6 replies to this topic

[tom1]

Hi, I have got to change my gear linkage from cast remote to rod. I have done this before but it was not the best, have any of you done this and made it look good or are there any aftermarket bits that do a good job ? Any pic's would be good if only of the standard setup and anything really fancy would be a bonus. 

[Artful Dodger]

You must have to change the whole gearbox, the linkage inside the box is completely different!

Why do you have to change? Remote change boxes are better, the casing works as a awsome engine steady

[tom1]

Interesting ,did not know that the cast remote helps to steady the engine.   I have two gearboxes both rod change, this is a build from a ex hill climbing shell and bits I have got lying around, just trying to get it all together.

[Cooperman]

The cast aluminium alloy gear-change housing is the very best ever used on the Mini. There used to be a special rear mounting in case the standard mounting breaks on a  rough rally.

[tom1]

So the extra 1.5 KG, is a good tradeoff for the extra sterbillerty? Which do you think, gives a better change in standard form (without a quick shift)?

[Artful Dodger]

I find that the chafe is a lot more positive, the throw is not much at all and it does stabilise the engine a hell of a lot. I have just bolted one in, and the engine with just the engine mounts and gearbox extension bolted on I couldn't for the life of me rock the engine. You would only need the top steady after that as re enforcement. Saves using other engine steadys

Also, the way the boxes are build and the way the selector system works it can take a lot more punishment, the rod change box selector system is a lot more delicate.


So, if you are building a racig car and you will have the engine out every other race and don't mid rebuilding the selector system or replacing bushes in the engine steadys, go rod change, it's lighter. But if the engine will be in there for a long period, go remote. 100%

[A-Cell]

Back in the day, rallying, the cast remote did aid the engine steady, however not having good normal steady, there was a good chance of breaking the diff housing casting. Therefore I would recommend for a unit with lots of torque the use of the extra lower steadies as well.