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Tackling Hidden Rust

rust repair

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#16 Merryck

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 07:24 AM

I will also take off the shock mount so Carlos W can see what's behind it! :D

 

I'll practise my butt welding along with my spot welding. I managed to weld a cube the other day which I then hammered flat. The welds were ugly, but not a single one cracked during my five minutes or so of hammering. Next time I'll dress them properly and then see how they stand up.



#17 Merryck

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 10:24 AM

I'm going to measure the windscreen aperture then remove the scuttle tonight. With the amount of metal I'm removing, is there anything I should be doing to strengthen the area while I'm working? I don't want to fit all this back on and find I've buggered the whole thing up!



#18 Minidarren83

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 12:23 PM

I'm going to measure the windscreen aperture then remove the scuttle tonight. With the amount of metal I'm removing, is there anything I should be doing to strengthen the area while I'm working? I don't want to fit all this back on and find I've buggered the whole thing up!


It depends on how much you end up removing if it's just the scuttle then no bracing needed and then you remove the flitch still no bracing but if you end up doing the whole inner wing then start thinking about bracing.
Take a look at the car and think to yourself if I take out that part what other part will be likely to sag and add a brace where you feel it's needed

#19 Carlos W

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 12:26 PM

Is the bottom of the A -post connected to anything or has it rusted through?

 

I'd be tempted to brace across the door if it's not! 



#20 sonikk4

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 12:39 PM

I'll add my bit to this, on Project Erm I did not brace anything when I removed not only the scuttle but the inner wing as well. The floor was intact along with the doorstep and inner sill. I also removed the inner section of the A post on the lh side. The car was kept level at all times and nothing moved.

Now should I have braced it therin lies the quandary. If I had removed the front crossmember then yes I would have braced the front of the car.

#21 corrado vr6

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 08:48 PM

I did a full inner wing replacement on both sides, removing takes a while but fitting was fairly simple

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No bracing but then the rest of the shell was very solid at this stage

#22 Alex_B

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 09:01 PM

Use Frosts Cold Front instead of copper sheet. Reuseable and easy to apply.

I was more talking about something solid behind the butt to weld to and avoid blowing holes but I havent seen that product before, looks good and will have to try it sometime! 



#23 AFMike85

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 11:34 PM

This might be a rookie question but, Corrado do you have to take off the scuttle to replace the full inner wing + A panel? The one on my shell in good and I'm on a bit of a time crunch and budget.



#24 corrado vr6

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 07:57 AM

Unfortunately yes, however you will probably find rust in the seams lurking away anyway so it won't be a total waste of time

#25 Thilemann

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 09:31 AM

Looking good Corrado. Just had to do same repair as topic owner. I just replaced the most outer of the panel, wich gave a nice result, and are definately easier than changing the whole wing

Edited by Thilemann, 08 March 2014 - 09:34 AM.


#26 corrado vr6

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 04:52 PM

Thanks and yes I would agree with you there a flitch repair is a lot easier and can be done to look just as good

#27 corrado vr6

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 04:54 PM

Here a flitch repair I did to my brothers mini

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#28 Merryck

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 07:35 PM

I think I'll get away with just replacing/repairing the flitch panel by the looks of things.







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