9 replies to this topic

[Neilos]

Just had an MOT and my mini passed, but as an advisory notice there was slight rust coming through on the rear subframe. How easy is it to replace the rear subframe yourself? Do you need special tools...etc? cheers

[dklawson]

There are no special tools but you should plan your work well in advance and apply penetrating oil to all the mounting bolts as long in advance as possible. This assumes you have a good spot to perform the repairs, a couple of good jacks, jack stands and the like. There are a lot of steps involved so I won't post them here but I'm sure you'll find the process described in previous threads.

[minimadjonesy]

As dklawson states, make sure you use lots of penetrating oil as it's a reall pain to drill out broken studs! Then all you need are, a couple of 13mm sockets, a 13mm spanner, axle stands, a 10mm spanner (for handbrake cable), a decent jack and plenty of patience! You will also need a spanner for the top shock mounts and make sure your petrol tank is empty as you have to move it to get to the passenger side mounts!

[Neilos]

I dont know all that much about mechanics, so would a novice like me be able to do it easy enough? If not are there any preps i can do before taking it to the garage to be done?

Along with buying a new subframe, what else will i need? Things like mounts, bolts...etc???

[Guess-Works.com]

tut tut MMJ.... 13mm, 10mm you should be ashamed of yourself

use imperial tools !

The rear subframe, is probably one of the easiest things to change on a mini, when you do get a new one, take the time to protect it well, I paint them witha couple of decent coats of hammerite, others get the power coated, but also consider the items which you are going to reuse from your existing setup, trailing arms etc... for the cost of exchange units (about 30 pounds each), it's sometimes worth replaceing them at the same time..

[minimadjonesy]

I know GW but I'm talking in the Language of the young mini owner here! If I said 1/2 inch they'd go "Eh????"

And it is an easy enought job for a novice!

OOOOH! forgot that you'd need a 7/16th brakepipe spanner too! (thin that's the right size!! happy now GW??)

[Guess-Works.com]

[Big_Adam]

what wrong with 13mm spanner. then again i don't know imperial. also the last imperial spanner i used on my mini it ate it and i never got it back.

damn hungry mini. 3rd spanner its eaten.

[dklawson]

What's wrong with 13mm? Well since you think metric...
13mm is 0.3mm bigger than 1/2" so that wrench will want to start and round the corners of the bolt. 10mm is even worse on a 3/8" bolt as it's almost 0.5mm too big on a smaller head.

I remember bigger fasteners on subframes than 3/8" and 1/2". I would have thought (from memory... don't quote me) that the main bolts were 9/16" AF and those are just the ones holding it in place. Once you start tearing it down, the radius arm shafts are held on with some pretty big nuts (3/4"??? [which REALLY is 19mm]).

If you do decide to NOT do this yourself, use penetrating oil on all the fasteners in advance to help the mechanic. Before you take the car to them, drive it until it's almost out of gas so there's little to drain from the tank(s).

[pikey7]

You may end up having fun with the front bush pivot. It's a simple nut one side, but is a large flat head on the other and two holes to accept a pin spanner. I fount that if you screw two small bolts in the two holes (Either M6 or M5, I don't recall exactly) then you can put a large screwdriver, crowbar or other suitable piece of steel between the bolts to provent the pin turning. You may get lucky and the bolt may "sieze" in the subby preventing it from turning (and then tap it out with a hammer), but just in case.......

Either that, or you can get a pin spanner of course....