16 replies to this topic

[HarrysMini]

Hi guys,

 

When I run in my engine, I want to use a fairly bad oil to make sure the piston rings get a good seal with the bores.

 

I have a can of Halfords Classic, or this stuff 

 

My thoughts are, the oil with the least additives (usually the good stuff), will create more friction against components hopefully letting them bed in well.

 

It will be flushed after 100 miles then filled again with the same type for another 500, then I'll start using Valvoline VR1. I've never had a new engine to run in before, and I want to do it properly.

 

So which oil would you use?

[Domneon]

Tagging along on this, also need to know soon

[mad mk1]

I use the cheapest oil I can find when i have rebuilt it.

First time I start it up I let it run for about 15 to 20mins to make sure it's all good.

Then go for a little drive, then have a good look at all the hoses and the like.

Next day when it's all cold redo the head nuts back up.

Then I go for a bit of full on run! Up and down the revs. After about 50 / 70 miles swap the oil.

Then I just drive it as I normally would .

This may be wrong but it's now I do it.

Edited by mad mk1, 06 March 2014 - 10:14 PM.

[gazza01]

There are certainly people on here who will have more knowledge than me, but I would say the bedding in you talk of is more
importantly for the rings, rather than anything else. Which is more down to carb mixture settings rather than engine oil
You must make sure that your carb is set up well so as not to run too rich, this is quite important otherwise the
rings will not bed in properly, you really must have this correct. Almost, but not quite lean.
Although the engine oil will be coming out again in a short space of time I would still spend out on some proper running in oil.
If you want the engine to have a good start and therefore be a good engine throughout its life, now is not a good time to skimp on a few extra pounds. Good luck.

[Gr4h4m]

I knocked the cam in in cheap 20/50 and then dropped it. I then used millers running in oil, and the thing was run in on the rollers which can hold load. I then run CTV.

[HarrysMini]

Thanks guys.

 

Any more thoughts?

[jaydee]

The problem with these cheapo oils, which are all the same to comma classic, are low ZDDP content, bad flowing, fast shear down.

I'd highly reccomend comma sonic 20w50 instead, not too expensive, will keep the cam and the 'box safe from wear.

The most of the rings bed-in relies on how you run-in the engine (fuel mixture and engine load).

Set mixture a bit on the lean side, warm up the engine then do a first run of 50 miles with no stops, without putting load on the engine. Then you'll be free to trash the engine on the next run, but its vital that the engine is at full operating temps when you gradually give it beans.

Running the engine gently does not allow the parts to bed in.

My 2c worth.

 

Dont forget to make sure you have oil pressure before first start and to bed in the camshaft first.

Edited by jaydee, 07 March 2014 - 03:38 PM.

[racingbob]

I used Halfords to run in I now always use Castrol 20 50 been great holds good oil pressure

change it every 2000 miles

[HarrysMini]

So can you actually buy specific running-in oil?

[Tamworthbay]

So can you actually buy specific running-in oil?

yes, most of the decent suppliers do it. Millers do a good one as mentioned above. But I just use comma sonic and change it after a short while.

[cal844]

Comma classic oil is great!! Hasn't let me down with 5k miles between changes!!! And still holds good pressure and viscosity

Edited by cal844, 14 March 2014 - 08:48 PM.

[HarrysMini]

Is the Millers one 10w40? 

 

This stuff http://www.ebay.co.u...=item257f5e39e6

[Carlos W]

I was having an interesting conversation the other night about keeping the bores dry when building.

 

This was with an ex TVR engine builder who said don't oil the rings or bores when building and the bores won't glaze

[Cooperman]

Personally I never run a 'cheap' oil at any stage. For running in I normally use Castrol Classic for 300 miles or so, then change to Valvoline VR1. Remember, when running in the big-end & main bearings still require a really good oil film and the gearbox syncros/bearings/diff pin need good lubrication. For the sake of a few quid it's not worth the risk of using re-gurgitated oil (or whatever it is called).

Edited by Cooperman, 14 March 2014 - 09:20 PM.

[HarrysMini]

I was having an interesting conversation the other night about keeping the bores dry when building.

 

This was with an ex TVR engine builder who said don't oil the rings or bores when building and the bores won't glaze

Interesting.. I don't know if I'd be able to bring myself to do that though.

 

Of course, everyone is going to have different opinions on what oil to use during the running in stage. Now I really don't know what to do.