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Cheap Worthwhile Mods


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#16 Cooperman

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 10:20 AM

My daughter had a 1979 brown 850 when she was about 20. She named it 'Charlie Brown'. it was a great little car.

 

For 850 performance the drum brakes are adequate so long as the cylinders, linings, drums and adjusters are all in good condition.

 

It is always worthwhile replacing the suspension bushes on the front and making sure all the suspension settings are correct.

 

The cylinder head on the 850 will give a decent power increase if gas-flowed. The Cooper 12G295 head can be fitted, but it would be expensive and would need a lot skimming off it to get the CR to even a reasonable figure. Best to do some work on the original 850 head and skim it to get the CR to around 9.75:1.

 

A 3-into-1 exhaust manifold is a good idea, but don't heat-wrap it as that leads to all sots of problems with welds cracking. The original Cooper exhaust pipe is also good as it is not too big in diameter.

 

With a better head, an HS4 carb, suitably 'needled' improves things so long as a better inlet manifold is used.

 

The 850 is a lovely true classic car and is just fun to drive. Mini motoring as it was intended to be. With the 3.5" x 10" wheels the handling is about the best you can ever get from a Mini and much better than the later cars with huge wide wheels.

 

You will simply love driving it. Good luck.



#17 Chesterman

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 02:07 PM

The list of parts is growing by the second thanks a lot guys I have a few questions.

 

Would it be worth it for the extra money to get a HIF38 over the HS4 or will the HS4 be more than enough?

also

In the way of exhaust and inlet manifolds I was looking at a FreeFlow exhaust manifold like

THIS but I still not too sure on inlet manifolds what do you guys recommend?


Edited by Chesterman, 19 April 2014 - 02:08 PM.


#18 JDImini

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 02:11 PM

HS4 would be fine for an 850 as well as a 998 in the latest mini world there is a tuning guide for an 850 might me worth a look?? Hope it helps

#19 ACDodd

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 02:43 PM

Ok, the 295 heads inlet ports are too large for an 850 engine. If you want performance you need a big valve small port head. A reworked 850 head with 1.26" intake valves is awesome leave the intake port stock, but with the sharp edges smoothed.

AC

#20 Cooperman

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 02:58 PM

The only inlet manifold available for a reasonable price is the C-AHT770.

You could probably adapt the standard 850 manifold by cutting off the exhaust part and just using the inlet. The inside could be cleaned up a bit to improve flow and to match an HS4. In fact I've seen an 850 with 47 bhp using the existing inlet, an H4, a Cooper ex. manifold and ex. pipe and a slightly better cam and gas-flowed head with slightly larger inlet valves.

AS you are just starting out driving you will want to enjoy the car without making it unreliable, so don't go too 'wild' with the mods, just do a bit to help it along and spend on suspension and brakes before doing the engine.

A better set of dampers is always of benefit for road-holding and handling too.

On 3.5" wheels use 145/80 x 10 tyres and don't be tempted by wider wheels which will gain you nothing on an 850 as it would just waste some cash which could be better spent elsewhere.



#21 JDImini

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 03:12 PM

I agree with spending on breaks and suspension (y)

#22 ACDodd

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 03:13 PM

Ideally as Cooperman has said the best mods for a new driver is to mainstain a perfect stock engine. Fresh perfect valve seal and dyno tuned would make the best of what you have.

AC

#23 someone2244

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 09:54 PM

Hi Chesterman !
I would listen to your brother he sounds very intelligent :) and has probably gone though it already, I think he is saying like most people are that getting it running well and getting some Ncb are more worthwhile than getting carried away tuning at the moment.

Edited by someone2244, 19 April 2014 - 10:09 PM.


#24 Chesterman

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Posted 20 April 2014 - 08:56 AM

Hi Chesterman !
I would listen to your brother he sounds very intelligent :) and has probably gone though it already, I think he is saying like most people are that getting it running well and getting some Ncb are more worthwhile than getting carried away tuning at the moment.


Ok Matthew I'll do what you did but I'm not putting a 1275 in it and putting speedwell stickers and badges all over it ;)

#25 HarrysMini

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Posted 20 April 2014 - 03:55 PM

Surprised nobody has come here telling you to keep it standard because they don't want you to mod your own car. 

 

If it was mine, I'd be doing the following things

 

  • FULL service 
  • Electronic ignition conversion
  • Front disc conversion with Mintex M1144 pads (not cheap but definitely worthwhile)
  • Rust treatment and underbody wax (Dynax UB and S50)
  • HIF38 carb 
  • 'Stage 1' kit 
  • Halogen headlight conversion (Wipac Freeform with Osram Nighbreaker bulbs are the beat readily available ones)
  • Steering wheel drop bracket/seat extending brackets if you like

Once you have a couple of years NCB, you can think about serious power upgrades. Or if you can afford the insurance now, get a decent cam and head fitted. That's for another thread though.



#26 richw911

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Posted 20 April 2014 - 04:52 PM

Electronic Flasher units:

 

The old mini units have a metal moving part that breaks after a short time, todays cheap ones are even worse.The new type are electronic so last for years.

To upgrade you need two electronic type flasher units found in modern cars and can be had for about £1 at a scrap yard!

The units im using are from a 90s Ford Fiesta :

2012-07-18125305.jpg

You can use other makes but the fords are common and work well.


You will notice the new units have 3 pins and the mini wiring loom has only 2 pins, to wire the three pin units in is very simple the third pin just goes to earth:

2012-07-18124157.jpg


Edited by richw911, 21 April 2014 - 08:47 PM.


#27 HarrysMini

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Posted 20 April 2014 - 05:11 PM

^careful, mention Chinese parts on here and you'll get done for racism.

#28 Chesterman

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Posted 20 April 2014 - 06:13 PM

Surprised nobody has come here telling you to keep it standard because they don't want you to mod your own car. 
 
If it was mine, I'd be doing the following things
 

  • FULL service 
  • Electronic ignition conversion
  • Front disc conversion with Mintex M1144 pads (not cheap but definitely worthwhile)
  • Rust treatment and underbody wax (Dynax UB and S50)
  • HIF38 carb 
  • 'Stage 1' kit 
  • Halogen headlight conversion (Wipac Freeform with Osram Nighbreaker bulbs are the beat readily available ones)
  • Steering wheel drop bracket/seat extending brackets if you like
Once you have a couple of years NCB, you can think about serious power upgrades. Or if you can afford the insurance now, get a decent cam and head fitted. That's for another thread though.

Is the HIF38 worth the extra money over the HS4?

#29 HarrysMini

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Posted 20 April 2014 - 07:09 PM

I think so, I have found them to be far more reliable.

#30 sledgehammer

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Posted 21 April 2014 - 02:01 PM

Is the HIF38 worth the extra money over the HS4?

 

I would watch out for the bottom of the carb hitting the bulk head

 

mine does on the 998 - think I'm going to try to extend the top bar a bit

 

is the 850 block shorter than the 998 - or is it just piston size ?






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