23 replies to this topic

[Cooperman]

Since BMW are currently unable to supply what I consider a straightforward part for my wife's 2006 BMW 325i (an exhaust cam VANOS unit), she is having to use my 730D and I'm using my historic rally Cooper 'S' as my daily driver.

So I've got my ear plugs to cope with the straight cut drop gears, I cleaned it out and it's actually quite fun. I had to fit a new clutch release bearing on Wednesday afternoon as I discovered the old one was a bit noisy.

 

So I've gone to 'Little from Large'  :

 

 

 

 

[IainStallard]

The way it should be done ;)

[silve1999]

Cooperman, that is lovely :)

[petehuws]

Cooperman, that is gorgeous...  If you passed me on the road in that I think I'd wee my trousers!!!

[Cooperman]

The Mini has done 32 historic rallies, 31 with me driving and one with me navigating, and has 5 outright wins, normally top 5 placings except when we have not finished due to rolling it (once), transmission failures, (5 times), broken gear-shift linkage (once), navigator sickness (once) and terminal navigational error (once). 

So it is a genuine rally car, not a 'make believe' one just made to look like one.

Power is over 100 bhp at 6400 rpm with peak torque at c.4800 rpm 0 - 60 mph was accurately measured at 7.4 seconds. Fuel consumption is c.20 mpg on the road, but drops to 12 mpg on rally tests. It's doing 98 mph at 7000 rpm. Transmission is 4-syncro SC CR gear set with horrible straight-cut drops. Final Drive Ratio is 3.9:1 and in top gear it is doing 14 mph per 1000 rpm, so 4000 rpm in top is 56 mph.

BMW has 231 bhp, does 0 - 60 in 7.5 seconds, 148 mph top speed, 43 mph per 1000 rpm in top (6th) gear, so 2000 rpm is 86 mph, and gives 34 mpg overall.

[Miniminx71]

Cool. Says it all really doesn't it - you can fix a 40 odd year old Mini whatever the problem but something straightforward on an 8 year old BMW - forget it! I know which I'd choose every time

[Cooperman]

Yes, I had a serious disagreement with BMW Customer Services and pointed out that until they could supply the right parts I would be driving a 50 year old BMC car as that was reliable and all parts were available within 24 hours (from Mini Spares!).

I said that I was sure the media would like to make a story about the improvements in technology in that time and feature a lady who bought a BMW only to end up driving a 1964 Mini-Cooper 'S'. They called me back 5 times during that day with promises about quick delivery and a suggested possible date for the part to arrive. I was asked if it would help if they sent my wife some flowers (yes, they really said that!). I said, "No, just send her a b****y VANOS unit"! 

So you can plug a modern car into a computer which tells you exactly what is wrong, but then the manufacturer's logistics are so bad that they can't even tell you when the parts will be available. Until then if you don't have a second car you catch the bus. How wonderful  .

[BronkoMini]

That would be cool using it as a daily drive, but with its history is be worried about other careless drivers, also do you have any tips on replacing the baring as I need to do mine as it's getting really loud?

[surfblue]

Not at all surprising, just ironic.

Heres my little and large:-

 

 037.JPG   72.41K   30 downloads

[Cooperman]

It is truly amazing how large modern cars are. A friend called round today with his 61-plate BMW 330D. It's about the same size as a 1980 7-Series BMW.

[Cooperman]

That would be cool using it as a daily drive, but with its history is be worried about other careless drivers, also do you have any tips on replacing the baring as I need to do mine as it's getting really loud?

 

Undo the engine mountings and the radiator bracket. Undo the engine steady bar and swing it clear. You may need to remove the servo depending on the model.Mine is a Mk.1 'S' so I have the servo with flexible brake pipes & I hang it over the RH wing.

remove the starter motor bolts and slide it clear of the flywheel housing.

Undo the clutch spring

Remove the 8 bolts around the clutch cover and slide the cover out.

Fit a new clutch release bearing, grease the plunger, fit new clevis pins when re-fitting the clutch arm if the old ones are worn.

Slacken off the overthrow nuts before re-fitting.

Re-fit the cover. You may miss out the clutch cover bolt right at the back if you wish as it's a b****r to get at.

Re-set the clutch arm stop clearance if it's pre-Verto.

Re-set the overthrow stop nut & lock it with the locknut.

[BronkoMini]

That would be cool using it as a daily drive, but with its history is be worried about other careless drivers, also do you have any tips on replacing the baring as I need to do mine as it's getting really loud?

 
Undo the engine mountings and the radiator bracket. Undo the engine steady bar and swing it clear. You may need to remove the servo depending on the model.Mine is a Mk.1 'S' so I have the servo with flexible brake pipes & I hang it over the RH wing.
remove the starter motor bolts and slide it clear of the flywheel housing.
Undo the clutch spring
Remove the 8 bolts around the clutch cover and slide the cover out.
Fit a new clutch release bearing, grease the plunger, fit new clevis pins when re-fitting the clutch arm if the old ones are worn.
Slacken off the overthrow nuts before re-fitting.
Re-fit the cover. You may miss out the clutch cover bolt right at the back if you wish as it's a b****r to get at.
Re-set the clutch arm stop clearance if it's pre-Verto.
Re-set the overthrow stop nut & lock it with the locknut.

Many thanks, copied and pasted into my maintanance folder

[Cooperman]

The only potential difficulties are jacking the engine up high enough at the RH (i.e. clutch) end, getting the 8 bolts out and lining up the engine-mounting holes when re-assembling.

You can cut holes in the front sub-frame around 3/4" diameter to gain better access to the clutch cover bolts.

[Carlos W]

Wow, you must be turning some heads with that

[Cooperman]

I'm sure a lot of people think I'm an O.A.P 'boy-racer'  .