I realise it's fairly a new product, but anyone actually fitted one and got any thoughts/opinions?
Done a few searches but nothing solid comes up.
Might just buy one and investigate myself.
Posted 06 April 2014 - 02:19 PM
I realise it's fairly a new product, but anyone actually fitted one and got any thoughts/opinions?
Done a few searches but nothing solid comes up.
Might just buy one and investigate myself.
Posted 06 April 2014 - 03:26 PM
Posted 06 April 2014 - 04:12 PM
Got one fitted to my new build early days tho but so far so good
How does it behave?? What sort of spec are you running also?
You may be the first person to write about actual first hand experience rather than meer assumptions.
Posted 06 April 2014 - 08:27 PM
Posted 06 April 2014 - 08:54 PM
Well nick swift at the time i bought it said he was selling quite a few i have a 1330 with straight cut gears etc and having went from the sw5 to the sw8 theres a difference on idle bit more "camy" but out on the road its very civilised slight hesitation when taking off but apart from that its fine, im still running the engine in and it needs a tune up
Cheers
What sort of Rev's does it pull cleanly from? Would ask you what it revs to, but if you are running the engine in properly i assume you change gear nice and early?
I know there is a graph on swiftunes website.....but want a real number to make a decision from.
Currently considering 266, SW5 , 276 and this cam.
Posted 06 April 2014 - 09:01 PM
Posted 06 April 2014 - 09:15 PM
3000rpm.....the cam is only just waking up then according to Swiftunes graph....really wish you didn't need to run your engine in as i really want to know what happens after 3k ha ha
Posted 06 April 2014 - 09:20 PM
Posted 07 April 2014 - 06:06 AM
Im really interested also. I have just fitted one to my rebuilt engine but i'm still a few months away from being on the road. I chose it over the 276 so hoping it performs well
Posted 07 April 2014 - 04:27 PM
I have the 276 in my 1330 and its certainly not a gutless wonder, but if the rest of the engines not done to match including carburation and timing spot on any engine wont perform at its best
Posted 07 April 2014 - 04:28 PM
Ive got the sw10, and if the sw8 is anything like it, then it'll be awesome. Worth a try imo.
Edited by Midas Mk1, 07 April 2014 - 04:28 PM.
Posted 07 April 2014 - 05:03 PM
The real question here should not be how the SW8 performs, but how it performs on Historic Road Rally tests, as that is what the OP wants to use it for. That is different from out-and-out road performance really.
Posted 07 April 2014 - 09:19 PM
The real question here should not be how the SW8 performs, but how it performs on Historic Road Rally tests, as that is what the OP wants to use it for. That is different from out-and-out road performance really.
Trouble is....very few people will know what those tests are Pete....but we both know they are missing out on alot of fun...ha ha
Shame when the A series was designed they didn't do a nice bit of variable valve timing like Honda mastered many many years later....that would solve my conundrum.
Posted 07 April 2014 - 09:58 PM
I'm convinced that the optimum cam for historic road rallies, with a lot of stopping, starting and handbrake turning at low speeds on the tests requires a different cam from either rallies with tight night sections on roads or special stages on fast tarmac using pace notes.
The performance on the historic tests are more down to having good torque and low gearing combined with the most important attribute which is accurate driving.
On very fast events, like those for which I originally built my 'S', a much hotter cam, like a 286, with close ratio gearing and a low FDR is better. Every time I stop on a historic road rally test I find I'm having to spin the wheels to keep it over about 5000 rpm and this costs time as the higher power of my engine is useless on those tests.
You need not worry too much about small differences between cams because in the end your times will be down to your driving accuracy/skill and Jennie's ability to keep you going the right way on the tests and providing the information exactly when you need it. You just need the ability to pull away from stationary and from very low speeds after handbrake turns or narrow chicanes on a mixture of surfaces.
Unless a person has driven such tests at competitive speeds they really won't have any idea what is needed, but will assume that rallying is like they see on the TV with very fast long stages at ultra high-speeds.
Honestly, the difference in 'seconds taken per test' will really be virtually unaltered if you use a 266, 276, SW5 or SW8, so long as you drive aggressively and accurately and the FDR is suited to the cam.
Posted 29 May 2014 - 10:05 AM
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