
Pre-Verto Clutch Not Disengaging.....going Mad! Need Help Fast!
#1
Posted 09 July 2013 - 06:16 PM
Adjusted it per http://www.7ent.com/...adjustment.html
The arm did not move much at all with the 7/16 bolt all the way in. Did some more research and seen
http://www.7ent.com/...do-i-check.html
I removed the starter and seen the pressure plate move, but the gearbox is still engaged (tried pushing the car in gear and clutch engages). I was reading about removing some of the inside if the flywheel.
Anyone done this and have any tips? Also, any other solutions?
On a side note, the car does roll fine with pushing and not in gear.
#2
Posted 09 July 2013 - 06:19 PM
#3
Posted 09 July 2013 - 06:30 PM
With the overthrow nut & locknut undone and wound well clear of the clutch cover, and with the clutch arm stop bolt set to a gap of 0.015" to 0.020", during full depression of the clutch pedal the top of the clutch arm must move a minimum of 0.50". If this is not happening there is a problem with either the clutch hydraulics or the clutch pedal mechanism.
#4
Posted 09 July 2013 - 06:31 PM
#5
Posted 09 July 2013 - 06:49 PM
Stock flywheel from what I can tell...I am thinking the c-washer is getting jammed...I really do not want to pull the clutch again unless that's the only way....
#6
Posted 09 July 2013 - 07:09 PM
It's unlikely to be the C-washer as once the flywheel is on it can't move really.
It could be the primary gear seized on the crankshaft and if you have fitted new primary gear bushes of the latest type they can seize if there is insufficient running clearance and I had that happen a while back.
The other issue could be excessive crankshaft end float. You might want to measure the end float.
#7
Posted 09 July 2013 - 07:28 PM
Plunger moves fine and I can see the pressure plate moving. When I had the flywheel off the other day, the primary gear moved fine with no issues. Also, it did not move "excessive." I guess I will have to find some feeler gauges to check the float. Just did not want to pull the flywheel...again...I am starting to become a professional. Also, almost close to just changing it from a pre-verto to a verto!!
#8
Posted 09 July 2013 - 08:42 PM
Check the ball on the bottom of the clutch arm. I had one snap off once and another time one was very worn. Can you confirm that the plunger is moving inwards.It's unlikely to be the C-washer as once the flywheel is on it can't move really.It could be the primary gear seized on the crankshaft and if you have fitted new primary gear bushes of the latest type they can seize if there is insufficient running clearance and I had that happen a while back.The other issue could be excessive crankshaft end float. You might want to measure the end float.
Ok...what happens if the diaphram is shimmed to much?
#9
Posted 09 July 2013 - 10:18 PM
#10
Posted 09 July 2013 - 11:03 PM
#11
Posted 09 July 2013 - 11:21 PM
they are flat....but yeah, just as when they came out...gonna take it to a professional if it was slipping it would be easier to figure out, but everything I can see moves how it should, but won't disengage...sometimes you just have to throw the towel in...if someone was close and was able to help me fix it, I can pay with beer :)
#12
Posted 10 July 2013 - 12:04 AM
Friction plate the right way round & sliding freely on the primary gear?
Balance,"A", marks all matched up?
Release bearing thrust plate the right way round in the pressure plate?
#13
Posted 10 July 2013 - 11:16 AM
#14
Posted 10 July 2013 - 11:42 AM
With the engine running, you should be able to hear the release bearing spin when it makes contact. Adjust the return stop out to there, or even a bit further, to ensure the release mechanism has plenty of push. If you find you can cause the revs to drop, by pushing against the thrust bearings, you can be sure it's not the release mechanism that's the problem!
#15
Posted 10 July 2013 - 09:26 PM
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