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Hif 44 Carb


Best Answer Stu1961 , 05 April 2014 - 09:48 AM

Replaced my bolts/studs with same items made of stainless along with some copper grease seizing problem cured.

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#1 kirkcheds

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 07:14 PM

just bought a hif 44 carb with the water heated manifold to fit with my 1977 mini 1000 which has now got a  new 1275 engine which has an extra connection under the thermostat housing dont no what thats for?,  was wondering where the 2 pipes off the manifold connect to becuase also have gt 2 pipes for the heater  i have also now got the recommended bottom rad pipe which has two connections on it 

thanks  


Edited by kirkcheds, 03 April 2014 - 07:15 PM.


#2 cal844

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 08:17 PM

Post a few pictures please?



#3 Twincam

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 08:53 PM

Does it look like this one in the photo?

http://s1166.photobu...d1118a.jpg.html

#4 kirkcheds

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 10:13 AM

yes it does twin cam



#5 Twincam

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 10:20 AM

Right that sandwich plate which you have is from an injection (SPi iirc as the MPi had the temp sender screwed in the sandwich plate). If I'm not mistaken, I believe you are able to remove the plate an place the thermostat into the head unless of course you wished to keep the sandwich plate?

 

I've no pictures or diagrams of how my SPi are connected up (in terms of water hoses) but someone should be able to help if you need it.



#6 kirkcheds

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 10:27 AM

ahh ok that make more sense now just gotta try and remove the nuts which i reckon sum one tightend with a lenght of scaffolding, thanks alot



#7 s3swiss

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 12:31 PM

Think of the water heated inlet manifold as just a piece of pipe that you need to fit into the pipe going to your heater. Starting at the water outlet on the top left hand side of your cylinder head, that needs connecting to the closest connection on the manifold. You then fit the hose that goes to the heater (which used to go to the cylinder head) to the other connection on the inlet manifold. The return hose from the heater (which goes into the hose running from the water pump to the bottom of the rad) stays the same. 



#8 Twincam

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 01:51 PM

ahh ok that make more sense now just gotta try and remove the nuts which i reckon sum one tightend with a lenght of scaffolding, thanks alot


Be gentle with these bolts - spray some WD40 and allow to soak. Using the correct socket and bar, work it so open slightly, then go back on itself (so tighten a little), then open some more, then tighten, then open more and repeat. These bolts are common for breaking.

#9 gazza82

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 07:34 PM

Plus Gas is a much better penetrating fluid ... WD 40 is a lubricant ... unless you buy the correct WD40 penetrating fluid!



#10 Twincam

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 10:48 PM

Plus Gas is a much better penetrating fluid ... WD 40 is a lubricant ... unless you buy the correct WD40 penetrating fluid!


Sorry I've still got the penetrating fluid on the shelf in the garage - but a proper penetrating fluid should do it :)

Thanks Gazza

#11 Stu1961

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Posted 05 April 2014 - 09:48 AM   Best Answer

Replaced my bolts/studs with same items made of stainless along with some copper grease seizing problem cured.






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