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Brand New Head Gasket... Coolant Leaking!


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#16 RooBoonix

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 08:03 PM

Well we're confused. The gasket has no sealing rings around the larger water ways or some of the smaller ones and even the smaller ones with the copper sealing rings were all leaking.

My friend thinks 68nm is a little low... but I am going to buy a new head gasket and try again.

Cam.

#17 cal844

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 08:04 PM

Buy a payen type

#18 RooBoonix

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 09:05 PM

I believe the one in the kit was a BK450! Its not 100% clear though. I'll see what happens.

Are there supposed to be rubber/remove able seals to put in the gasket where copper ones aren't built in?

 

EDIT: I'm going to buy a Copper head gasket from Minispares, the GEG300 one. 


Edited by RooBoonix, 22 September 2014 - 10:07 PM.


#19 Earwax

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 10:24 PM

quite a few builders DO NOT add coolant until after a seal is achieved... ie run straight water for a couple of days..... it could be superstition or could be some property of the glycol that doesn't assist the seal? and i know of a few who don't add water until the second heat cycle....   i personally prefer some water in the system with the radiator cap open .... THIS INFO IS NOT A RECOMMENDATION but for your consideration



#20 Jordie

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 05:56 AM

BK450 is the best gasket. Maybe you had one from a dodgy batch?



#21 timmy850

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 06:22 AM

quite a few builders DO NOT add coolant until after a seal is achieved... ie run straight water for a couple of days..... it could be superstition or could be some property of the glycol that doesn't assist the seal? and i know of a few who don't add water until the second heat cycle....   i personally prefer some water in the system with the radiator cap open .... THIS INFO IS NOT A RECOMMENDATION but for your consideration

I've also done this - maybe out of superstition - but it's worked every time (and the one time I used coolant straight away it did leak). Plus, it means even if it does leak, or spill into the oil you don't waste your money on coolant..

 

Is it also possible the head/block were not perfectly clean and dry before the gasket went on?



#22 RooBoonix

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 07:01 AM

I only put water in it... no coolant/antifreeze.

It's a possibility the gasket I had was the one that looked the same as the bk450 but was the cheaper version? It seemed really thin (1mm thin..)

Cam

#23 Jordie

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 07:27 AM

I guess its possible. I always buy the BK450 from a good supplier and had no issues.



#24 Gr4h4m

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 07:51 AM

Make sure all of the surfaces are spotless, and oil free. Make sure that there is no oil down the thread stud holes.
Make sure the head is also spotless so no black ring marks and also oil free.

Is always check the gasket for any debris stuck to it.

Put the gasket on the block and ensure all of the holes line up, then screw the head studs in.

Put a nut on a head stud and screw it to the bottom of the thread, measure the gap between the block and the bottom of the nut and make sure that it's smaller than the thickness of the head.

When you put the head on make sure that the bypass hose (if you have one)has lined up and isn't holding the head in the air, and check that the hose isn't too long so you have a small gap before you torque the head down

Also make sure all of the rockers are wound off so your not compressing the valve springs when you tighten the nuts up

Also check that your torque wrench is reading correctly.

Hopefully the second install is a smooth one..

Edited by Gr4h4m, 23 September 2014 - 07:53 AM.


#25 racingbob

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 08:26 AM

I had a faulty payen copper head gasket 2 years  ago

 

minispares gave me a new one so got a bk450

 

I have never had a problem putting in antifreeze

 

but I use the Halfords one for older cars

 

how far is it best to knock back the rocker adjusters ?



#26 racingbob

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 08:30 AM

68nm is 50 so wouldn't go any more than that

 

I have used 45 in the past and been fine



#27 RooBoonix

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 10:40 AM

Thanks guys, hopefully Minispares will give me a new one as compensation.

 

I'll give them a ring later.

 

Cam.



#28 GraemeC

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 12:32 PM

As Graham mentioned - check your torque wrench is reading correctly or borrow a known good one.



#29 sonikk4

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 02:17 PM

I did get a poor HG from Minispares which leaked so they did send me a Payen HG and no issues. This was on my 998. Do not deviate away from the torque figures given no matter what a mate "says"

That figure is also in the older workshop manuals so it is for for purpose. Overtorquing the nuts could shear the studs.

#30 RooBoonix

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 02:56 PM

Just spoke to Minispares and they said that they aren't aware of any problems. May send them a pic of mine to see if they can shed some light on it. If not i'll probably end up buying either a BK450 or GEG300 performance copper one.

 

I will stick to the given torque settings. Is it easy to test mine? It's a brand new Sealey one, goes up to 112 nm. I'll check the sheet that came with it which has all the results from the tests in the factory on it, and see if it's under/over torquing.

 

Cam.






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