19 replies to this topic

[ToM 2012]

Hi I am going to make a start on petrol tank soon and I would like to know the best way the best finish and the safest way? Can I get it shot blasted and powder coated? Or would this make problems from stuff going inside the tank? It's really rusty with surface rust do would shot blasting be the best way or is there a specialist place out there to send them? Any help would be great thanks tom

[KernowCooper]

Whats it like inside if the outsides that bad Tom, maybe better so source a replacement tank

[ANON]

blasting is fine for the outside as is powder coating, can use chassis black etc...

for the inside clean with acid, something decent though, done loads of bike ones, works fine.

[dklawson]

As above, if it the tank is trashed on the inside as well as out, it will be easier to find another tank in better shape.  If you decide to keep the tank, sandblast with caution.  The sides of the tank are relatively large and flat and panels like that tend to warp when media blasted.  Some swear by soda blasting as a method of cleaning without risking distortion.  I'm sure Anon above will have some good recommendations.

 

Failing that, chemical strippers followed by wire brushing will work.  To clean the inside of the tank, start with a strong caustic cleaner to remove old fuel gum and varnish.  To speed this up, place handfuls of old nuts and bolts in the tank and slosh the tank around with the cleaner.  Leave the tank sitting then slosh some more.  Don't rush this.  Spend a day with the caustic cleaner.  The next day drain and rinse the tank with water.  Replace the caustic with phosphoric acid.  Leave the nuts and bolts in and repeat the day of sitting and sloshing you used with the caustic.  Finally rinse the tank with water, drain, and blow dry with compressed air.  NOTE:  Watch the tank during the acid washing.  The tank is very thin at the bottom where it is welded together.  If there was bad rusting inside the tank before... you may open pin holes when the rust is removed.  Pinholes mean more repair work for you or applying a tank liner.

 

I doubt you will find anyone willing to powder coat a used fuel tank.  Though the risk of explosion is very low, powder paint is still a high temperature baking process and I doubt their insurance will allow them to coat used fuel tanks.  There is also the issue of the plastic filter head on the fuel pickup tube inside the tank.  Depending on the paint temperature, that may melt in the process which could block the pickup tube.

Edited by dklawson, 11 September 2014 - 01:36 AM.

[ToM 2012]

here is some pictures for you all is it savable? the inside has slight surface rust. 

 

 

also can this be taken of or is it fixed constant? what does it do? 

 

 

thanks tom 

[dklawson]

I looked at the additional pictures in your photobucket folder.  That appears to be an early (pre-1965) tank.  Is the car also of that age and what about the gauges?  I ask because your decision about fixing the tank will depend in large part on how original you want the car to be and what components you have for the fuel sending unit and fuel gauge.  I will explain more (if you wish) once I know what you have for a gauge and sending unit and what your intentions are for the car.

[Dr s]

My tank was blasted and powder coated by the mini restoration company. Looks great

Had been empty a few year mind

[ToM 2012]

the model i am restoring is a super deluxe 1963 i have the original guages and the sender unit is original with loads of screws all the way around it and the wires have to be tightened with screws.. instead of push on. i want it to be original as it was.. thanks tom 

[ToM 2012]

My tank was blasted and powder coated by the mini restoration company. Looks great

Had been empty a few year tho  

hi mate i am going to get it blasted but not sure what way to have the tank finished powder coated i think will be harder to scratch of then paint? but paint was the original way i want the best finish i can get.. thanks tom 

[dklawson]

Since you have the rest of the original gauge parts then by all means fix the tank you have.  If your tank has been bone dry for years you may be able to get it powder coated as Drs did.  It won't hurt to ask a local powder coater to handle both stripping and painting.  It will be worth it to save the original tank and instruments.

[AndyR]

If powder coating, make sure there is no residue from the powder coating process inside the tank (they should have masked off though) as the fuel will react with the powder coat and may block up your filter/lines/pump.  I have used the por15 fuel tank system with great results, as an alternative.

 

Andy

[ToM 2012]

cheers all hoping to get it sent of next week sometime. what is that pipe thing underneath the tank tho? do they unscrew or are they fixed? thanks tom 

[A-Cell]

Early mk1 cars had a drain fitted. I think this is it. Was a screw plug, with a tube on with a corresponding rubber bung in the boot floor. Reckon that's what this is, with the pipe bent (and rusty) and the rubber bung attached.
Not really required? So if you remove it and weld a patch over the hole it won't be seen when installed.

[ToM 2012]

thanks for that dont suppose you no if i can buy a new one to fit on the end? and if i cant shall i just leave it as it is and try and clean it up? thanks tom 

Edited by ToM 2012, 12 September 2014 - 09:41 PM.

[jpw1275]

Hi tom.... I would just strip the paint off , I used a 2k scratch resistant paint on mine then polished it up.... To be honest the inside doesn't look that bad buddy.... For piece of mind you could always line the tank and frost restorations in Rochdale do these as I've done many a monkey bike tank with great results

Cheers James