21 replies to this topic

[adam_93rio]

I don't understand why it matters that they are a metric thread though?

 
It doesn't matter, Adam, it's just that in terms of best engineering practice it is good to keep what were Imperial threads as Imperial threads and the spanner sizes as original.  
Having said that I do have a few metric threads on my 'S', namely with the Riv-Nuts and socket head screws holding the additional instrument panels in place and the ones used to fit the lamp steady straps. Both are M4, but are for additional to original.
But of course, the Rover idiots mixed threads, most noticeably on the braking system with 3/8" UNF at one end and M10 Fine at the other (you couldn't make it up!).

I was thinking you might of said it as if the metric threads weren't as strong or something like that.
And I have a rover late carbed mini so I'm used to just having a mix match from the factory anyway

[Scoop77]

It's just me but I prefer to drop them in from the top but with nylocks I suppose it doesn't matter.
Mine is a '94 Pete so I'm guessing mine will have the mix of threads being a Rover?

[DomCr250]

 

 

Those captive nut ones are terrible to use, the way to line the holes up easily is to put a screwdriver in and move the mount a bit til it lines up properly. You can't really do this with the captive ones for risk of damaging the thread, which is really difficult to not damage when putting the bolt in anyway.
Surely taking the radiator off is a lot easier than farting about for ages trying to get the bolt through?
Mine have been through the opposite way before and with locking nuts never came loose
I don't understand why it matters that they are a metric thread though?

The rad was out when I was doing this. You need hands the size of a five year old for that one!

Or long fingers ;)
I just went out and looked at mine and I've still got the bolts through from the bottom, so it was always just a case of putting the nut on, for which I normally put the but in the ring end of a spanner with a bit of insulation tape on so it doesn't fall out

 

thats the way I always did it on the a series lumps ... insulation tape or even masking tape wrapped round a smallish half inch ring spanner - line the holes up from the outside with a phillips, drop the bolt through from the inside with the help of the taped ring spanner.  Glad to see the old school solutions are still in use.

[Scoop77]

Duct tape I have. Will try this next time. I don't have a welder yet Pete.

[Cooperman]

I've got a little magnetic 'gizmo' which clips onto a ring or open-ended spanner and holds a nut in place. Magic bit of kit, but hardly ever used now.

As above, I always put the bolt in from the outside, but now I always weld the nuts onto the mounting.

I was wondering if the nuts could be put in place with JB Weld or Araldite Steel adhesive. After all, it is only to locate them whilst the bolts are started. But then it would not be possible to line them up with a thin Philips screwdriver as they would break off

Edited by Cooperman, 10 July 2014 - 10:32 PM.

[Scoop77]

What is this gizmo? Can we have a pic?
The JB weld idea could be good.
I think I'm gonna have a play with my variation on the width of the mount.

Edited by Scoop77, 10 July 2014 - 10:47 PM.

[Tupers]

I use one of these to drop the bolt down through then engine mounts. There's definitely a knack to getting the bolts in, it's just one of those things that's never super simple.