31 replies to this topic

[jaydee]

To be honest it does sound you have a problem with the bypass hose.

Did you fit one of those 'concertina hoses'?

If so, never use them again, they're meant to be a roadside repair, where ease of fitment is a necessity, but dont expect a concertina robbuer hose to last more than 500 miles.

Use some proper heater hose on the bypass.

Edited by jaydee, 19 September 2013 - 12:15 PM.

[WillsMini]

Sounds like the water has gone if that was leaking, usual symptom.

I'm not an expert but have removed a few times over last couple of weeks! From memory.....

 

1. Loosen alternator to release belt.

2. Remove top rad bracket. This also releases the stat housing if you want to replace the stat.

3. Remove rad hoses. Top is easy, lower can be a ******* to reach.

4. Remove 4 bolts that hold the fan cowling, lower rear can be tricky to get at.. I think this releases the rad. May be easier to do this before the lower hose to give you more room.

5. Rad should now lift out.

6. Remove lower fan cowling bolt. Can be accessed easier by removing grille. Its right underneath the cowling. Lift out the cowling.

7. Remove fan blades. 4 bolts at the centre.

This gives access to the water pump. I didn't remove mine so that bit's up to you.

While in bits take the oppurtunity to flush the system as described above.

Use a little grease or vaseline on fittings to make the it easier to refit hoses.

Refill with water to check working then drain and refill with correct mix of water and anti-freeze.

 

I may have missed a bolt or two but that's about it. Takes a bout an hour to strip and gets easier each time!

[WillsMini]

Meant water pump at the start. Should proof read long posts!!!

[mini_zinger]

Thank you guys for all your help so far.

 

Jaydee- no i dont know which one it is as I have never changed it either.

 

WillsMini- i will give that a try, totally a 1st timer for me so bit nervous, and not sure if i have the correct tools. but will find out when i get started.

 

Will let you know how it goes

 

Plan is to replace the Thermostat and the water pump to be on the safe side.

 

I bought the car about 3 weeks ago.

 

Thank you once again everyone :)

 

The water was very rusty as it was not filled with antifreeze etc hence something must have rusted and given up or broken and blocked something.

 

I just hope the head gasket is safe, how can I confirm the head gasket is OK, i read a few forums and they say to check water in oil or oil in water, any other idea will be good for a newbee like me.

[seancv1]

If they're is water in the oil it will have emulsified and there will be a mustardy type substance in the rocker cover perhaps , do you have a Haynes manual strongly reccomend the purchase if you don't

[seancv1]

Recommend *

[WillsMini]

You will find this mustardy type stuff on dipstick, in rad cap, anywhere oil or water go if gasket has blown.
Rusty water in cooling system is normal if it hasn't been drained for a while.
Mini mad is right, get a Haynes manual.

[mini_zinger]

Thank you heaps guys :)

 

luckily the head gasket was fine  

 

Yes I will look for and get that Haynes manual.

 

My questions are underlined

 

I managed to change the water pump and the thermostat. It was the waterpump that had given up, as I could see water trail and rust stain under the waterpump, where there is a hole. I am not sure what that hole is for, but someone told me it was there to kind of let us know that the water pump needs to be replaced.

 

The thermostat was very rusty, it was stuck, I had to use a screw driver to lift it up.

 

After I took the radiator and everything out, it became obvious that the water pump was leaking for a while, as there were lot of rusty stain around the place below the water pump. As I only bought the car a few weeks ago, i must agree i did not check it properly :)

 

The bypass hose was OK so I did not change that.

 

 

Only issue now is, after I have fitted everything back, the car is miss firing when I accelerate to more than 50 mph, I am not sure why. I will start troubleshooting, thinking of starting from the condensor --> ignition coil --> spark plugs. Does not miss fire on idle or when driving at speed lower then 50 mph.

 

could it be that i while i was cleaning, water has gone into some place that it shouldnt have? I was very careful though to ensure that water stayed away from ignition coil, distributor etc.

 

But your advise will be highly appreciated as I am not sure of where to start.

 

Once again thank you heaps everyone for your help and guidance as this was the most extensive mechanical work that I have ever done. Feels great :)

 

You guys rock

 

For anyone else who may ever need to do this here is how it went for me:

taking all old stuff out: 1hr
cleaning all the rust (radiator, engine block, hoses, thermostat seat, and the area around there, e.g chassy etc) = 3hrs

putting new parts and all other stuff back: 1.5hrs

now came the flushing part, since I flushed it 5 -7 times before i put the antifreeze back in (used radiator flush once though): 2.5hrs

 

Thank you.

[jaydee]

If its the ingition, it will missfire at anything above 2500-3000 rpm, even in second gear, and not only above 50mph

If it holds back only at higher speed, then its more likely to be out of tune, or to have something like a clog in the air filter, the jet in the carb or the fuel filter (if its got one fitted)

[sonikk4]

Pretty much as Jaydee has said but as you have only just bought the car was it like thus before? If not then you may has disturbed something.

If the car is running points check theses along with the ignition leads rotor arm and cap. Have a look at the plugs as well and make sure they are gapped correctly along with the points if fitted. If you have points fitted you wish to think about converting to electronic ignition, this is a quite a cheap conversion as well.

Do you know if the fuel in the tank is fresh or old??

[mini_zinger]

thank you guys, went home after work yesetrday, mini was parked at home for whole day.

 

Took mini for a drive and it did not miss fire, so I am thinking it was either water some where that dried up or some cable had come loose, as i had pressed on all the cables to ensure they were seated properly.

 

Pheww, thankfully it was not the HG as some forum pages suggested.

 

One things I had noticed, when i bought this mini was that if the car went over a bump or i left the clutch in such a way that it gave the car a bit of 'shake', engine will start missing the beat, so i would have to stop and press on all the plug cables and it would then fix the issue. Why could be causing this?

 

The fuel tank seems to be the original one.

 

can we upload pics and sound files on this forum?

[jaydee]

Yes you can upload pics and videos

pressing the plug cables to make them work, means they need a bit of TLC, what are the plugs giving problems, spark plugs or coil connections?

[sonikk4]

Check the engine steadies to see if they are ok. If they are badly worn it will allow the engine to move which can cause issues.

[mini_zinger]

I would press both the ends.

 

I will check the steadies, which i think you mean are the engine mount bushings and the arm bushings that hold the engine?

 

this weekend if the weather permits I will take some pics of my mini and put it up

[mini_zinger]

need your guys help in choosing the haynes manual, which one of these would you suggest:

http://www.trademe.c...n-643188734.htm

 

http://www.trademe.c...n-643844008.htm

 

Also let me know if these are not the ones, then which one should I get? My mini is 1978.

 

Year: 1978 Make: LEYLAND Model: MINI Submodel: 1000 Main Colour: Blue VIN: 7AT0B103X10083768     Engine No: 99H791P256214 Chassis: NOTESN.N.8015869N Vehicle Type: Passenger Car/Van Body Style: Hatchback Seats: 4 CC rating: 998cc Fuel Type: Petrol Assembly Type: Unknown Country of Origin: United Kingdom

 

 

Thank you :)