33 replies to this topic

[stevelane]

I have had to put the dash back in tonight to get ready for the mot so I can't get to the back of the gauge but am I right in presuming that I can do this under the bonnet which will be as close as I can get? In fact, if I try this either side of the bullet connecter, that I cant get off, it will either eliminate or confirm that this connection is an issue. I have replaced the insulated terminal at the tank and this hasn't made any difference.

[KernowCooper]

If you do it where you suggested and do a continunity check there it will conform the front/rear cable is intact or open circuit.

[stevelane]

Well I tried this under the bonnet and nothing changed, either side of the connector.

Will try again when I can get to the back of the dash after the MOT and if that doesn't work then I am tempted to take it somewhere.

Just want to say thanks to everyone who has contributed, not just for your help but your patience too.

[KernowCooper]

Tiger and Kernow will probably cringe at what I am about to suggest but....

 

Locate that green/black wire at the gauge connector.  Take your temporary wire and run a straight pin through it and then through the green/black wire so the two wires are pinned together.  Wrap the pinned area with a towel or tape so the pin stays in place and so the pin cannot touch earth.  Then connect the other end of the new wire to the insulated sending unit terminal.  As long as there is not a short circuit along the length of the green/black wire this will tell you if the problem is a brake or damaged connector between the gauge and the back of the car.

 

I believe I mentioned earlier (as Tiger and Kernow did above) that it is more likely that you find it is something like a corroded connector on the green/black wire at the tank.  In one of my previous posts I know I mentioned replacing terminals in place of pulling a new wire.

Just another means of doing what I would test with my sealey tester Doug basically the same test mate