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Quality Of Mini Spares Rubber Parts


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#16 1984mini25

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 08:48 PM

Exactly the same problem. the rubber bits that were replaced new on my other project mini that hasn't been on the road or out of the garage for the last few years all need replacing. In fact the only parts that don't need replacing are the ones I replaced for poly, something I've also recently been doing to the daily.  

 

Although that reminds me seeing as I have the mot on the daily due soon and the front knuckle joints I fitted from min-it's (there excuse was what do you expect from cheap parts) the rubber dust covers had disintegrated complete within 8 months. I know they are cheap enough, but its a right paint having to completely disassemble the front suspension just to replace a £2.50 part just because the rubber part just doesn't last.



#17 big-jay

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 08:57 PM

The way I see it, if it's going to be a part that's going to be a pain to change / hard to get to later down the line, then use good quality / genuine rubber parts. If it's a fairly easy part to change then buy the cheaper alternative.

I agree it's totally unacceptable but what can you do, most aftermarket things aren't as good as the genuine !

Edited by big-jay, 07 July 2014 - 08:59 PM.


#18 ibrooks

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 12:31 PM

I've salvaged a set of immaculate dust covers from the balljoints that came off the rear of the GTM. They've all got MOWOG cast into the rubber and show no signs of cracking or anything - They'll probably go back on with the new balljoints rather than the ones that came with them. I also save the dust seals from the top arms if they are good when I take them apart - my reasoning is that if they are good and show no cracks when cleaned and bent sharply then they are probably better than the rubbish that's been supplied recently.

 

A mate has a car in build that's going to need all the dust seals replacing before it goes on the road despite the fact that they were brand new ones and it's never turned a wheel under it's own power and never been outside the garage for more than a few hours since they were fitted.

 

Iain



#19 Webstercon

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 09:56 PM

I wonder if there's something you can apply to the rubbers to prevent cracking from drying and exposure to salt on the roads, maybe a silicon spray. Just a thought  =]



#20 KernowCooper

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 10:47 PM

I use Gylcerine on my rubber components rubber absorbes it, and its used in the manufacturing process, it make it supple and less prone to cracking. Obviously no good if the rubber is poor quality to start with,or the rubber content is weak.


Edited by KernowCooper, 09 July 2014 - 10:57 PM.


#21 firstforward

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 08:36 AM

I wonder if there's something you can apply to the rubbers to prevent cracking from drying and exposure to salt on the roads, maybe a silicon spray. Just a thought  =]

 

They should "apply" a bit more money at the point of manufacture and the buyers should specify the rubber is to the correct specification. I am not a chemist but DuPont have all the Data as to the correct mix and this should be the standard they demand. We of course would have to pay a lot more but that I can live with. Seriously though everything I have purchased from all suppliers with rubber is utter rubbish. Why do I want to buy something for £5.00 to HAVE to replace at my time and expense 9 months later, I would prefer to pay £20 and be sure its OK for a few years.



#22 DannyTip

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 12:19 PM

Im running some NOS stock CV boots from the 70's on my 90's car for this very reason.



#23 The Matt

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 01:35 PM

Why do I want to buy something for £5.00 to HAVE to replace at my time and expense 9 months later, I would prefer to pay £20 and be sure its OK for a few years.


Unfortunately, I imagine a lot of people want cheaper, not better.

#24 firstforward

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 01:38 PM

Well if that is so they should offer both.



#25 The Matt

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 01:46 PM

True!

#26 PaulColeman

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 07:11 PM

I've replaced all the rubber on the front of the car now with replacements from Mini Sport.

 

Time will tell how they perform...

 

Paul.



#27 Webstercon

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 07:43 PM

 

I wonder if there's something you can apply to the rubbers to prevent cracking from drying and exposure to salt on the roads, maybe a silicon spray. Just a thought  =]

 

They should "apply" a bit more money at the point of manufacture and the buyers should specify the rubber is to the correct specification. I am not a chemist but DuPont have all the Data as to the correct mix and this should be the standard they demand. We of course would have to pay a lot more but that I can live with. Seriously though everything I have purchased from all suppliers with rubber is utter rubbish. Why do I want to buy something for £5.00 to HAVE to replace at my time and expense 9 months later, I would prefer to pay £20 and be sure its OK for a few years.

 

I understand this and agree that they should invest more money in a better quality product, it was just a thought that given the lack of choice for rubber parts maybe a little maintenance or protection may help stretch some more time out of the parts. I can completely understand the argument for better quality parts but price isn't necessarily an indicator of quality especially when comparing various suppliers. I expect that keeping the parts stored in a big warehouse for any lengthy period doesn't help the longevity of the rubber either. 



#28 richmondclassicsnorthwales

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Posted 14 August 2014 - 05:28 PM

Rubber is crap these days, sorry, but it is. Does not matter whether it is OE or Copy.

Brake fluid on rubber helps preserve it a little more than leaving it dry, do not use oil.

You will be surprised where the components come from, origin wise, I am saying no more, even reputable companies.

I am careful where I buy my stock!!!!!

 

Neil.....................................



#29 Gerbil367

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Posted 15 August 2014 - 06:49 PM

Guys, asked this same question in another thread, but really need an answer so apologies if you see it twice - I need to change both the steering rack gaiters and the track rod rubber cap things - do I need a ball-joint separator?  After taking off the track rod securing nut what do I need to loosen to be able to get the track rod out of the swivel hub - do I need to dismantle all of it just to get these bits of rubber replaced??  Sorry, Im not too good at this and was hoping it was a quick half hour or so each side? (or more like an hour for me).  Appreciate any help



#30 Chance

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Posted 15 August 2014 - 07:36 PM

Once the nut is off you need to split the track rod end from the steering arm...which is attached to the swivel hub

Sometimes they can be hard to split so you need a ball joint separator
If not then I think it can be done by hitting the steering arm from each side at the same time

A lot easier with a proper ball joint splitter... I use the heavy handed fork type but scissor is supposed to be more friendly

Once split you can unscrew the track rod end from the steering rack...taking note of how many turns it takes to get off so you can put it back on in the same place

Then remove the clips from the gaitor
Slide/pull it off and slide the new one on

Then refit the clips/ties and everything else in reverse

Roughly correct i think




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