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Driveshaft Rubbing On Lower Arm Bolt


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#1 Cerberus

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 04:54 PM

As the title says my drivers side driveshaft rubs on the lower arm bolt (the bendy bit) when the suspension is at full droop.

 

It's done this since I've had the car I think, can't remember if it did it before I changed the knackered shocks for Gaz ones.

It's got all rebound/bump stops in, and they're all only about 2 years old, the shocks and cones are all 2 years old too.

 

Has anyone else experienced this?  Is it normal, I'm guessing probably not, :D.


Edited by Cerberus, 29 August 2013 - 04:54 PM.


#2 Dan

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 05:05 PM

  No, definitely not.  Not got Metro hubs in have you?  I can't remember if the extra height in them is above the shaft or below though.



#3 Cerberus

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 09:33 PM

Nope, standard mini hubs.



#4 petey81

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 09:42 PM

The lower arm pin is not straight so make sure the end of it lines up with the flat markings on the subframe.

#5 tiger99

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 09:42 PM

Possibly if your suspension is at normal ride height,  your engine mounts may be sagging, or if you have adjustable engine steadies, they may be set wrong, tipping the engine backwards so the driveshafts are lower than normal.

 

The dampers have nothing to do with it as they don't control ride height. But if it is low, suspect worn knuckle joints. If in doubt change them, before the balls wear through and start to damage the upper arms. Knuckles are fairly cheap.



#6 minisprint

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 10:03 PM

Seen this before sure it's ok!

#7 Cerberus

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Posted 30 August 2013 - 05:27 PM

The lower arm pin is not straight so make sure the end of it lines up with the flat markings on the subframe.

 

Yeah, it's the bendy bit it's rubbing on, the bit that's been designed to allow the driveshaft to pass over it by the looks of it, :D, also the pin wouldn't fit properly if you didn't align the flats, so yeah, not that, :D

 

Possibly if your suspension is at normal ride height,  your engine mounts may be sagging, or if you have adjustable engine steadies, they may be set wrong, tipping the engine backwards so the driveshafts are lower than normal.

 

The dampers have nothing to do with it as they don't control ride height. But if it is low, suspect worn knuckle joints. If in doubt change them, before the balls wear through and start to damage the upper arms. Knuckles are fairly cheap.

 

Could be engine mounts, no idea if they've ever been changed, steadies should be okay as one was replaced about 2-3 years ago and still looks ok, and there's no movement in the engine front to back that I can detect.

 

Ride height is fine, knuckles were fine when I fitted the Hi-Los and new cones.  But my subframe mounts are old and worn, and there's alot of movement in the subframe mounts (when you turn the wheel while stationary, the subby moves quite a bit.  Would like to get solid mounts fitted, but having to get the strengthening bits fitted to the floor is what's stopped me so far.



#8 tiger99

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Posted 31 August 2013 - 02:36 PM

Your subframe mounts are not causing the driveshaft problem, because the engine sits on the subframe, not the shell. But I do reccomend that you change them asap, as they must really be ruining the handling. If you are not in a position to fit a solid kit, use standard rubbers for now. Poly are useless here, and as you may know, you must never mix them or bad things, like shell cracking, will occur.

 

I do recommend that you try a new pair of engine mounts to see if they solve your driveshaft problem. They should not be terribly expensive, but you will need some patience to fit them, as they are a bit awkward. I prefer to jack the engine and take them both off, fit the clutch end mount first, and finish with the radiator end, as there is more room at that end to persuade the last two bolts into their holes. They never line up properly, because the new mounts try to make the engine sit too high at first, and are too wide to fit between the sloping subframe faces without persuasion. Having the grille and radiator out helps immensely, but it can be done without.

 

I always weld steel self-locking nuts (the Philidas nuts used on early drive shaft U bolts are ideal) to the mounts prior to fitting. If you are quick, you don't damage the rubber, and it means that the bolts go in from underneath, which is easier. Using Philidas nuts, the bolts will not work loose and fall out. I just don't have the patience to fit those bolts from above, unless the entire engine and subframe is out of the car (as it was in the factory when they were fitted that way).



#9 Cerberus

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Posted 31 August 2013 - 03:23 PM

Yeah, I'm going to change the subby mounts soon, hopefully it might solve my braking vibration problem too which would be nice.

 

We've got an engine crane too, so that should hopefully make holding the engine up a bit easier, if we can get it bolted on anywhere.

 

 

Been thinking of getting one or two silicone hoses too and flushing the coolant as it's due a good clean out, so would be good to do all the mounts at the same time.

 

 

What are the best subby mounts to use?  I've seen some of the genuine ones are a ridiculous £30 each, are these worth getting over the cheaper non-gen ones?   Might also see if I can find somewhere to weld some reinforcing plates on and then I can just solid mount it.



#10 tiger99

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Posted 31 August 2013 - 06:55 PM

Well, Somerford are showing a full mount kit SKF003 (6 mounts plus nuts & bolts etc) at £46.04 including VAT, so if anyone wants to charge you much more, like £30 each, they are ripping you off. I would be inclined to use genuine parts where possible.

 

Your engine crane will help with doing the engine mounts, although it can be done with a trolley jack and block of wood to protect the sump.



#11 Cerberus

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Posted 31 August 2013 - 09:40 PM

It was the minispares ones at £30 each, these.

Their non gen ones are only £3, :D

 

 

Somerfords looks very good value when you add up the bits on minispares.



#12 Tomfoolery

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Posted 31 August 2013 - 09:58 PM

I've got the same problem as you Cerberus. When I put the front of the car up on axle stands the drive shafts rub on the lower arm bolt. I thought this was normal so I guess I need to think again. 



#13 Rob Gavin

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Posted 01 September 2013 - 08:20 AM

Are the rebound rubbers under the top arm in good order/ actually there? The rubbers can regularly drop off the mounting plate or deteriorate and allow the problem you have.

As already pointed out, the engine mounts could also cause a similar problem, under certain circumstances.

All assuming you are running a manual frame and manual engine?

#14 Cerberus

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Posted 01 September 2013 - 10:43 AM

Yeah it's a manual.

 

Rebound buffers are present, and not too old, but they do get very squished when the car is jacked up.

 

 

@Tomfoolery

 

Mine is only on the bolt on the drivers side, passenger side is fine.

 

Mine is also an Italian job, presume from your avatar that you've got one too?  Maybe it's a feature of them, :D :D



#15 Tomfoolery

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Posted 01 September 2013 - 11:02 AM

Yes I've also got an Italian Job which is all standard. The rebound rubbers are a bit hammered so perhaps they're allowing the suspension to drop a bit further than its supposed to like Rob suggests. Quick, easy and cheap to replace so worth a try...






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