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Clutch Throwout Nut Won't Go All The Way.


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#1 Doodling

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 05:51 PM

( I have serched but to no avail)
Pre verto clutch with long lever on a 1275. The bite point is very low, I only have to twitch my foot and it bites but there is no clutch slip, just a occasional grind into gears and reverse.
Fully bled and all adjusted, however!!
My question??
With the clutch peddle held down I'm unable to screw the throwout nut all the way in the cover. I'm a good 5mm off.
Is it a case of a new clutch or am I missing something.

#2 Jordie

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 05:52 PM

Sounds like you arent getting enough throw/push.

 

Is the rod into the slave worn? or prehaps the arm?



#3 cambiker71

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 05:53 PM

Worn push rod and the ball end on the clutch arm :D

Edited by cambiker71, 16 July 2014 - 05:54 PM.


#4 KernowCooper

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 06:00 PM

Have you set the clearance up on the 7/16af nut between arm and bolt head?

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#5 Doodling

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 06:45 PM

Have you set the clearance up on the 7/16af nut between arm and bolt head?


Yes set the gap to 20 tho.
What should the rod length be??

#6 Stevie W

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 07:24 PM

Mr Cooperman on here has a very good guide to setting up a clutch.

He speaks of making some basic checks to see if the system is working correctly before looking deeper into the set-up.

Make sure you have at least 0.55" linear movement on the push-rod coming out of the slave cylinder (the top of the clutch arm moves at least 0.55" for a full press of the clutch pedal).

If you don't have this amount of movement, you need to look at the master/slave cylinder and hose and also the pedal clevis pin for wear, before going further.

Cheers, Steve.

Edited by Stevie W, 16 July 2014 - 07:24 PM.


#7 Doodling

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 07:33 PM

Make sure you have at least 0.55" linear movement on the push-rod coming out of the slave cylinder (the top of the clutch arm moves at least 0.55" for a full press of the clutch pedal).
Sorry to be a pain but could you clarify the 0.55". It it 5.1/2 inch, or 140mm.
Cheers

#8 Cooperman

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 07:38 PM

It is 0.55", that is 1/2" plus 50 thousanths of an inch. We tend to work in Imperial, i.e. inch, units as that is how the Mini was designed and all the bolts & nuts are in inch sizes. It just seems to make it easier.



#9 Doodling

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 07:49 PM

👍🍻
Cheers I'll check tomorrow.

#10 GraemeC

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 08:30 PM

If it helps you to have metric:
0.55" x 25.4 (mm per inch) = 13.97mm

#11 minimender

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 09:10 PM

Some clutches had the arm bent towards the cylinder and some were straight, must have been year specific.

I had to fit a longer push rod into the slave cylinder to make one of mine work

#12 Mini ManannĂ¡n

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 05:57 AM

Cooperman's clutch drag fault-finder: http://www.theminifo...problems/page-2

 

I'm not stalking you Dave!  I have a folder of about 50 "useful mini links" on my browser, you seem to feature a lot, that's all! :D



#13 Doodling

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 06:42 PM

Clutch arm has full movement an the is no play in the arm itself. There's no damage to the clutch flexy pipe and I've rebled it.
The gear selection is now getting worse so it's off with the bell housing and hopefully clutch ( no pully) tomorrow and see what's amiss.

#14 Doodling

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Posted 27 July 2014 - 09:14 AM

Found this when I finally removed the bell housing, can you name the broken part??

The clutch doesn't look to be the main problem.
Just need a flywheel puller and a shopping trip.

Edited by Doodling, 27 July 2014 - 09:16 AM.


#15 Jordie

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Posted 27 July 2014 - 11:07 AM

clutch bearing

 

seems to have come apart.

 

minispares will have them and show a diagram of it.






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