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Nearside Wheel Locking When Pulling Away?


Best Answer Marky Tizz , 04 June 2014 - 12:42 PM

All sorted now, just picked up from the garage. £150 lighter but make a huge change. Was definitely wheel bearing; Brakes feel better, tracking better, handles better, no noise...amazing what a difference it can make.

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#1 Marky Tizz

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Posted 28 May 2014 - 11:48 AM

1989 Mini 30

Non-standard parts that could affect: adjustable tie rods, kyb gasadjust dampers

 

so after the oil/water change debaucle this weekend, I had hoped to get a little while of pain free driving, but alas no it's a mini.

 

Essentially, sat in traffic last night, engaged first gear, then tried to pull forward with the traffic, and it wouldn't move more than an inch. I can only describe it as it felt like the left wheel was jamming, it had the feel of being stuck on a rock - but no rock. Tried a couple times, wouldn't move forward, then had the idea to try reversing (not rolling back but actually reversing) and that made a grinding noise but freed the wheel in order to move on.

 

Driving home from that, odd grinding noise most of the way. Safe to say, I haven't driven it since and don't plan to, but would be good to have an idea of what to look at.

 

I'm thinking; wheel bearing / drive shaft / maybe even something in the suspension catching/fallen off?

 

Thanks, Mark



#2 Dan

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Posted 28 May 2014 - 11:52 AM

Sounds like the calliper is sticking to me.

#3 Marky Tizz

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Posted 28 May 2014 - 11:54 AM

Forgot to mention, started pulling to the left as well - so could well be caliper?

 

What's the best way to approach that, i.e. how would you say it's sticking?



#4 Dan

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Posted 28 May 2014 - 11:57 AM

Take the wheel off, pull the pads and clean everything as much as you can with brake cleaner, it might just be a buildup of dust around the pistons. You need to thoroughly inspect the edges of the pistons for corrosion.

#5 ibrooks

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Posted 28 May 2014 - 12:08 PM

Before you pull anything apart lift the wheel and see if you still get noises/locking when just spinning the wheel by hand. If those go away when you take the caliper off then you've at least identified the problem area but if that doesn't make a difference then it points towards the diff as the problem area.

 

I hope it's the caliper.

 

Iain



#6 Marky Tizz

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 08:01 AM

Had the wheel off at the weekend, visually everything looked ok but there's quite a bit of play in the wheel/hub (6 + 12 o clock) - could be related?

 

My dad is wondering if could be wheel bearing?



#7 Dan

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 08:50 AM

If it's the wheel bearing the play will be all round, it will also vanish when the brakes are applied. Play 6 to 12 points to ball joints. It's unlikely to cause a serious locking up issue though. With the front jacked up can you make the diff work? If you turn one wheel does the other spin the other way?

#8 cal844

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 09:53 AM

Id imagine the OP was sitting at the lights with the brakes applied...

#9 Marky Tizz

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 11:35 AM

Id imagine the OP was sitting at the lights with the brakes applied...

 

This is correct.

 

Dan, will try and jack up tonight when I get home and have another look. There is play all round if I remember correctly, I just thought the 6/12 thing was the standard way to test so used that to clear up what I meant.



#10 cal844

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 04:23 PM

Did you brake from a high speed??(50-60mph)

#11 Marky Tizz

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 05:06 PM

Did you brake from a high speed??(50-60mph)

 

No would have been max 30, pretty sure it was slow moving traffic though.

 

If I jack the car up and rotate the wheel, you can hear a grinding noise once on every rotation at the same place. The hub has play without the wheel on it. The noise dissapears at higher speeds.



#12 mini13

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 05:29 PM

sonds bearing related,

 

check the big nut in the middle for tightness



#13 Marky Tizz

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 06:03 PM

sonds bearing related,

 

check the big nut in the middle for tightness

 

Hub nut is so tight we couldn't even crack it. Don't have my breaker bar at this address... The mechanic who got it back on the road for me said he changed a bearing, but now can't remember which one, but said both sides had play before, one just tightened up and he replaced the other. I'm thinking he changed drivers side as it's rock solid, and passenger side has worked lose/whatever since he tightened it up. Now just got to get it to a garage safely... don't really have the time/kit here to do it.



#14 Dan

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 06:40 PM

  That could well be it, you can't readjust a taper roller bearing.  Well not the design of bearing used in a Mini at least.  Once its worn it needs to be replaced.  The mechanic's done a dangerous thing there.



#15 Marky Tizz

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Posted 03 June 2014 - 11:49 AM

Is now at my local garage to where I work (Ford service centre -.-) but really need it back so what can you do. They're 90% it's wheel bearing, let's hope so. Going to be about £120+vat :'(






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