Wouldn't it be easier to jet get it aliminium welded/soldered back toghether? or would the bond be too weak
It would TIG back together OK. if you can get access.
Posted 23 March 2014 - 12:00 PM
Wouldn't it be easier to jet get it aliminium welded/soldered back toghether? or would the bond be too weak
It would TIG back together OK. if you can get access.
Posted 23 March 2014 - 12:09 PM
Posted 23 March 2014 - 12:55 PM
Posted 23 March 2014 - 01:02 PM
You didn't have to remove the timing cover backplate at this stage, but it does no harm at all. If the transfer case is off, and the bolts, at least two sizes, around what was the sump in the original A series installations, are all removed, it is indeed just the gasket and a couple of possibly rusty dowels that are holding it. There are 5 bolts at the front, 5 set screws at the back, and if I recall correctly, one solid dowel, and another which has a bolt through it with nut and special washer. You will have seen those. The suggestion above is sensible, and everything else that you can try will be a variant of the same theme.
I would hang the engine on the crane (assuming it is strong enough), only 3 inches off the floor, using a bracket on two cylinder head studs, and whack the gearbox all round with a soft hammer until it starts to move. A "dead blow" hammer, with the head filled with lead shot or small ball bearings, is good, and it needs a hard rubber or plastic face. Or use an intermediate piece of wood, a 12" long piece of good, hard 2*2, used on end, might work, and whack the wood with a normal hammer.
You can whack the gearcase quite hard on top of the diff casing (as close as possible to the main body), the top of the extension housing at the radiator end, and the rim below the first motion shaft gear at the clutch end. Repetitive blows, moving around all 3 places, or more if you can find them, will move it eventually. It may pay to identify the dowels and soak them in PlusGas for a while.
Edit: I am sure you know not to force a screwdriver, chisel or wedge in between engine and gearbox, but I will be surprised if someone does not come along and suggest that very thing. "Don't do as I do, do as I say", perhaps, or maybe they all have huge oil leaks?
So, there is actually 6 on one side and 5 on the other? and poor advice has cost this lad his gearbox casing ???
Posted 23 March 2014 - 01:14 PM
Posted 25 March 2014 - 07:43 AM
Posted 25 March 2014 - 11:50 AM
Posted 29 March 2014 - 04:52 PM
If you have a light aircraft servicing facility anywhere near you it might be a good idea to go and ask if they have a CAA Approved Welder. If they do have he/she could easily weld it up for you and you could have absolute confidence in the integrity of the weld. I had a crown-wheel bolt shear and the head go through an 'S' gearbox casing. An aircraft welder friend fixed it for nothing, and it was a blooming great hole!
Posted 04 April 2014 - 12:25 PM
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