41 replies to this topic

[adam_93rio]

I don't understand why it matters that they are a metric thread though?

 
It doesn't matter, Adam, it's just that in terms of best engineering practice it is good to keep what were Imperial threads as Imperial threads and the spanner sizes as original.  
Having said that I do have a few metric threads on my 'S', namely with the Riv-Nuts and socket head screws holding the additional instrument panels in place and the ones used to fit the lamp steady straps. Both are M4, but are for additional to original.
But of course, the Rover idiots mixed threads, most noticeably on the braking system with 3/8" UNF at one end and M10 Fine at the other (you couldn't make it up!).

I was thinking you might of said it as if the metric threads weren't as strong or something like that.
And I have a rover late carbed mini so I'm used to just having a mix match from the factory anyway

[Scoop77]

It's just me but I prefer to drop them in from the top but with nylocks I suppose it doesn't matter.
Mine is a '94 Pete so I'm guessing mine will have the mix of threads being a Rover?

[DomCr250]

 

 

Those captive nut ones are terrible to use, the way to line the holes up easily is to put a screwdriver in and move the mount a bit til it lines up properly. You can't really do this with the captive ones for risk of damaging the thread, which is really difficult to not damage when putting the bolt in anyway.
Surely taking the radiator off is a lot easier than farting about for ages trying to get the bolt through?
Mine have been through the opposite way before and with locking nuts never came loose
I don't understand why it matters that they are a metric thread though?

The rad was out when I was doing this. You need hands the size of a five year old for that one!

Or long fingers ;)
I just went out and looked at mine and I've still got the bolts through from the bottom, so it was always just a case of putting the nut on, for which I normally put the but in the ring end of a spanner with a bit of insulation tape on so it doesn't fall out

 

thats the way I always did it on the a series lumps ... insulation tape or even masking tape wrapped round a smallish half inch ring spanner - line the holes up from the outside with a phillips, drop the bolt through from the inside with the help of the taped ring spanner.  Glad to see the old school solutions are still in use.

[Scoop77]

Duct tape I have. Will try this next time. I don't have a welder yet Pete.

[Cooperman]

I've got a little magnetic 'gizmo' which clips onto a ring or open-ended spanner and holds a nut in place. Magic bit of kit, but hardly ever used now.

As above, I always put the bolt in from the outside, but now I always weld the nuts onto the mounting.

I was wondering if the nuts could be put in place with JB Weld or Araldite Steel adhesive. After all, it is only to locate them whilst the bolts are started. But then it would not be possible to line them up with a thin Philips screwdriver as they would break off

Edited by Cooperman, 10 July 2014 - 10:32 PM.

[Scoop77]

What is this gizmo? Can we have a pic?
The JB weld idea could be good.
I think I'm gonna have a play with my variation on the width of the mount.

Edited by Scoop77, 10 July 2014 - 10:47 PM.

[Tupers]

I use one of these to drop the bolt down through then engine mounts. There's definitely a knack to getting the bolts in, it's just one of those things that's never super simple. 

[cmonson]

I know that this is an older thread. 

I kind of like the engine mounts with the captive nuts.
I just put some short studs in the mount to use as locators for the holes.  I ground off the exposed threads of the stud and put a small taper on them.  just a little wiggle once the engine is down and they just slide in. 
Once the engine is in pull the studs and put in the bolts.  I opened up the holes in the subframe a touch too - helps with the wiggle to align everything. 

All in all it works pretty good.  

[nicklouse]

They are total *******. Bolts fitted incorrectly and when the nut captive fails you are in a world of pain.

[Spider]

I know that this is an older thread. 

I kind of like the engine mounts with the captive nuts.
I just put some short studs in the mount to use as locators for the holes.  I ground off the exposed threads of the stud and put a small taper on them.  just a little wiggle once the engine is down and they just slide in. 
Once the engine is in pull the studs and put in the bolts.  I opened up the holes in the subframe a touch too - helps with the wiggle to align everything. 

All in all it works pretty good.  

 

Can we come back after you try to get the bolts out next ?

Fitting the bolts the way the factory did really is a piece of cake - with the right tool,,,,,

 

 

[cmonson]

They are total *******. Bolts fitted incorrectly and when the nut captive fails you are in a world of pain.

For what its worth I was a little aspersive to use them at first.  but then talked with no less than 10 people and they all loved them.  Maybe you just got a bad set when you tried to use them. 

[cmonson]

 

I know that this is an older thread. 

I kind of like the engine mounts with the captive nuts.
I just put some short studs in the mount to use as locators for the holes.  I ground off the exposed threads of the stud and put a small taper on them.  just a little wiggle once the engine is down and they just slide in. 
Once the engine is in pull the studs and put in the bolts.  I opened up the holes in the subframe a touch too - helps with the wiggle to align everything. 

All in all it works pretty good.  

 

Can we come back after you try to get the bolts out next ?

Fitting the bolts the way the factory did really is a piece of cake - with the right tool,,,,,

 

 

Pulled the engine last night.  No issues

Edited by cmonson, 22 July 2025 - 10:56 PM.

[Steam]

The mounts with captive nuts are a total PITA. I spent way too much time screwwing around with them last time I did it, ended up fitting normal ones after the frustration got the better of me.
Thay may sound like a good idea but in reality they make an already hard job near impossible.

[Spider]

Pulled the engine last night.  No issues

 

I can see you think you like these and sorry, I should have included there 'after they have been in a while (which includes driving it a bit etc)' give it say 6 - 12 months,,,

For what ever it's worth, I was manufacturing and retailing this type of mount back in the 80's but dropped them from the range after 2 years and too many bad experiences.
 

[DeadSquare]

For 60 years, I have been welding some 30mm long tags of 1/4" round bar (Used to come from the nails in the ashes of burnt pallets) to the top of the setscrew, not like a T but like an L.

 

I push my welded tag into a bit of rubber petrol pipe and use the pipe, as per the dining fork, to insert the setscrew through the engine mount and subframe.  Having lightly screwed on the nut, I pull off the rubber tube and the tag saves trying to get a spanner on the head of the setscrew.