13 replies to this topic

[olliewiltshire]

Hi guy i have a 1.3 metro engine which i have just upgraded to electronic ignition and put on a 65DM4 Distributor with a Lucas DLB198 Electronic coil. i used to have non-ballasted coil and points. So i run a 12v feed from the top fuse on the fuse bank right down to the coil +. i then took the positive and minus from the coil down to the two pin module at the side of the dizzy. After doing this i thought i would try and start it but it didn't start  

following it not starting i checked for a spark which there wasn't one. 

 

I then followed the "testing coils" topic to try and trace the problem but it all seemed ok. The coil had a primary resistance of 0.9 ohms and a secondary of 9,000 ohms. i then placed a low voltage bulb over the + and - of the coil and turned off the engine which flashed the bulb. 

 

The ht leads are working fine as they were brand new last week. so i have narrowed it down to being a dizzy problem.

 

i brought this from a friend who said it was brand new but it was one he had just never used. 

 

Is there a way for me to be able to test the module on the side of the dizzy or the dizzy its self? 

 

Any help would be much appreciated as i have been scratching my head over this or the past few days .

 

[dklawson]

Where and how were you checking for spark?  How did you set the ignition timing after fitting the new distributor?

[olliewiltshire]

Where and how were you checking for spark?  How did you set the ignition timing after fitting the new distributor?

i took the plug out, kept it plugged into the ht lead and held it against the the head bolt. i then turned it over and i didnt get any spark. I put the dizzy back in the same position as the last one came out. is there a way to set the ignition timing without the engine started then?

[Ethel]

Timing won't account for the lack of spark. If you detach both the LT wires to the dizzy and replace with a -ve to earth you should be able to make a plug spark if the rotor arm is in the right position with the dizzy cap. That should help you narrow it down to the dizzy.

[olliewiltshire]

Timing won't account for the lack of spark. If you detach both the LT wires to the dizzy and replace with a -ve to earth you should be able to make a plug spark if the rotor arm is in the right position with the dizzy cap. That should help you narrow it down to the dizzy.

Ethel what does -VE mean? sorry if its a silly question

[dklawson]

What Ethel is suggesting is to take the module out of the system to test the coil.  The reference to -VE is the coil's negative terminal... the one with the wire going to the ignition module or points.

 

In your case, mark and disconnect the ignition module wires from the coil.  Leave the supply wire from the ignition switch on the coil (+) terminal.

Take the high tension lead from the center of the dizzy cap and rest it on a cloth placed on top of the cylinder head.  The end of the wire should not directly touch the head but have a gap of perhaps 1/16" to anything metal.

Make a jumper wire and connect it to the coil (-) terminal.

Turn the ignition key to the run position and tap (tap, not hold) the copper from the other end of the jumper wire to a bare metal spot on the engine.

Each time you lift the jumper wire OFF the engine, the coil should create the voltage for a spark... so listen carefully and watch the end of the high-tension lead determine if you can hear or sea a spark being created.  If this test is successful it indicates the coil works and the module or its wiring are suspect.

[pickuptruck1994]

If you have the disy with the module on the side which i think is the one you have. You have to have a positive going to it as well. Yourll need to check what way round the neg and pos go on the module with a quick google search. I think you can buy the plug that clips on to it.
Regards
Jordan

[KernowCooper]

here is the connections for the module which go directly onto the coil + and -

 

Ensure you have 12v on the coil + and if it does not start then look in the FAQs there is the full tests for the module and the distributor trigger

 

 

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•  Ignition module correct wiring.jpg   15.18K   9 downloads

[olliewiltshire]

Ok thanks guys, I will have to give this a go tomorrow night and I will let you know how it all goes, is there a way to test the module as well while I'm there?

[KernowCooper]

yes the module tests are also in the post http://www.theminifo...agnosis-repair/

[olliewiltshire]

Hi guys
So I have tried this -ve test and as I was doing it I noticed the coil was very hot, is this the problem why I'm not getting a spark do you think?
Ps. I didn't get a spark when I carried out this test

[mini13]

when checking the coil, you should only dab the -ve connection to ground momentarily, if you leave it on the coil will get warm and can eventually fail.

 

what is going on is, when you pass a current through the +ve and -ve terminals, it charges the core of the coil ( essentially an electromagnet) when you remove the current the electromagnetic field dissapates into the HT connection and creates the spark.... so you get the spark when you remove the -ve connection.

 

you can also put a meter across the +ve and - ve terminals and should be able to see the voltage pulsing as you turn the engine over.

 

I like the 65d4 setup, but it can be a bit finiky, the coils can go down on occasion, and also the setup often dosent work with the incorrect coil. also the modules can go down, and even become iffy when hot. they need to have theheatsink paste on the back of them, so if you do remove it make sure there is some there.

 

I'm not sure how resilient the modules are to being connected the wrong way, I suspect not very, is it possible you wiored it back to front and killed it?

[olliewiltshire]

When performing the test I did only tap the - wire on the head but I didn't hear or see a spark! I have replaced the module and wired it to how it says in the docs on this page!
It's very mind boggling, as I don't see what the problem is but I will test the voltage tonight and see if I can see it pulsing while it turns over, If I can does this mean the coil is ok?
I don't know what I would do without you guys to help aha

Attached Files

•  image.jpg   47.96K   8 downloads
•  image.jpg   36.04K   7 downloads
•  image.jpg   43.97K   9 downloads

[olliewiltshire]

Thanks for all your help guys, turns out that it was the coil which was the problem. 

just glad its all sorted and to get back driving her ahah :)