25 replies to this topic

[RedRuby]

Think this is the one for you on eBay item number



291099704795

[olly33]

That's ct1 is a bit like the "stick like sh*t " by evo stick.
Thanks red ruby,will take a look.

[tiger99]

One thing I should have said earlier is that if the bottle is polyethylene, aka polythene, no adhesive is going to stick, whether it is silicone or epoxy, or any other, so it really has to be a weld. But many (not all, especially PTFE/Teflon) other plastics are capable of being repaired using adhesive. I don't know what plastic is actually used for the bottle, polythene would be ok except possibly in extreme cases of underbonnet temperature, so I think it may be something else.

 

There are several simple tests which, when I went to school upteem years ago were sufficient to identify every type of plastic then in common use, but as there are so many more variants now, it may not be so easy. But if you has a spare bottle, or piece of a broken one, you could try a few basics, such as igniting a small piece to see how it burns, polythene being chemically akin to paraffin wax but with much longer molecular chains, so it burns cleanly and with negligible smell, dropping bits off, just like candle wax. Sorry, I can't remember all the other tests, but PVC (probably not used here) is hard to ignite, but once it gets going emits hydrochloric acid, which is very detectable by nose, eyes and throat, while perspex/acrylic gives a sweet smell. Other tests involved observing how it breaks, etc.

 

Edit: Perversely, polythene sheet behind your door cards "seems" to stick to what is basically a variant of builder's mastic, but you would not use that to make a permanent seal.

Edited by tiger99, 16 March 2014 - 11:28 PM.

[dklawson]

It's amazing what information you can find on this inter-web thingy.

 

See the link below for an article on wiper reservoir repairing.

http://dmctalk.org/s...37b3d86d92cead4

and

http://www.popularme.../how-to/4315272

 

At least some reservoirs are high-density polyethylene, others may be polypropylene.  Both weldable, neither bond well with glue.

[Captain Mainwaring]

One thing I should have said earlier is that if the bottle is polyethylene, aka polythene, no adhesive is going to stick, whether it is silicone or epoxy, or any other, so it really has to be a weld. But many (not all, especially PTFE/Teflon) other plastics are capable of being repaired using adhesive. I don't know what plastic is actually used for the bottle, polythene would be ok except possibly in extreme cases of underbonnet temperature, so I think it may be something else.

 

There are several simple tests which, when I went to school upteem years ago were sufficient to identify every type of plastic then in common use, but as there are so many more variants now, it may not be so easy. But if you has a spare bottle, or piece of a broken one, you could try a few basics, such as igniting a small piece to see how it burns, polythene being chemically akin to paraffin wax but with much longer molecular chains, so it burns cleanly and with negligible smell, dropping bits off, just like candle wax. Sorry, I can't remember all the other tests, but PVC (probably not used here) is hard to ignite, but once it gets going emits hydrochloric acid, which is very detectable by nose, eyes and throat, while perspex/acrylic gives a sweet smell. Other tests involved observing how it breaks, etc.

 

Edit: Perversely, polythene sheet behind your door cards "seems" to stick to what is basically a variant of builder's mastic, but you would not use that to make a permanent seal.

 

 

You can and we do, not fusing, but gluing. but trying it at home would be prohibitive.

 

http://tech-bond.net...e_poly_s_3.html

 

 

Actually when burned PVC releases free chlorine gas which combines with water in the atmosphere creating HCl.

[Broomer]

I looked into this a month or so and gave up when I realised you can buy universal kit car washer bottle, bracket, pump, pipe work, washer jets and wiring for about 14 quid off eBay...

Edited by Broomer, 17 March 2014 - 06:35 AM.

[olly33]

Cheers for all the advice.I like a challenge of trying to repair it if I have not got to spend anything. If it fails I just get another. Olly

[dklawson]

That's the spirit !  It is rewarding to fix something on the cheap even if new is availble. 

 

Let us know how you make out with the repairs regardless of success or failure.  It's always good to have a conclusion to threads.

[newenglandmini]

I've found that the key to welding plastics is to use a soldering gun.  Carefully melting the plastic on each side of the crack, and then spreading it across the crack will create a strong, leakproof bond.  For a thick-walled part, like the reservoir, there is usually no need for additional material.  That's important because the additional material much match the repair part, and it's difficult to do so.  I've repaired many plastic items using this technique.  There a lot's of Youtube demonstrations of this technique.

[Ethel]

Does it have a number in a triangle somewhere, that'll identify the type of plaggy - 4 is polythene.

 

Welding would be the way, you could see if there's online info for kayak repair http://www.instructa...k-with-a-hole-/

[olly33]

Managed to stop the leak.
Left it overnight in the shed full of water,not a single drip,but i suppose the test will be when it slides back onto the bracket.
I just purchased a spare one aswell from Goaty off the site! Oh well.

I done this by a mix of i think,by melting a strip of plastic from a see through milk carton,and running the soldering iron along the split.It was either the plastic milk carton that sealed it,or the melting of the actual washer bottle sealing the split.
Hope it helps anyone else out.