17 replies to this topic

[scrumpymini]

Hi all just wanted to see if there is a basic static timing setting for my Mini, she has the engine and electronic ignition from a good old metro its a 12hd09 lump with the minispares stage one kit fitted, the timing light I have borrowed can be set to what you require.

Also as i'm new to this any guide on how to do it would be a great help.

 

Thanks' in advance.

 

Steve.

[CityEPete]

Well static timing does not need a timing light! The clue is in the name but you should be able to use the metro info for a static timing figure to get the car to start, unless the car is already running then what you want is dynamic timing using the light?

Edited by CityEPete, 04 June 2014 - 05:56 PM.

[CityEPete]

http://www.oldclassi...opic.php?t=6956&

This is suggesting 11 degrees btdc at 1500 rpm vac pipe removed.

[scrumpymini]

Well static timing does not need a timing light! The clue is in the name but you should be able to use the metro info for a static timing figure to get the car to start, unless the car is already running then what you want is dynamic timing using the light?

 

she does start so need to look into setting dynamic timing then, thanks' for that.

[CityEPete]

No problem, does your light have an advance setting and do you have a tacho on your car? If so remove the vacuum pipe from the dizzy and block the end coming from the carb with some insulation tape or similar, hook up the light black to earth, red to positive (I usually get on one of the fusebox spades) trigger around number one's ht lead (nearest the rad) start the car making sure no leads are going to get tangled up in the fan or alternator and adjust the tickover to sit at 1500 rpm, with your light set to 11 btdc point at the crank pulley and see where the notch on the pulley lines up in relation to the comb, you want it to be a tdc (top dead centre, usually a longer mark or prong on the crank case) as the advanced light is altering it for you, if its a standard light then the marker needs to line up with the 11 btdc mark on the comb instead as the strobe flashes and makes it look stationary. If its out loosen the dizzy pinch bolt and turn it left or right and you will see the timing mark moving in advanced or retarded directions, go in the direction required to get to 11 btdc keeping an eye on the tacho, balance the tickover to the timing adjustments until it is ticking over at 1500 bang on and the timing at 11 btdc (or inline with the tdc mark if you have an advanced light remember).

Once you are happy that is good rev the car and watch the marker, it should advance as the revs rise proving the mechanical advance in the dizzy works, reconnect the vacuum and it should advance even more proving the vacuum advance works, to test the vacuum clearly attach a pipe to the dizzy and suck on it at the same time as watching the strobe again, you should see a clear advance as you suck!

The method there is good (I think?lol) but the btdc figure and rpm is based on nothing but that link so I would ask around for a dynamic figure first. On my 998 mini 32 btdc at 4000 works very well ime, realistically you need a really good digital strobe with advance setting and a tacho built in.

Does that make any sense?

Edited by CityEPete, 04 June 2014 - 07:19 PM.

[dklawson]

I prefer to set for the maximum advance the engine can support without knocking and pinging.  Rather than repeat that timing method in this post, please see my post in the recent thread linked below.

http://www.theminifo...ming-do-i-need/

[CityEPete]

Well you did exactly the same in that thread to begin with!

Do as I said but as dklawson says if its knocking and pinking under load after retard the timing back a touch until it runs well under load and that is about as good as you will get, ok its not a numbers game but 32btdc at 4000rpm is a starting point imo.

[CityEPete]

It is also a repeatable position to note down and return to once you have it nailed, a digital light can even be used to to find what degree at a fixed rpm you have decided works well and note it down, mine is flat as a pancake if set to the book with a standard light.

[scrumpymini]

Chaps thanks' for this, the timing light I will be using can be set to what's required so will try Pete's fantastically explained method as I have no mot at present as this is the closing stages of my restro.

I will now have to buy a tacho DOH.

[CityEPete]

Ha I understand your post now dklawson! You meant not repeating the post, i read it as not to carry it out like that lol.

Edited by CityEPete, 04 June 2014 - 08:52 PM.

[dklawson]

No worries Pete. 

[Rubbershorts]

Hi everyone.
I've set my idle timing as above. Revs at 1500, vac removed and plugged, standard 1993 Rio 1275 apart from the stage 1 kit. According the Haines it's 5⁰ +1⁰, so I've set it at 6⁰. I've then plugged the vacuum pipe back in and tested the advance further into the rev range. At 2000 it was 17⁰ and 3000 it was 45⁰. I didn't test 4000 as it's Sunday and I thought the neighbours had probably had enough. Obviously that 45⁰ is nuts, so have I done something wrong? Should the vacuum remain unplugged for the duration? I'll just say, the gun is new and it's the first time I've used one, so let's factor that in, eh?

Edited by Rubbershorts, 10 November 2024 - 05:51 PM.

[Lplus]

Hi everyone.
I've set my idle timing as above. Revs at 1500, vac removed and plugged, standard 1993 Rio 1275 apart from the stage 1 kit. According the Haines it's 5⁰ +1⁰, so I've set it at 6⁰. I've then plugged the vacuum pipe back in and tested the advance further into the rev range. At 2000 it was 17⁰ and 3000 it was 45⁰. I didn't test 4000 as it's Sunday and I thought the neighbours had probably had enough. Obviously that 45⁰ is nuts, so have I done something wrong? Should the vacuum remain unplugged for the duration? I'll just say, the gun is new and it's the first time I've used one, so let's factor that in, eh?

You're testing the mechanical advance so the vacuum pipe should be disconnected and plugged all the time.

[Rubbershorts]

Hi everyone.
I've set my idle timing as above. Revs at 1500, vac removed and plugged, standard 1993 Rio 1275 apart from the stage 1 kit. According the Haines it's 5⁰ +1⁰, so I've set it at 6⁰. I've then plugged the vacuum pipe back in and tested the advance further into the rev range. At 2000 it was 17⁰ and 3000 it was 45⁰. I didn't test 4000 as it's Sunday and I thought the neighbours had probably had enough. Obviously that 45⁰ is nuts, so have I done something wrong? Should the vacuum remain unplugged for the duration? I'll just say, the gun is new and it's the first time I've used one, so let's factor that in, eh?

You're testing the mechanical advance so the vacuum pipe should be disconnected and plugged all the time.

Cheers LPlus. Is mechanical advance the same as dynamic advance? I've definitely watched a YouTube video where the vacuum pipe was reconnected, after the initial timing was set, and an advance curve was plotted in this way. I'll re-test this week with the vac removed and plugged.

[timmy850]

The vacuum adds more advance at part throttle for better economy and performance when cruising

For initial setup of the mechanical advance:
Remove vacuum advance pipe
Check the advance at idle, 2000, 3000, 4000 and record the RPM where it stops advancing.
Hopefully you’ll get something like your 5-10 at idle, then a max of 30-32 degrees at 4000 with no more advance after that