36 replies to this topic

[KernowCooper]

Ah I see what you mean.. hmm well I've got a new alternator on the way, one it's all replaced maybe I'll see about replacing the rectifier in the old one :)

Easy job to do?

Yes mate back cover off and undo 1 nut and unsolder a couple of wires of the rectifier and away you go, refit is reverse the strip = 1 repaired alternator

Edited by KernowCooper, 16 July 2013 - 04:43 PM.

[Captain Mainwaring]

 

No need for science, The force is within me. Just remove the bulb from your dash and you can expect the alternator not to charge due to no excitement. inject 12v to the small terminal and excitement will happen and the alternator will load the engine slightly.

 

I am not going to enter into an argument here, but you supplied enough science in your own comment.

 

 

Brown with a yellow trace is the "IND" terminal and it will have 12V on it at all times unless the bulb has failed - it only provides the indicator feedback and the initial excitation voltage 

 

 

 

Must be an echo in here - I though I just said that. So what you're really saying is that "injecting" 12V into the IND terminal only actually does anything if the bulb has failed/no initial excitation current, and even then there may not be a noticeable difference?

 

Ya OK. I'll stick to fault finding using a meter.

 

Actually sometimes there is every need for science.

[Captain Mainwaring]

Yes sir, sorry sir! 

 

I guess I missed the obvious first thing, but last night was the first time I had time to properly check everything over! I'd just whipped the battery out to charge it, and run a quick voltage test in the morning before I headed out to work.

 

A couple of the contacts in the alternator look a little broken, so would rather replace now and do it properly. 

 

Thanks!!

 

 

Well at least you won't have to take the plugs out to check the belt tension.....wakakakakakakak....that's a real classic bit of advice.

[Doovydoo]

Well! 

Here was the old alternator plug..

 

 

And some corroded connectors...

 

 

 

 

 

Replaced with a new plug + connectors, and a new alternator for good measure!

 

 

 

 

I am now getting 14v+ at the battery when engine idling, with heater, lights and radio on. At around 14.26 at idle without any other drain. Fixed? I think (read: hope) so..!!

[Captain Mainwaring]

Like the platted leads.

[jaydee]

Side note, cylinder 1 is conventionally the closest to the rad, you put the markings the wrong way round

[Doovydoo]

Like the platted leads.

 

Saves a lot of trouble.. thanks

 

Side note, cylinder 1 is conventionally the closest to the rad, you put the markings the wrong way round

 

I will keep it in mind. Didn't know that! :)