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Wiring Issue - Need Help Please


Best Answer Dan , 15 April 2014 - 07:39 AM

Are you connecting both green indicator cables to one terminal on the lamp and earthing the other side? Did you do the same with the ignition warning? I thought when you first mentioned the ignition warning you had it right, but you seem to have misunderstood how they work. The only warning lamp on your dash that gets a direct earth is the main beam. The ignition warning gets ignition switched live to one terminal and brown/yellow to the other. The indicator repeater gets one green indicator feed to each terminal. The oil pressure warning gets switched live to one side and the pressure sender to the other. You may have damaged your alternator if you had the warning light rigged up wrong. Go to the full post


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#1 joyce1bro

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 06:56 AM

Ok so I have new autometer ultra-lite gauges brand new speedo, tacho, fuel, volt, temp and oil press. I fitted them to the car and used as much of the existing wiring as possible, fuel, temp and pressure.

I removed the voltage stabiliser and labelled all the wiring from the old loom. Then hooked new wiring to the gauges.

Lights, temp gauge, voltmeter, and pressure gauges all work fine, however the tacho is a bit all over the joint and when I turn the car off with the key, the car keeps running and doesn't stop.

The tacho at idle and below 2k rpm is great, give it a rev and it goes up and then bounces around at an incorrect rpm randomly until the idle settles it's really ticking me off. I ran a wire direct from the (-) side of the coil to the gauge. I'm unsure what's going on with the car not turning off.

I'm running electronic ignition

Any ideas?

#2 Dan

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 07:27 AM

What car is it, what's not standard about it and how did you wire them?

#3 joyce1bro

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 07:39 AM

What car is it, what's not standard about it and how did you wire them?

It's a mk4. I did daisy chain (in series) the earth with the temp and voltmeter. Tacho ran an ignition wire which was already there (daisy chain with temp and volt also). An earth and a signal wire. It's a 1293 in pretty standard trim.

You think it would need to be grounded separately?

Edited by joyce1bro, 12 April 2014 - 07:43 AM.


#4 Dan

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 08:13 AM

No, and linking the earths together doesn't put them in series. It won't be that, as long as the earth terminals are the ones running to earth it won't matter if they are connected together or not. What do you mean about daisy chaining an ignition wire though? You aren't giving very much information, can you give us some colours? The wiring colours are to a fixed code and all mean something different.

#5 joyce1bro

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 08:23 AM

No, and linking the earths together doesn't put them in series. It won't be that, as long as the earth terminals are the ones running to earth it won't matter if they are connected together or not. What do you mean about daisy chaining an ignition wire though? You aren't giving very much information, can you give us some colours? The wiring colours are to a fixed code and all mean something different.


Daisy meaning linking sorry. I'll have a look at the wire colours soon. Not at the car right now.

#6 Rog46

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 07:14 PM

I've always understood that electronic ignition pulses can be to short to reliably feed a normal tachometer and you need one specifically for electronic ignition. The only time I tried it I fitted electronic ignition to a MG Midget. After that the tachometer bounced around just as you describe!

#7 cal844

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 07:20 PM

You need a certain type for the mini i believe



#8 joyce1bro

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 07:36 PM

You need a certain type for the mini i believe


A certain type of electronic ignition? I wonder if the 10k resistor would work?

#9 cal844

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 08:00 PM

What year is the car? I believe you need a certain tach guage or wiring loom, someone with more knowledge will be along soon



#10 joyce1bro

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 09:01 PM

Hard to say the exact year as it's had a plate swap and is registered as a 1963 Morris when it is for sure a mark 4. It's has 4388 written on the dizzy with a blue mega spark 3 coil.

This is an old pic but only put it on to show the ignition.
mini18_zpsbb67d7c7.jpg

Edited by joyce1bro, 12 April 2014 - 09:12 PM.


#11 Dusky

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 09:19 PM

You need a certain type of tachometer, Let me get a pic up ;)



#12 Dusky

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 09:24 PM

You need 'RVC ' for a electronic ignition.

RVI for a normal ignition. RVC will work on a electronic, but not the other way around...

 

Normally RVI or RVC will be printed on the back of the tachometer ( or sometimes on the front, depends of what kind you have)

grtz!



#13 joyce1bro

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 09:51 PM

You need 'RVC ' for a electronic ignition.
RVI for a normal ignition. RVC will work on a electronic, but not the other way around...
 
Normally RVI or RVC will be printed on the back of the tachometer ( or sometimes on the front, depends of what kind you have)
grtz!


I have all autometer in dash ultra-lite gauges

image_zps9eaec044.jpg

Edited by joyce1bro, 12 April 2014 - 10:02 PM.


#14 Dan

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 11:07 PM

Please read threads people, it says in the first line that it's not a Smiths tacho!

Your gauge should be fine with any sort of electronic ignition, personally I'm more interested in the details of how it's been wired. Looking at the pictures it seems you have a 64 type electronic dizzy. If that's the case it's very important to use the standard electronic ignition coil, and feed the whole thing with a full 12v, whereas you have a ballast resistor fitted. This will sooner rather than later kill off the module of a 64 dizzy. This might be part of the problem.

#15 joyce1bro

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 12:23 AM

Please read threads people, it says in the first line that it's not a Smiths tacho!

Your gauge should be fine with any sort of electronic ignition, personally I'm more interested in the details of how it's been wired. Looking at the pictures it seems you have a 64 type electronic dizzy. If that's the case it's very important to use the standard electronic ignition coil, and feed the whole thing with a full 12v, whereas you have a ballast resistor fitted. This will sooner rather than later kill off the module of a 64 dizzy. This might be part of the problem.

Thanks Dan, I'm going to take a couple of photos of the hook up and maybe a vid. So in laymens terms I need to change to a standard coil? Or can I get rid of the ballast resistor?

Edited by joyce1bro, 13 April 2014 - 12:23 AM.





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