As it says in the title, how much time& effort would it take to de-seam the whole mini apart from the roof guttering ?

De-Seaming Mini ?
#1
Posted 15 January 2014 - 01:26 PM
#2
Posted 15 January 2014 - 01:29 PM
depends if you are getting a competent welder to do it or one with no experience. Which one are you?
#3
Posted 15 January 2014 - 01:31 PM
As it says in the title, how much time& effort would it take to de-seam the whole mini apart from the roof guttering ?
In short, lots!
You need to take your time welding because if you get it too hot the panels warp!
Mine are all double welded inside and out where I could get to both sides!
So, for example, the rear valance is seam welded where it meets the boot floor, then the boot floor is seam welded to the rear panel.
Mine was made slightly easier as I was replacing lots of panels.
I've probably spent 20 hours getting it all looking right.
Would I do it again?? Probably not, although it does look gorgeous!
#4
Posted 15 January 2014 - 01:50 PM
depends if you are getting a competent welder to do it or one with no experience. Which one are you?
I am fairly competent :) however i have got a friend who is a mechanic so he can do the welding for me just incase i get it wrong !
#6
Posted 15 January 2014 - 01:55 PM
As it says in the title, how much time& effort would it take to de-seam the whole mini apart from the roof guttering ?
In short, lots!
You need to take your time welding because if you get it too hot the panels warp!
Mine are all double welded inside and out where I could get to both sides!
So, for example, the rear valance is seam welded where it meets the boot floor, then the boot floor is seam welded to the rear panel.
Mine was made slightly easier as I was replacing lots of panels.
I've probably spent 20 hours getting it all looking right.
Would I do it again?? Probably not, although it does look gorgeous!
The seam on the front pillars abve the A panels you can only weld on the outside cant you ? you cant access it from inside if i can remember correctly ?
As with the de-seaming in general, did you just weld, and then grind it all back flush ? or use body filler to make it nice and smooth ?
#7
Posted 15 January 2014 - 01:56 PM
As it says in the title, how much time& effort would it take to de-seam the whole mini apart from the roof guttering ?
In short, lots!
You need to take your time welding because if you get it too hot the panels warp!
Mine are all double welded inside and out where I could get to both sides!
So, for example, the rear valance is seam welded where it meets the boot floor, then the boot floor is seam welded to the rear panel.
Mine was made slightly easier as I was replacing lots of panels.
I've probably spent 20 hours getting it all looking right.
Would I do it again?? Probably not, although it does look gorgeous!
The seam on the front pillars abve the A panels you can only weld on the outside cant you ? you cant access it from inside if i can remember correctly ?
As with the de-seaming in general, did you just weld, and then grind it all back flush ? or use body filler to make it nice and smooth ?
Yes you are correct, you can't access the inside of the A Post!
Weld, grind flush, check for holes, fill, sand back, fill, sand back!
#8
Posted 15 January 2014 - 02:07 PM
In what lengths should i cut the seam and then weld, then cut then weld and so on. I might start on the seam by the rear window tonight
#9
Posted 15 January 2014 - 02:16 PM
#10
Posted 15 January 2014 - 02:46 PM
if your in the UK remember to factor in the costs of the BIVA test and registering
#11
Posted 15 January 2014 - 05:10 PM
and then the insurance....
If you bend a de-seamed mini then it's pretty much end of life as they cost a fortune to repair in terms of man hours
#12
Posted 15 January 2014 - 10:05 PM
And the loss of value as most buyers want an original classic Mini, not one with a modified body.
#13
Posted 16 January 2014 - 10:15 AM
And, you need internal stiffening in some places, as the seams were essential for rigidity. An improperly deseamed shell, of which an example is shown above, will be floppy and have a short fatigue life.
#14
Posted 16 January 2014 - 10:22 AM
And, you need internal stiffening in some places, as the seams were essential for rigidity. An improperly deseamed shell, of which an example is shown above, will be floppy and have a short fatigue life.
Did you not read what Carlos wrote? 'In progress'
You definitely do need internal stiffening though, but I bet, if done properly, its more structurally safe than a standard body.
#15
Posted 16 January 2014 - 10:50 AM
And, you need internal stiffening in some places, as the seams were essential for rigidity. An improperly deseamed shell, of which an example is shown above, will be floppy and have a short fatigue life.
You can't see in the boot so how do you know what I've done?
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