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Body Twisted Shortens Or Bowed


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#1 MINIMADrt

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 10:44 AM

Not sure how to word it.

As this is on a diffrent subject thought I would make a new topic. Other one is boot floor measurements

After a few replies in the body work section I'm a little bit worried now that the body may be a little more damaged than I thought from the accident. How is the best way to no if the body is square and the drivers side hasn't been shunted forward at all I don't think it is but now I'm worried.

Dam these thoughts.

All I want for Christmas is a decent body shell

Any help

#2 Ben_O

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 11:17 AM

Are the subframes fitted to the shell?



#3 MINIMADrt

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 11:25 AM

Yes they are fitted an still all line up nice and true. ( so it seams any way)

#4 MINIMADrt

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 11:26 AM

Why do u ask??

#5 Steve G

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 11:39 AM

Just been looking at the pictures in your other thread. What caused the damage to the seat back panel ? It looks like the arch must have moved a bit.

I would have thought that the door gap would have closed up a bit if things had moved forward , does the heel board and seat base look as it should ? 



#6 MINIMADrt

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 11:45 AM

Yea heal board and base look fine I put the seat panel damage down to the quarter as the pocket seat base and parcel shelf all look fine.

#7 Ben_O

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 12:02 PM

Why do u ask??

With the subframes fitted, you can choose some datum points on each in which to take diagonal measurements from the front to the back. You could then post up these datum points and ask someone with a straight shell to measure theirs using your datum points and compare measurements.

Expect there to be a few mm difference which is fine but if they are far different then that would mean that the heel board has moved.

 

Providing that these measurements are with in tolerance, then you can take body measurements in door apertures etc.

 

Ill have a look at your other thread and see the pictures but if you find that the body shell is twisted or badly out of line, then it's going to be difficult to get it in line unless you have the facilities to do so.

 

Ben 



#8 MINIMADrt

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 12:11 PM


Why do u ask??

With the subframes fitted, you can choose some datum points on each in which to take diagonal measurements from the front to the back. You could then post up these datum points and ask someone with a straight shell to measure theirs using your datum points and compare measurements.
Expect there to be a few mm difference which is fine but if they are far different then that would mean that the heel board has moved.
 
Providing that these measurements are with in tolerance, then you can take body measurements in door apertures etc.
 
Ill have a look at your other thread and see the pictures but if you find that the body shell is twisted or badly out of line, then it's going to be difficult to get it in line unless you have the facilities to do so.
 
Ben 

Ok I will do my best to get measurements late were is the best places to take them from.

#9 Ben_O

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 12:22 PM

 

 

Why do u ask??

With the subframes fitted, you can choose some datum points on each in which to take diagonal measurements from the front to the back. You could then post up these datum points and ask someone with a straight shell to measure theirs using your datum points and compare measurements.
Expect there to be a few mm difference which is fine but if they are far different then that would mean that the heel board has moved.
 
Providing that these measurements are with in tolerance, then you can take body measurements in door apertures etc.
 
Ill have a look at your other thread and see the pictures but if you find that the body shell is twisted or badly out of line, then it's going to be difficult to get it in line unless you have the facilities to do so.
 
Ben 

Ok I will do my best to get measurements late were is the best places to take them from.

 

It's up to you mate. I don't have my frames fitted at the moment and can't think where would be suitable but you need to choose a bolt for instance that is in the same place both sides of the car.

The front frame, you could use the rear toe board mounts if you can get a clear path to them from the rear subframe.

 

Just remember that the measurements need to be taken diagonally.

 

Ill try and find a picture of the underside of a Mini and mark some suggestions on it if that helps?

 

Ben



#10 Carlos W

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 12:24 PM

 

 

 

Why do u ask??

With the subframes fitted, you can choose some datum points on each in which to take diagonal measurements from the front to the back. You could then post up these datum points and ask someone with a straight shell to measure theirs using your datum points and compare measurements.
Expect there to be a few mm difference which is fine but if they are far different then that would mean that the heel board has moved.
 
Providing that these measurements are with in tolerance, then you can take body measurements in door apertures etc.
 
Ill have a look at your other thread and see the pictures but if you find that the body shell is twisted or badly out of line, then it's going to be difficult to get it in line unless you have the facilities to do so.
 
Ben 

Ok I will do my best to get measurements late were is the best places to take them from.

 

It's up to you mate. I don't have my frames fitted at the moment and can't think where would be suitable but you need to choose a bolt for instance that is in the same place both sides of the car.

The front frame, you could use the rear toe board mounts if you can get a clear path to them from the rear subframe.

 

Just remember that the measurements need to be taken diagonally.

 

Ill try and find a picture of the underside of a Mini and mark some suggestions on it if that helps?

 

Ben

 

 

I'm sure it's covered in the Haynes manual



#11 MINIMADrt

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 12:27 PM


 


 

 

Why do u ask??

With the subframes fitted, you can choose some datum points on each in which to take diagonal measurements from the front to the back. You could then post up these datum points and ask someone with a straight shell to measure theirs using your datum points and compare measurements.
Expect there to be a few mm difference which is fine but if they are far different then that would mean that the heel board has moved.
 
Providing that these measurements are with in tolerance, then you can take body measurements in door apertures etc.
 
Ill have a look at your other thread and see the pictures but if you find that the body shell is twisted or badly out of line, then it's going to be difficult to get it in line unless you have the facilities to do so.
 
Ben 
Ok I will do my best to get measurements late were is the best places to take them from.
 
It's up to you mate. I don't have my frames fitted at the moment and can't think where would be suitable but you need to choose a bolt for instance that is in the same place both sides of the car.
The front frame, you could use the rear toe board mounts if you can get a clear path to them from the rear subframe.
 
Just remember that the measurements need to be taken diagonally.
 
Ill try and find a picture of the underside of a Mini and mark some suggestions on it if that helps?
 
Ben
 
 
I'm sure it's covered in the Haynes manual

Cheers all help very appreciated

#12 Ben_O

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 12:32 PM

 


 

I'm sure it's covered in the Haynes manual

 

I think Haynes only covers the measurements to check for square of the actual subframes but don't quote me on that



#13 RossKnight

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 12:36 PM

Only horizontal alignment check

 

scan.jpg



#14 MINIMADrt

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 12:42 PM

Only horizontal alignment check
 
scan.jpg


Ok thank you
So is this what I go by or not I have dragged my Haynes book of lies out so will have a flick through on my lunch.

#15 Cooperman

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 12:53 PM

You need the original BMC Workshop Manual which has all the dimensions shown

Lots for sale on ebay for around £10 and a much better manual than a Haynes so long as you know what you are doing in principle.






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