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Mini City E 1987 Not Starting After Aldon Ignitor Fitted... Not Standard Problem

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#1 emmybean

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 09:51 AM

Ok, So on my little blue, my daily runner. We switched to an aldon ignitor this weekend.Which has caused nothing but trouble since. It has unearthed a number of problems. The story goes like this. We fitted the ignitor, and she wouldn't start. After double and triple checking everything had been done right, because when trying to start it was sounding like the battery was dead, we jump started it to take it to home base ;) ( the house with all the mini spares, but without the working shelter). The jump starting worked a treat. Started straight away, and better than that ran beautifully, did more than justice to the improvements that the ignitors claim to make. However. We got it to headquarters. Checked the battery was charged. Charged it overnight, Checked the alternator was charging the battery, changed the battery clamps, cleaned all the connections.. twice, checked the earths, tried a different coil, found a number of dodgy wire connections, which we fixed. At one point ( somewhere in between all of this, it started on one attempt..but then wouldn't again.. So we decided to see if there was a spark, which there wasn't, so we turned the dizzy and at one point we found a weak spark. tried again, but still wouldn't start. We jump started her to set the timing, but before starting her, we decided to check if there was a spark when the second battery was connected and it started with three! :S gave us a shock. So after that we plugged number 1 back in and then it wouldnt start. took it out, it started on three again. Plugged it back it.... started fine on its own without the jump leads, so we set the ignition timing ( so i could let the choke go all the way in finally :) ) . It then started fine every time we tried it for the next hour. Now this morning it wouldnt start ( i had driven it back to mine) so i jump started it from my mum. Drove it to headquarters ( again saddened by the fact the it drives so well when it  actually starts!) and then the next three times i tried to start it, absolutely fantastic, started straight away and stronger than before.... So i came to the conclusion that is isn't starting cold.... Oh forgot to mention that the voltage drops from normal to quite low when turning it over also we have had to basically completely retard the ignition timing, it wont get any more retarded... ANYONE got ANY ideas???? Its a standard 998  1987 mini city E. Thanks Guys in advance :) Emily

P.s I have searched EVERY post here on not starting and on electronic ignition, so PLEAASEEE dont tell me off for starting a new post :( ---- our next theory is that the timing (with vaccum advance? I havent done this bit before... im kinda one of the head quarters trainies... ive only had the mini about 5 months) wasnt set to 8 degrees from tdc.... so we are trying that tonight, as this should sort the fact that the mini seems to need to have its ignition timing completely retarded.... anyone think that theory is logical? Thanks guys



#2 Kieranlee999

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 10:03 AM

don't know if this is appropriate or helpful im still new to mini's but mine wont start at first unless its warm outside or the choke is pulled out have you tried that?



#3 Dan

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 11:07 AM

Very much the 'standard problem'. You have done something to upset the ballast system while working. It's perfectly normal for the voltage to drop off when cranking, that's why the ballasting is fitted. How have you fitted everything and what cables (colours) are now connected to what? What coil is fitted?

Edited by Dan, 03 February 2014 - 11:08 AM.


#4 emmybean

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 11:29 AM

It is the 1.5 ohm standard ballast coil.  All of the cables are reconnected, the white and pink is the ballast cable and is reconnected to the coil... Sorry, doesnt seem like the standard problem, the mini, all all, has had a few and usually after about three oooo moments and a couple of different approaches it works. This should have been a simple change over and has taken up well over 15 hours in the wind and cold and dark ( so I may have over reacted with that comment) but have tried everything on all forums about it ( and yeah the choke has been pulled out, then used the accelerator to check its not flooded etc etc). So as per instructions we have a live feed to the coil from the ignition and then the ignitor and ballast cables connected to the coil also ( sorry that may be wrong, as mat fitted it not me, but i KNOW he has done it right) so it is ( i assume) a connection somewhere.... just totally puzzled as to where. So you think check the ballast cable isnt damaged/ quadruple check it is connected correctly to the ballast... p.s does anyone know... we have been using the wiring diagram for my car, except i just had a thought. Its for a single instrument pack mini, however i have a taco... which is for the additional instrument pannel yes? so would this mean i should be following the other diagram? everything seems to match to this one, but i thought that when i was using the wrong one before :D Thanks for any help guys it is much appreciated.



#5 KernowCooper

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 07:34 PM

Have a read through the fitting instructions here http://www.theminifo...t-step-by-step/

The fitting is the same as the aldons



#6 CityEPete

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 07:51 PM

Mine is an 87 city e but without the ballasted ignition, after I had fitted my electronic kit it ran terrible when set to 8 degrees btdc, after buying a better light with a rev counter and advance adjustment I set it to 32 degrees at 4000 rpm, it runs and starts bang on now but if you compare the ignition to a standard timing light its already off the scale at 950rpm, id be tempted to set the timing (next time it runs) well advanced off the comb at tickover.

#7 Dan

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 08:01 PM

When you say there is a live feed from the ignition to the coil, and also the ballast supply, do you mean it has 2 ignition live connections? One direct and one ballasted? What is the module running on? Is the cranking bypass (white/yellow) connected to the right terminal at the solenoid?

#8 emmybean

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 09:21 AM

We fitted the lives etc exactly as the diagram for the aldon instructed, i didnt do it so i cant remember, i just read the instructions HOWEVER :D Update for everyone. Blue is now running. Turned out after all that it WAS the battery. The battery was reading 12 volts but the amps had dropped from 360 to 120 which wasnt enough to start her when she was cold :) so alot of fuss and niggly jobs later she is running better than ever. We used halfords free battery check to discover this.... On the upside we did alot of wiring and cleaning and replacements that would have needed doing anyway and she has a much better battery now.Would highly recommend the aldon ignitor. The difference is great, matches or exceeds their claims :) and if you have actually got a working battery ;) then the actual fitting of it is quite quick and simple. Thank you everyone so much for the help :) 



#9 Dan

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 08:16 PM

Glad it's fixed anyhow.





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