17 replies to this topic

[Hebby73]

Has anyone used this paint before, there's conflicting information out there, first off it says you can paint directly over rust & that you don't need any primer, but then they also sell primer for it ? I'm wanting to paint the floor & under the wheel arches of my mini & possibly the boot, anyone used this paint before with success ? All information would be greatly received.

[l_jonez]

It does paint over rust, the primer goes on top of the POR15 so that you can put a top coat over it

[jcslocum]

Scrape, clean up any dirt and dust and paint it right on the rusty area. Work quite well.

[HarrysMini]

POR15 has three stages:

 

1) Marine Clean: This is a caustic cleaner that will ensure the surface to be painted is clean.

 

2) Prep N Ready: This is an etching primer that makes the surface ready to paint.

 

3) POR15: This is the top coat that you put on last.

 

As with any paint, brush off any loose or flaking bits so you are back to a sold surface. The above steps will do the rest. I find POR15 actually sticks to rusty metal better than new clean metal.

[JonnyAlpha]

Has anyone used this paint before, there's conflicting information out there, first off it says you can paint directly over rust & that you don't need any primer, but then they also sell primer for it ? I'm wanting to paint the floor & under the wheel arches of my mini & possibly the boot, anyone used this paint before with success ? All information would be greatly received.

Hebby73 I think POR15 is manufactured by Frost not Eastwood, Eastwood do their own version of Rust treatments?

 

Frost POR 15

 

Eastwood 

 

Although whilst sorting out the links above Eastwood sells Frost POR 15 and Frost sells Eastwood rust treatment products

[jcslocum]

The major difference between the Eastwood and POR product is that the Eastwood is not affected by UV light. It works just as well as the POR and I have actually switched over to it from POR15. 

[Air2air]

Did my whole underbody in Eastwood POR15 with a small roller.  Then for the next 5 days I thought I was Napoleon.  Make sure your garage is open, and put a fan right in front of your face the whole time.  Or you will be cursing Wellington and searching your wallet for Francs.

 

POR15 is an oxygen barrier, which is why some say you can paint over the rust.  At the very least wirebrush the nasty scale off so the POR15 can adhere to some metal.  Forget the primer.  Mine will not even come off the rubber brake lines I splattered it on.  Instead of primer simply prep every square inch first by going over it with acetone and making sure it's absolutely oil-free.

 

When you do your arches get the car up as high on the stands as you possibly can so you can really reach up around in there, especially the front wings.  Then spray a can of black underbody rubber coating up into each of the 4 arches.  Mask off the suspension bits, a plastic bag and some tape will do.

 

Inside the boot I assume you mean just the floor.  I hope you'll take out your battery and hit the box too from all sides.  

Edited by Air2air, 23 May 2014 - 05:51 PM.

[Hebby73]

Thanks everyone that has realy cleared up a lot of my questions I'm surprised that the primer is to be used after to apply a top coat, but at the same time this also makes sense. So has anyone found a supplier that's the cheapest ? I was just going to go buy it from frost, & also will one tin do the whole floor ? Until I get a tin I've no idea if it's like water or like syrup 😁 I'm guessing you just throw away brushes once you use them, I will prep the whole area to be painted make sure it's clean & give it go. Thanks once again everyone,

[bikewiz]

Wear gloves and as Air2Air says ventilate well or wear a respirator. If you get it on your skin be prepared have it on you until it wears off. POR 15 is pretty thin and yes use disposable brushes.

[jcslocum]

Thanks everyone that has realy cleared up a lot of my questions I'm surprised that the primer is to be used after to apply a top coat, but at the same time this also makes sense. So has anyone found a supplier that's the cheapest ? I was just going to go buy it from frost, & also will one tin do the whole floor ? Until I get a tin I've no idea if it's like water or like syrup I'm guessing you just throw away brushes once you use them, I will prep the whole area to be painted make sure it's clean & give it go. Thanks once again everyone,

It's this like water and drips, drools, and splashes around. Throw away brushes. The POR15 needs to be top coated due to no UV protection. If it's gonna be covered up by carpet or mats, the no top coat needed. The Eastwood stuff needs no topcoat. 1quart will do the whole floor with extra left over. Pour some from the tin into another container to paint from as it reacts with moisture. Clean the edge and rim of the tin surgically clean when you are finished. If you leave paint in the rim, the top will be welded on by the drying paint. Ask me how I know.

