17 replies to this topic

[GreenMini17]

Just attempted to fire my new engine up (not built by myself i would like to state) and apart from not starting i have a rather large issue.

If i put my foot on the clutch pedal with the clutch fully depressed and attempt to crank the engine over, it wont. The starter just makes a buzzing noise and the engine almost sounds like its seized up. Its the older style clutch assembly with the long clutch arm (the correct term escapes me). Before i put the engine in the car i replaced the original clutch arm for the uprated minispares arm. I replaced the release bearing at the same time and i adjusted the clutch accordingly too.

Is this an adjustment problem or something much more serious?

[myredmini]

Sounds like it could be a crank endfloat problem. Possibly the tollerance is too tight. Engine gurus will be along shortly.

[Stevie W]

Hi,

Does it crank/turn-over without the clutch pedal down?

Cheers, Steve

[Jordie]

Sounds like clutch pressure is shoving the crank sideways.

 

Adjust the 2 nuts on the end of the clutch wok again. And try again.

[GreenMini17]

Hi,

Does it crank/turn-over without the clutch pedal down?

Cheers, Steve

Yes it does.

[GreenMini17]

Sounds like clutch pressure is shoving the crank sideways.
 
Adjust the 2 nuts on the end of the clutch wok again. And try again.

Lets hope so, adjust them to what though? I have adjusted them as per haynes manual.

[Jordie]

you have them loose, get assistant to press pedal, wind the inner nut in flush with case, ask assistant to unpress pedal and turn another flat or two.

 

Adjust a couple more flats if that doesnt work, but after that you will need to check the clutch disengages and you can still get gears.

[Stevie W]

Hi,

Double check the clutch adjustment before proceeding further as per the Haynes manual.

If there's no improvement, then it looks as though there's a crank thrust washer problem....either too little clearance as has already been suggested...or too much clearance allowing the clutch to push the crank sideways and lock the engine.

You can check for excessive endfloat by levering the crank pully forward with a pair of stout screwdrivers. Any visible or audible movement means a crank thrust washer issue!!

Cheers, Steve.

[GreenMini17]

Hi,

Double check the clutch adjustment before proceeding further as per the Haynes manual.

If there's no improvement, then it looks as though there's a crank thrust washer problem....either too little clearance as has already been suggested...or too much clearance allowing the clutch to push the crank sideways and lock the engine.

You can check for excessive endfloat by levering the crank pully forward with a pair of stout screwdrivers. Any visible or audible movement means a crank thrust washer issue!!

Cheers, Steve.

Thanks for your reply. How would one lever the crank pulley forward? By foward you mean towards the front of the car? That maybe impossible without dismantling the rad etc, its on a turbo engine and room is erm tight to say the least.

[Stevie W]

Hi,

Sorry, by "forward" I meant away from the front (crank pulley) end of the engine.

I didn't realise it was turbo!!

If you remove the radiator grill along the front of your car, you hould be able to get a stout, long shafted screwdriver behind the pulley. You could also try levering the pulley inwards as well in case the clutch has pushed the crank forward already.

You're looking for any "in/out" movement of the crank with respect to the crank pulley end of the engine.

Cheers, Steve.

Edited by Stevie W, 05 January 2014 - 06:19 PM.

[GreenMini17]

Ok im slowly understanding. So by your term "in/out" you mean make sure the crank pulley does not move out away from the timing case? I doubt this will as i have just last week replaced my trigger wheel and pulley and the old pulley was a right bastard to get off. Surely levering against the timing case will damage the case?

[Stevie W]

Yes thats bang-on!

Just be careful when levering against the timing chain cover, try and jam in a very thin piece of wood to prevent the screwdriver damaging the timing chain cover.

Until you've established whether you have an end-float problem it will be difficult to look at other reasons for your issue.

There is also another way to check for end-float providing the crankshaft isn't already pushed out.

Try to gently lever the pulley in towards the engine against the stronger lower engine mount/rad bracket. Then, whilst looking at the crank pulley, have an assistant fully depress the clutch pedal whilst you look at the pulley for any signs of movement....

Cheers, Steve.

[GreenMini17]

Thanks Steve, appreciate your help on this. I know it may sound silly, but could it be that the clutch plate has seized itself against the flywheel? The engine was stood for a period of time (dry stored i would like to add).

[Stevie W]

No probs...only too glad to try and help!
The clutch being rusted to the flywheel shouldn't cause the problem you are having.
In any case, any crankshaft end-float is not good whether the clutch plate is rusted to the flywheel or not!

I'm still very concerned that pressing down the clutch pedal can effectively stop the engine rotating. Try turning the engine over with clutch pedal up as you say it turns over ok like this, then gradually press the pedal down whilst still turning it over.
I would be interested to see if the engine gradually slows down as the pedal is pressed or whether it suddenly stops turning without warning!

Cheers, Steve. :)

[GreenMini17]

Also, some of the guys on turbo minis forum are saying it could be that due to the engine being new/unused it could be just the thrusts binding up and due to me having a heavy uprated clutch plate and the old style interia type starter motor, it wouldnt turn over with the clutch disengaged. Would anyone agree with this?