6 replies to this topic

[smudger068]

I originally bought the car with coilovers fitted
But it must of spent most of its life on the bumpstops
So I stiffened the spring rate, which with after bit of thinking, I still think they are too soft
Anyway to get the vehicle atleast somewere low enough I am pretty much on the bumpstops on the rear and about half an inch of travel on the front. That's not even with the lower arms parrellel which is ideal

Now my questions are:
- anyone had any experience with this?
- How many of you on track take corners on the bump stops? Even with standard suspension?
- or just any eexperience advice
Thank you

[Cooperman]

Coil-overs or replacement of the rubber springs with coils can be good for the track so long as the spring rate is very high whilst still having sufficient travel to avoid the spring becoming coil-bound.
For track/race work, there will not be much suspension travel as tracks are very smooth. So the correct springs for track use will be entirely unsuitable for any sort of normal road use due to the fact that roads have bumps.
That is why the rubber cone springs are so good. They are true 'rising-rate' springs and the competition ones are stiff near full bump, but still softer at normal suspension position.
Really good track cars are very poor on normal roads as the suspension requirements are a real contradiction, which can cause problems. So, if a car is set up for the track, then it needs to be driven more gently on the roads.

[adamg1380]

I don't have coilovers, but I do run my car stiff for the track. It's not even that low (I've left it where John at Minimaster put it as he really knew what he was doing), from experience with other cars I think you really don't want to be hitting the bump stops as you turn in, the car will suddenly go stiff on one corner and that won't feel good.

 

If you do want to run the car on the road you might need to compromise on ride height, you can get very good handling without being very low. If you're only using the car on track, stiffen it up and keep it off the bump stops that way.

 

I run mine on yellow dot rubber cones and I wouldn't want to drive it to work every day, but it's OK on the road for occasional outings. As Cooperman says, it's hard to get a good track setup that is comfy to drive on the road, and probably impossible unless you're near normal ride height and running something at least as stiff as the red dot rubber cones are.

 

Out of interest, where are you getting your target ride height from? Most minis at sprints and hillclimbs look about the same as mine, which (from memory) is only just under normal height at the front and about an inch down at the back - I havn't changed that since it was on red dot cones though, when it did have a bit of body roll, but that's where it was put for track work.

[fwdracer]

Modify the front subframe upper bumpstop by reprofiling. Cut 1/2" off and reform radius edge. This even on mildly lowered cars.

[smudger068]

Hi Guys

First of all thanks for the replies.

I going to have to make some cups up to change to 2.25 or 2.5 id springs on the front (Fabrication is not an issue) and make them fit as I am on 650lb springs at the front and 300lb springs on the rear this is still way to soft

So my plan is to put the 650lb springs on the back and almost run atleast a 1000lb on the front or dependant on what I can get my hands on and go from there.

My ride height leaves me with a good inch and half if not two inchs of damper travel and I am still using bump stops on the damper on the track

 

I have removed the standard dampers already

 

It just all came from the fact I was watching a lot of various mini racing and there travel seems to be more or less non existent! 

 

Thanks again

Edited by smudger068, 31 October 2013 - 08:13 PM.

[Ivor Badger]

Why do you require such a high rear spring rate?  When first used somewhere around 130 was the norm. I was discussing spring rates on current MG championship cars and the one we were standing beside claimed to have 600 rear springs on it, but it would hardly move if you opened the door and stood on the sill.

[smudger068]

Because it is still using the bump stops and weight transfers to the rear like a sod half way through the corner (when back on the power)
Need so high at the front due to such a daft motion ratio.
So ideally in the end I get about 250 front 650 rear which is 2:1 ratio of what im close to being after
Also its what I have to use plus what I can afford to buy
Plus most during racing the back doesn't move so trying to get close to that with what I got

Edited by smudger068, 01 November 2013 - 04:58 PM.