip drain overnight to get as much out as possible. Fingers crossed.

[silve1999]

good luck dude :)

[danm]

Just thinking... (not my photo)

 

 

I'll be draining the oil out and fitting both a gearbox steady and a downpipe bracket/clip before I clean through and refill again.

 

Will undoing those bolts affect the gasket seal shown at all? Provided I undo and redo one at a time, I really hope the thing doesn't fly off or start leaking!

 

[Mighty made]

Should be OK. I think that you need to undo two bolts to fit the steady kit (the other bolts will hold on the end plate).

 

You should get away without any more oil leaks as long as you torque up the bolts correctly.

 

The exhaust clamp attaches to a bracket running from the diff housing, Leave it loose until last, once you have got the exhaust mountings checked and tightened the engine steady on, and the downpipe clamp in place.

 

That wa, you can reduce the strain on the bracket and the exhaust alignment.

[danm]

Top work, picked up a second hand lower steady, bracket and a pack of new orange bushes for 6.50. Bargain!

 

Still hunting the downpipe clip.

[Mighty made]

http://www.minisport...LAMP_&_BAR.html

This is the two piece type, rather than teh original one with the many holes in it. 

 

Just check the diameter of the exhaust, as they come in different sizes.

 

If you wrap a piece of paper around the pipe  to measure the circumference: 120mm = 1 1/2" pipe, 130mm 1 5/8" pipe

 

Is the bracket still on the gearbox/diff for you to attach it to?

[silve1999]

hey danm how'd it go?

[danm]

Only just got the time to take a proper look last night.

 

Look at the state of the bushes! Lol, explains a lot.

 

[silve1999]

wow! I think the auto's put more strain on the upper tie bar than manuals

 

You can see mine on my project page below......

[danm]

I think mine just made itself exponentially worse as not only were the bushes worn on top, but there's no other steady below.

 

Hoping to actually fit the new ones tonight and get a lower steady in. The nut and bolt to the back is a right bugger, I can't undo it whatsoever. Soaking in WD40 overnight to see if it loosens up.

[silve1999]

I had to use a 6 sided socket and extension and a big bar