7 replies to this topic

[The Fat Leodensian]

So, I want to go down to a 10 inch wheel setup. (we all know why)

Ive got 2 almost new cooper S hub assemblies sitting on my 79 special that im not using (The spesh is sitting garaged at the mo). I had these professionally fitted to the spesh because i wanted to convert to Discs without changing the wheels.

If i decide to borrow these for my 88 city, is it just a case of removing the entire hub at the ball joints, track rod ends and tie bars? then removing the inner CV from the driveshafts and sliding the whole assembly with drive shaft out as one?

If this is possible with my socket set and my ball joint splitters, is it a straight swap? Are the top and bottom arms the same parts? Will my standard rack work on the longer steering arms?

I'm going to attempt this tomorow depending on what advice i may get

Cheers peeps.

Al

[miniboo]

do u have discs on the 88 at the moment?

if you do then all you need to do is swap the discs and calipers assuming that they are cooper s discs and calipers.

i dont think there is any need to swap the whole hub aswell as long as it is already discs on the front.

[Jammy]

If they are Cooper S, and your changing the hubs and CVs I believe you'll need to use the S driveshafts as well?

[The Fat Leodensian]

do u have discs on the 88 at the moment?

if you do then all you need to do is swap the discs and calipers assuming that they are cooper s discs and calipers.

i dont think there is any need to swap the whole hub aswell as long as it is already discs on the front.

Yes its on the 8.4 disc set up. Changing the discs means i have to get the big castlated nut thingy off dosn't it?
I havn't got a socket that big or a big bar. (I could just go buy a socket though Also ive got play in 2 of my existing ball joints where-as the ones on the cooper s setup are spot on.(and the wheel bearings are almost new)

Al

[Dan]

If you don't want to have to split the disc assembly then yes you can just swap the whole hub over. It's probably easier to get the driveshaft out of the CV joint than the pot joint as that end is notoriously difficult to split. AFAIK the steering arms are the same length, it's just that the genuine Cooper S ones are stronger (a much larger forging). In either case they will work with your rack. Obviously the tracking will change.

[The Fat Leodensian]

If you don't want to have to split the disc assembly then yes you can just swap the whole hub over. It's probably easier to get the driveshaft out of the CV joint than the pot joint as that end is notoriously difficult to split. AFAIK the steering arms are the same length, it's just that the genuine Cooper S ones are stronger (a much larger forging). In either case they will work with your rack. Obviously the tracking will change.

Yes, Its a shame that the pot joints dont fit throught the holes in the subframe. Then it would be an easier job.
The last time i removed the whole hub assembly from a mini it was on a scrapper in a sorry state. it only the casting and arm that i wanted so i wasn't all that bothered about the joints. If i remember right i simply cut the rubber boot of the pot joint and the shaft just pulled out of the pot. Is this not normally that easy? I was just going to remove the shaft from the pot and then fit new boots on re-assembly.

No good?

Al

[Dan]

Everyone seems to think that.....

The inner member of the pot joint is NOT part of the driveshaft. When you cut the boot you get the inner member of the pot joint out of the outer, still fixed to the driveshaft. You'll recognise it if you've done it before, it's the large star shaped steel lobe fitted to the shaft. The inner and outer members of any given pot joint are a matched pair and should not be mixed and matched from car to car as a simple bodgey way of swapping driveshafts over, especially if they aren't brand new as these parts wear into each other like any other moving part does. The drive shaft just ends in a spline and lock ring which engages into the pot joint inner member. It's much easier to seperate the CV joint from the shaft than to get the pot joint inner member off of the shaft.

[The Fat Leodensian]

Ah!

Cheers Dan. Now that you mention it i do remember a ball race type thing came out on the end of the shaft.

I shall go consult the Haynes on seperation at the hub end of the shafts. I'll definately have to use the S driveshafts though, so it looks like a bigger job then i thought 'because i'll have to seperate and re-assemble 4 driveshafts (i'm swapping rather than leaving the /79 on bricks as i need to push it around)

I'll let you know how i get on

Ta

Alan

(I may decide it is easier just to remove the 'S' calipers and get minifixit to fit them plus new 'S' discs and sort my existing ball joints) hmmmm, might be pricey though