[Hebby73]

Haha ! Yes I can understand how it welds on ! Great advice there for pouring into another container for painting from.
So gloves & overalls highly recommended ! Noted.
Will buy some next week from frost I'm planning on painting the inside of my floor, was going for gray, rather than black.
So here's a thought....if I paint my roof with black what would happen ? Would it just go dull ? If so it would make a good Matt black, or would it have a white tint to it, was thinking of using rubber paint for the roof that you use on garage roofs as I fancy doing something a little different with the roof....my consern is flex & cracking of the paint. Will concentrate on the floor first. Thanks all 😃🚖

[Air2air]

Hebby sorry to throw a wrench into all this but POR15 should be used for areas that are getting beaten up badly and need rust protection.  This means the underside and arches.

 

This is a horrible job but you know the rust is coming at you from the outside, not your interior.  It is an oxygen barrier so when pebbles hit something they bounce off and the pit it creates is still sealed from the oxygen.  I hate to say it but it's a waste to paint the inside with it, because you'll still rust from the outside - so all that work for nothing.

 

The top hot rod shops here use it on frames and undersides. It is topcoated with body color and left black on frames.  Nothing touches it for protection and longevity.  You're making a great decision to use it.

 

I would make it a two-day job:

 

Day one is spent outside on stands.  First take off the exhaust.... Sorry.   Degrease the living crap out of the entire underside a few square feet at a time.  Use a creeper, spray degreaser and brush and just give hell to every inch.  Spray it off, then move on to another section.  You'll be able to finish this part by the afternoon.

 

If you have any energy left put a wirebrush on your drill and go after loose chippy paint and rust.  Make sure the wirebrush is degreased too.  You don't care what the hell is painted on the underside.  You don't need to strip it bare.

 

Day two you could do the wirebrushing bit instead.  You want to get the POR15 on there in the hottest part of the day, it will go much faster than the wirebrushing and degreasing did.  Then just throw away the brushes as the others have said.  The POR 15 will be ready to topcoat in about an hour with a rubberized undercoat if you have the time.

 

Mainly you want time to be able to get the exhaust back in so you can get to work on Monday.

Edited by Air2air, 24 May 2014 - 06:53 PM.

[Hebby73]

Air2air

I hear what your saying, but I have surface rust on the inside of the floor as well as a little on the out side, if this stuff is as good as what everyone says it is, then I don't realy see how I can go wrong but starting out painting the inside of the car first. It's easier for a start off & the more protection the better, right ?

The car had new floors put on a few years back & was under sealed for protection. These are in great shape, but the side never got painted & it's been sat in a garage for a few years now, so the inside has very light surface rust, hence why I'm doing the inside first, after all it's going to be covered up with a carpet anyway, & minis do leak water in as we all know how rubbish door seals / window seals are, so if water gets in I'm not to bothered if the in sides been sealed up too, once I get the hang of it I will then turn the car over & paint underneath.

There is a method to this madness, not much of a method but there is one 😃 thanks again everyone all advice is greatly appreciated

[Jeffrob445]

Not overly impressed with POR15 (used it on Landrovers) , I now use a relatively cheap chassis paint from Midtec, that is bullet proof, remains flexible and is easy to touch up.  BUT it is very very shiny.

[colinu]

POR15... I swear by the stuff. Did the underneath, arches, bulkhead, hub carriers, radius arms, and both subframes during my rebuild. Frankly primer and top coating is not needed unless the surface is exposed to direct sunlight.
Gloves are definitely needed as is a good supply of cheep brushes. Also have a tin of acetone to hand... it's the only stuff that will get POR15 off you skin.

Cheers,
Colin.

P.S.
Air2air... fancy meeting you here :)