
Refurbishing Parts
#16
Posted 27 September 2014 - 01:32 PM
Your right lots of parts I want to protect for limited money but with maximum effect. I've found a local blaster so I will see if that cost if that makes it worth while
#17
Posted 27 September 2014 - 03:20 PM
So degrease and clean, electrolysis, POR and POR again or POR and then another top coat or just POR.
Not quite what I meant to convey.
Electrolysis is one method of removing rust and it does a good job on larger parts. Media blasting and acid cleaning also do a good job. Depending on what I am doing and the available time I may use any of these methods or a combination of them. Electrolysis will work on smaller things but you may find you need to tinker with how to connect to them. Doing many small parts at one time by electrolysis is possible but will require some thought.
I did not mean to imply one coat of POR and then something else. You have to apply 2 coats of POR. The first coat is applied and when it is just barely tacky but not wet, the second coat is applied. If you choose to apply a top coat you will want a primer on top of POR. As I said, I have not tried their new family of POR specific primers so I don't know how well they work. However, you can fog coat the slightly tacky (but not wet) second coat of POR. After you give the POR and your fog coat of primer a day to cure you can apply a "real" coat of your primer followed by whatever additional prep you want to make and finally your top coat. You can leave POR uncovered if you want. However, I would not do that on areas that are going to be out where people will see them. For example, a subframe finished in black POR will be fine, pieces of exposed black trim will not look good after prolonged sun exposure.
#18
Posted 27 September 2014 - 04:53 PM
acid is a nice cheap way of getting rust off, go for a nice strong wheel cleaner. you can get 5 litres for under a tenner that will do a hell of a lot!! rinse off in a solution of something like bicarb, i do loads of petrol tanks this way and it works a treat.
por or chassis black for coating.
#19
Posted 27 September 2014 - 05:34 PM
Cheers James
#20
Posted 28 September 2014 - 05:13 PM
Thanks again
#21
Posted 28 September 2014 - 09:27 PM
#22
Posted 29 September 2014 - 12:15 AM
IHave people use all of the three stages before POR'ing eg, marine clearer?
I believe I mentioned in earlier posts that for POR to work you must have the proper surface preparation. YES. Use all the POR prep chemicals as described in their instructions. If you do not follow the POR instructions you are likely to experience a failure of the coating. In addition to using their Marine Clean and Metal Ready (or whatever they call the caustic cleaners and acid washes these days) you may want to sandblast the surface after the Marine Clean and BEFORE the acid etch). The rough surface left by media blasting will provide a good "tooth" to anchor the POR to the surface.
#23
Posted 29 September 2014 - 11:09 AM
what does everyone do with their waste liquids?
#24
Posted 29 September 2014 - 11:58 AM
One word of warning; don't get POR15 on your skin.
It seems the more you wash it the harder it gets!
It's bl00dy good stuff though, but buy in smaller cans as it'll soon go off once opened.
Mike
#25
Posted 29 September 2014 - 12:06 PM
The biggest issue with Hammerite is the reaction you get if you use any other paint over it. I would certainly not us it now as there are better products out there like POR.
#26
Posted 29 September 2014 - 02:49 PM
It seems the more you wash it the harder it gets!
It probably does. It dries quicker and better in moist environments!
Definitely don't get it on your skin, it won't come off until that layer of skin has actually shed off.
#27
Posted 30 September 2014 - 02:59 PM
Get reconditioned arms, up here we get them for £38 per side exchange, then just hammerite them
Hullo,
That sounds pretty good to me, I need some good refurbished Radius Arms for my Mini Thirty. What exactly have these Arms had done to them.
Archie.
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