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Best Head And Cam For A 998


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#1 Minigirl

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 08:47 PM

What would the best head and cam be to go with for a 998? 

 

Currently have a bad oil leak so most likely going to take the engine out to sort it but while out I was thinking of changing the cam and head.

 

Since the engine is out would a 12g240 be best with the block pocketed? 

 

I was also looking to Turbo in the future so wanted the cam and head to be future proof for that

 

Thanks



#2 crazirob

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 08:58 PM

yes a 12g940 and pocketing is worth it are you planning on boring the block also ? cam choice it depends what you want, instant power or to rev the nuts off it ?



#3 Minigirl

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 09:16 PM

block has supposedly already been bored out to 1000cc 

 

mainly looking for instant power



#4 Matt1293

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 09:31 PM

For a nice sporty 998 a 12g295 head (no modification to the block), kent 266 cam, LCB manifold and a HIF SU carb. If you're going to pocket the block, it's worth putting bigger Pistons in while you're at it ;)

#5 coopdog

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 09:34 PM

For a nice sporty 998 a 12g295 head (no modification to the block), kent 266 cam, LCB manifold and a HIF SU carb. If you're going to pocket the block, it's worth putting bigger Pistons in while you're at it ;)


+1

Or a mg metro cam

#6 Matt1293

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 09:37 PM

For a nice sporty 998 a 12g295 head (no modification to the block), kent 266 cam, LCB manifold and a HIF SU carb. If you're going to pocket the block, it's worth putting bigger Pistons in while you're at it ;)


+1
Or a mg metro cam

Also a good choice!

#7 crazirob

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 09:39 PM

pocket the block, hiff or su carb sw5 cam or as stated a 266 or a mg metro cam



#8 Cooperman

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 09:40 PM

If it 1000 cc it has not been bored. (998 is as near 1000 as you can get). Best head will be a 12G295 suitably gas-flowed with better induction & exhaust and with a compression ratio of around 10:1.

If intending to fit forced induction later it may not be worth doing a higher powered normally aspirated engine. This is because to get a N/A engine to work the compression ratio will need to be increased and the head gas-flowed to achieve. Then to go to a forced induction the compression ratio will need to be seriously reduced which will probably mean a new head together with new pistons.

Building a forced induction engine is not just a case of bolting on a turbo-charger or a supercharger. The entire engine must be re-built with the correct parts for the forced induction. 

I mention this because I once had to repair the mess caused by someone who did not understand this. It cost over £1500 to put right with all new Omega pistons, as different head with larger combustion chambers, full strip and rebuild plus some other bits to make it correct. Even when this has been done a Mini is still not going to be a quick car, just not quire so slow ;D .



#9 Minigirl

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 07:51 AM

I was just going by what the last owner said which is why I want to take it apart as well as I dont trust him now after all the problems and mistakes that have been made with the mini he sold us. (near enough all sorted now)

 

He said it was a fully rebuilt engine with only 13 miles on it yet the oil was completely black old stuff...

 

I already have fitted by the previous owner (except the carb as I replaced that) -

 

HiF38 (got a hif44 in the garage that I removed)

K&N Cone filter

Full Maniflow LCB system 1.75"

Electronic Fuel pump

Aldon Yellow dizzy

 

 

I dont really want to goto the expense of new pistons as well lol



#10 Jase71

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 08:43 AM

Sorry to hi-jack the thread but I want to do the same to my 998, OK with the head, LCB and carb, whats the best cam for instant power?

#11 Carlos W

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 08:50 AM

Inspect the bores and see if it needs re-bored.

 

The power you'll gain from the extra CC is very little.

 

You need to decide if you want to run a turbo or not before chucking money at it.

 

A well flowed head and decent cam will give good improvements with a good set up 



#12 PhilipGCaldwell

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 08:53 AM

I built a fast road 998, from experience now dont go above 266 cam, I put in a 276 kent and it idles no problem but its just a tad sluggish under 2500 rpm, this is in turn due to me using an inaproppriate exhaust though too.

 

My Spec - 12g940 (home ported), pocketed block at work, 276 cam, stage 1 kit, hiff44 with ITG ram air kit, ultralight flywheel and backplate, megajolt ignition



#13 Minigirl

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 09:38 AM

I would like to go turbo at some stage. I suppose I could always swap heads with some one when that day comes. Can you not get thicker head gaskets to reduce the compression ratio?

 

I just thought while the engine was out I would stick a cam in :-)

 

Is there a way to check what cam is fitted at the moment without  stripping it down? 



#14 coopdog

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 10:40 AM

I would like to go turbo at some stage. I suppose I could always swap heads with some one when that day comes. Can you not get thicker head gaskets to reduce the compression ratio?
 
I just thought while the engine was out I would stick a cam in :-)
 
Is there a way to check what cam is fitted at the moment without  stripping it down? 


There isn't any way you can check :(

#15 Dusky

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 12:21 PM

You can check the lift at the pushrods, thats something




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