33 replies to this topic

[tiger99]

You did not include adding stiffners in your description of the work, so it is reasonable to assume that you have not done it.

 

Let's see a picture then, so the OP can see what he needs to do.

 

The most practicable way of adding the stiffner is to do it as you go. When you grind off a length of seam, which totals 1.8mm thick, you will be left with a small gap due to the bend radius at the base of the flange, so you just insert a new internal stiffner, 1.8mm thick and same width as the old seam, in the gap, and seam weld it. As well as filling the gap, it replaces the stiffness. That will leave a lot of shortish inserts of internal stiffner, and the final action is to weld their ends together.

 

The stiffner is most needed at the rear corners, and you also need something between A panel and front wing, not forgetting to stiffen the wheel arch flange, by fitting 14A7602 (often forgotten during restorations) or the large wheel arch edge stiffners. Personally, I would always add an internal stiffner to the A pillars too, easiest if you are having to change either the windscreen surround or door frame.

[scrumpix]

this is a classic marmite case, seam or de-seam  you like or not, for me keep the seam it adds to the charm

[Carlos W]

I welded down the internal seam first, this was made easier as I was changing panels anyway!

[HarrysMini]

this is a classic marmite case, seam or de-seam  you like or not, for me keep the seam it adds to the charm

The OP wasn't asking for opinions on whether or not de-seaming looks good. He was asking about the process and the time taken.

 

There's already plenty of threads about the styling point of view of de-seaming. I personally think it looks good if done properly and on the right car.

 

I actually bought a shell that had had some de-seaming work done to it, and was going to either finish it off or re-seam it. I decided to not use the shell in the end due to the fact the de-seaming work done to it had been appalling and would never really have been safe again.

 

As you can see, this person has just ground the seams off, which is definitely not the way to do it. 

[scrumpix]

as you said he wasn't asking for an opinion. Its a forum for things to discuss and evolve. Who cares if its been covered in another thread

[tiger99]

HarrysMini,

 

That shell could probably have been made safe again fairly easily, but there would be a serious risk of it being twisted. Careful levelling up front and rear, and insertion of stiffners as I described, may have made it usable again. But it is a lot of rather tedious work, so I fully understand why you did not bother. I have an opinion about the competence of whoever did that, and I hope that he never, ever works on any other car again....

 

I happen to think that "some" Minis may look better deseamed, others definitely do not. What I would prefer, visually at least, is not really feasible, and that is to reverse the fold of the seams so that they face inwards, and show a very slight groove externally, somewhat like the Bini, as the shape of the car does tend to need a visible seam line, or at least a painted-on line. But aesthetics are very personal, and others will have many different opinions.

 

I don't know if it might be possible to get half-finished side and rear panels from a small manufacturer like M-Machine, without the flanges formed, and add a reverse flange yourself. That depends on what sort of press tools they are using, of course. (I don't think that reversing the flange on a new panel will work, the tight radius bend will most likely crack, and anyway as it will be work hardened, the flat part of the panel will tend to deform, exactly what is not wanted.) If it was possible, that would be a really neat way of doing it. Come to think of it, a front wing and A panel made in one piece might be possible too....

[crf150]

What do you mean by stiffeners? So if I weld on the inside, and then cut sections off the seam, then weld, then cut, and so on.

Would that not be enough?

[Dan]

Seam welding the panel edges is not enough by itself. The flanges that you are cutting off provide stiffness as well as jointing, you need to double the edges with a plate behind to get the stiffness back. Some filler is always needed as the panels are not the same shape either side of the seam, they were never designed to join this way. The roof seam needs most filling.

[Harrison541]

Take into account the extra work needed if you're ever replacing things like A panels and wings because you'll be doing all the grinding, filling and sanding again.

 

Personally I think the seams add to the look of the Mini as external seams are something unique, although that's not what the question is here...

[Mini 360]

I would never even contemplate buying a deseamed mini.  Most are sheds done to a poor standard and as a result unsafe.

[crf150]

Does anyone have any photos of what they have put in place to stiffen where the seams will be removed?

[Cooperman]

I once had to replace the seams on a de-seamed shell and, boy oh boy, was that ever a lot of work.

[Minimattvan]

I once had to replace the seams on a de-seamed shell and, boy oh boy, was that ever a lot of work.

Everyone seems to go on about de-seaming minis, but what I realy need to know is some advice and help on how to seam- up a mini after someone's got a bit trigger- happy with a grinder!
Seriously though, please someone tell me how to go about putting the seams back on!? The mini pickup I'm looking at has lost it's front seams- luckily the gutters escaped unscathed !
Please help me!!!!

[Cooperman]

The way I did it, and it had to be strong as I was building a full-on rally car was as follows:

I bought a pair of A-post capping strips ans slit each one with a thin cutting disc which gave me two seam pieces for each side. I welded these together by plug welding. Spot welding would have been easier, but I didn't have one. Then I supported the shell so that it couldn't twist and cut a slot down the line where the seams should be.

 

I positioned the twin-thickness strip I had made up into the new slot and set it in by about 1/8". Then I seam welded down each side on the outside to secure the new strip to the shell, welding about 2" at a time to prevent heat build-up. Then I added tack welds inside the wheel arches of about 1/2" of weld every 2" to join the new strip to the wings and A-panel. The made-up strip was slightly too short at top & bottom, so I filled the gaps with pieces of 1.2 mm thick sheet steel and weld.

 

After grinding back I seam sealed under the wings and added a skim of filler to the outside, then rubbed back and primed it.

After final spraying I fitted a set of capping strips which I had pre-painted and instead of using those nasty clips I bonded them on with Tiger-Seal.

 

I did the same at the back once the fronts were done, but I can't remember how much of the inside I managed to weld. However, seam welding the double-thickness made-up strip on the outside is quite strong enough so long as the welding is to a good standard.

 

I hope this helps. Here is a photo of the finished car in action:

 

Edited by Cooperman, 01 January 2017 - 02:14 PM.

[Minimattvan]

Great tips, and nice car! Thanks