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Ford 1.0L Ecoboost Issues...


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#16 lyndseyp27

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 11:32 AM

I'd be tempted to temporarely put the standard map back in and them have the ecu refreshed with the appropiriate decoder at a local garage

How long has it been running on the Bluefin?

 

Just shy of a year :(



#17 jaydee

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 11:35 AM

Ok so its simply getting some random code from a sensor

As Millican said, swap the map back to original and connect it up for an ECU read and refresh at a local garage

They shouldnt charge you as much as a ford dealer.



#18 lyndseyp27

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 11:36 AM

Ok so its simply getting some random code from a sensor

As Millican said, swap the map back to original and connect it up for an ECU read and refresh at a local garage

They shouldnt charge you as much as a ford dealer.

Thank you - will do



#19 Ben_O

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 11:57 AM

Good luck!



#20 lyndseyp27

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 11:59 AM

Good luck!

Thanks treacle



#21 Ben_O

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 12:07 PM

Damn, run out of likes! I've only been signed in 10 mins  O_O

 

Let us know how you get on!



#22 matt050990

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 12:10 PM

 

Good luck!

Thanks treacle

 

Treacle? TREACLE!?



#23 Ben_O

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 12:13 PM

 

 

Good luck!

Thanks treacle

 

Treacle? TREACLE!?

 

I like it, it's a nice refreshing change from old man  :lol:



#24 lyndseyp27

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 12:38 PM

No DTCs showing from my bluefin. Good to go or still get garage to check?

#25 Ben_O

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 01:01 PM

How far have you tested it for?



#26 M J W J

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 02:01 PM

Check all your fluids and if you can check any electrical sensor connector you can get to, to see if they are loose of not. If any of your fluids are low I would start trying to figure out where they have gone as in my experience with fords is that they end up going through the engine where they are not supposed to and screw sensors up. Either that or connectors come loose which cause all sorts of electrical gremlins.

 

You need to get it on a proper diagnostics machine to find out the fault codes. Your Blue Fin is probably only going to be able to access a few of the codes. Most ford cars can display some of them on the instrument cluster if you go through a sequence of pressing the brake pedal, switch to a certain position, etc, but they don't display them all.

 

My Mondeo kept saying that it was fine despite being in limp mode, but when my mate plugged his proper snap on diagnostics equipment in it came back with about a dozen fault codes. My mum's focus was the same.

 

I would not drive to Cardiff until you figure out what was up with it. An excuse to use the mini.



#27 mini93

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 07:15 PM

I have my Audi remapped, eventually clogging up my EGR valve illuminating an engine light on the dash- yellow in colour.

EGR being clogged has lead to a drop off in power and fuel ecconomy.

 

You can either get an ERG deletion code programed in (some cars cant just take a blanking off- like the Audi for example) or take the EGR out, clean it, replace... something I've not got round to because its stuck all the way round the back of the engine >_<



#28 Burnard

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 09:35 PM

You guys are all missing something here, Its a 1.0 eco boost....  It will still be covered by even the most basic 3 year warranty, that car wont be any older than 3 years.

 

 

Take the map off it, take it back to ford and ask them to have a look at it. They wont even charge you, thats why you have a warranty.

 

If you walk in and kick up enough of a fuss they will do it there and then in about 10 minutes. I have had to do similar before with my BMW. 

 

 

Ps, these engines are good in standard form for 170bhp and great little lumps.

I worked it out and it would cost around £7k to put a tuned crate engine into a mini, probably a bit too much money for that level of power. 

 


Edited by Burnard, 30 October 2014 - 09:38 PM.





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