20 replies to this topic

[dennismini93]

hi guys. iv got a 1993 carb mini that has a spi loom and a 1983 998 inertia engine with a 59d dizzy (blue points)

 

after fitting it into the car it kept burning out the points and melting the blue bit, also the coil got HOT. iv fitted a new points set and condenser and i bought a new coil just in case the spi one was the wrong one for the dizzy. however it still does it. iv set the points gap to 15 tho but dont know how to do dwell angle.

 

someone suggested that as my timing is by ear (not got a gun yet) it may be so far out that the spark isnt completely firing and slowly overheating it??? they also said as i haven't driven it its not getting cooling airflow over it??

 

other people said shorting on the backplate??

 

bad earth somewhere??

 

wired wrong??

 

i dont know what it is so over to you :) iv attached some pics, hope you can see something i cant

 

 

Attached Files

•  mini.jpg   42.13K   43 downloads
•  mini2.jpg   36.11K   28 downloads
•  mini3.jpg   42.36K   17 downloads
•  mini4.jpg   40.42K   20 downloads
•  mini5.jpg   26.93K   12 downloads

[KernowCooper]

What coil have you got fitted? and do you have a voltmeter to check with the ignition on the voltage on the coil +

 

looking at the picture is the wiring that tight ? one wire appears like a guitar string ?

[Dusky]

Timing i sno issue, that owuld only heat up the engine.

I would pull the green wires out of hte dizzy, and just let them hang in the engine bay, maybe disturbing something..?

Edited by Dusky, 23 March 2014 - 10:19 PM.

[dennismini93]

What coil have you got fitted? 

if im honest i cant remember. i told minispares the engine, dizzy and what my car was and they supplied the one that they thought was best

do you have a voltmeter to check with the ignition on the voltage on the coil +

 

its 12v across the coil with ignition on and 8v when it ran

looking at the picture is the wiring that tight ? one wire appears like a guitar string ?

no its just a bad picture. i did have that issue so i corrected any tight wires a while back

 

Timing i sno issue, that owuld only heat up the engine.

I would pull the green wires out of hte dizzy, and just let them hang in the engine bay, maybe disturbing something..?

thats what i thought but im only 20 so any experience i normally consider better than mine haha. and yes didnt think of that, obvious one really, will do itnext time i get on the car.

[KernowCooper]

Am I missing something here ? pull the green wire out of the distributor and just let them hang? I assume the green wire is pre-made on the new condensor, and with it removed it wont run.

 

If with the engine running there is 8v on the coil + then can you get the number off the coil sticker and post back

[dennismini93]

Am I missing something here ? pull the green wire out of the distributor and just let them hang? I assume the green wire is pre-made on the new condensor, and with it removed it wont run.

 

he just means pull the wire out a bit so there is less of it in the dizzy to get tangled up. i think

 

 

 

If with the engine running there is 8v on the coil + then can you get the number off the coil sticker and post back

minispares GCL217. on the coil 11070-B

 

i moved that wire

[KernowCooper]

GCL 217 is the 1.5ohm Ballasted coil so with the engine running its should be approx 9v and cranking 12v,

[dennismini93]

GCL 217 is the 1.5ohm Ballasted coil so with the engine running its should be approx 9v and cranking 12v,

thats what it is :)

[Dusky]

Am I missing something here ? pull the green wire out of the distributor and just let them hang? I assume the green wire is pre-made on the new condensor, and with it removed it wont run.
 
If with the engine running there is 8v on the coil + then can you get the number off the coil sticker and post back

Pull out a bit so it wont tangle indeed..

[Dusky]

Am I missing something here ? pull the green wire out of the distributor and just let them hang? I assume the green wire is pre-made on the new condensor, and with it removed it wont run.
 
If with the engine running there is 8v on the coil + then can you get the number off the coil sticker and post back

Pull out a bit so it wont tangle indeed..

[dennismini93]

 

Am I missing something here ? pull the green wire out of the distributor and just let them hang? I assume the green wire is pre-made on the new condensor, and with it removed it wont run.
 
If with the engine running there is 8v on the coil + then can you get the number off the coil sticker and post back

Pull out a bit so it wont tangle indeed..

 

done

 

Edited by dennismini93, 23 March 2014 - 11:17 PM.

[Ethel]

Whatever coil/ballast setup you have, they all should total about 3ohms resistance,otherwise the points do tend to melt, oiling the felt pad also helps to reduce friction & heat. This is also one way the rubber glove rain shield can work against you. From the piccy it also looks like the braided earth lead (black cord thingy) could be getting rubbed by the spindle lobes.

[dklawson]

Darn it !  Ethel posted while I was typing. I'll try not to repeat too much of what he said!

 

Make a different voltage measurement.  Put a coin between the points and turn the key to the run position.  Measure the voltage between coil (+) and earth.  If you measure 6V to 9V... you have the correct wiring for a ballast coil.  If you measure 12V you need to add a ballast resistor to the circuit or you will continue to damage ignition parts.

 

As Ethel said, you need to oil that felt wick on the points so it lubes the heel block.  If you don't the heel block will melt and/or wear away very quickly causing the points to close up.  Eventually the engine won't start or run well.

 

I could not tell anything from the wiring pictures.  Can you please trace each wire back and tell us where they are connected to?

Edited by dklawson, 23 March 2014 - 11:39 PM.

[dennismini93]

ok so measure resistance, oil felt and move the black wire the other side of the condenser. what do i measure the resistance between. what places?

 

you replied while i was haha - ok i'll do what i can before work tomorrow as im starting later. after that this might have to wait till saturday due to work but i'll keep you all updated. thank you for the help though its been really useful :)

Edited by dennismini93, 23 March 2014 - 11:42 PM.

[dennismini93]

 

Make a different voltage measurement.  Put a coin between the points and turn the key to the run position.  Measure the voltage between coil (+) and earth.  If you measure 6V to 9V... you have the correct wiring for a ballast coil.  If you measure 12V you need to add a ballast resistor to the circuit or you will continue to damage ignition parts.

 

i think that may be my issue. was a 1993 carb ballasted?