Jump to content


Photo

Boot Repair Help


  • Please log in to reply
28 replies to this topic

#1 finch661

finch661

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,339 posts
  • Location: Kirkwall
  • Local Club: none

Posted 06 January 2015 - 10:03 AM

Mr rot has been feasting on my mini, i keep finding more and more :(  For those who havent been following my build thread; this started with me removing my rear quarter panel, finding a rotten wheel arch, boot floor and other bits and pieces. I removed the subframe and found more rot in the corners of the boot floor;

20150105_215334_zpshiesbn9y.jpg

 

20150105_215300_zpsmaundi2u.jpg

 

and on the other side

20141204_220622_zpsvzgrgp63.jpg

 

 

the valance was replaced about 5 years ago, and seems solid, but the rot is in the boot floor (the rest of the floor seems solid!). it looks like the subframe support is completely shot as well

 

I cant afford a full boot replacement, aiming for a 10" repair section.  I am now a bit overwhelmed in what i should do and how I should go about fixing this (i'm about 2 steps from scrapping it).

 

In terms of repair the boot floor, is it a cse of cutting off the valance and then cutting out the rot? In terms of the closing panels, how do you ensure that they are aligned ok?

 

sorry for the questions.


Edited by finch661, 06 January 2015 - 10:04 AM.


#2 stevearch0

stevearch0

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • Location: Shropshire

Posted 06 January 2015 - 12:32 PM

Mine needed major surgery in the same places.if your not removing the rear subframe, that will help keep everything aligned. Work on one side at a time, so the subframe is still attached in at least three places.ie, heelboard an one boot floor mounting.then split lower part of rear panel, boot floor and rear balance by drilling out spotwelds on rear seam.the more you leave in place, the more reference points you have. I never replaced the closing panels in the rear valance, as they are a moisture and dirt trap.

Hope this helps, steve

#3 chuffed

chuffed

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 131 posts
  • Location: Salisbury

Posted 06 January 2015 - 02:32 PM

I would do as stevearch0 said, but use a boot floor side repair panels and the rear 10inch repair panel to fix it. By using the side repair panels you will be able to fix more of the rust, and align the subframe holes whilst welding it in.

Then join up the rear repair panel, and finally the 2 brackets in the boot as well as the closing panels.

#4 Stu.

Stu.

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 912 posts
  • Location: My workshop.

Posted 06 January 2015 - 05:07 PM

I'd give the heelboard ends a good poking too if you've removed the sub frame. These normally corrode where the frame mounts up. 



#5 alex-95

alex-95

    I am THE CLAMP MAKER

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,042 posts
  • Location: l

Posted 06 January 2015 - 07:11 PM

As above remove the rear valance and the closing panels as these should be welded onto the boot floor for more strength for the subframe. If the subframe is removed then you could tack weld a bracket to a good part of the floor and drill the mounting holes out so that you know where they go cut out the rot and weld a new panel in and drill the holes. you can make your own panels easily, and a lot cheaper than buying the panels. Just do a bit of CAD (cardboard aided design) work and tranfer it onto the sheet metal (0.9mm for the boot floor)



#6 Ben_O

Ben_O

    Mill Road Garage

  • Paint Doctor
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,794 posts
  • Location: Isle of Wight

Posted 06 January 2015 - 07:20 PM

The rear arch to boot floor supports will also act as a good point to help line everything up.

 

You can use the holes that the rear trunnions bolt to help it all along as these holes are in the floor, the closing panels and the support brckets inside the boot.

 

It is a great idea to leave the subby bolted to the heelboard and support the back end of it with axle stands, then at any point, you can pop the bolts in place to line it all up.



#7 Craig89

Craig89

    Super Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 600 posts
  • Location: Highley, Shropshire

Posted 06 January 2015 - 09:08 PM

Take a look at this thread mate of when I did mine, might give you some insight:

http://www.theminifo...t-floor-repair/

#8 finch661

finch661

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,339 posts
  • Location: Kirkwall
  • Local Club: none

Posted 07 January 2015 - 08:34 AM

thanks for the help/info guys! i had alook at the rear valance last night, and it fell apart in my hands. managed to pull off about 3/4s of it by hand - very worrying!. I'll remove the last of the valance, and see how bad it looks!

 

Rich



#9 Covert

Covert

    Super Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 526 posts
  • Location: Northampton

Posted 07 January 2015 - 09:50 AM

rich , see this post , he has a genuine boot floor for sale for £100.

http://www.theminifo.../296138-panels/



#10 finch661

finch661

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,339 posts
  • Location: Kirkwall
  • Local Club: none

Posted 07 January 2015 - 10:07 AM

rich , see this post , he has a genuine boot floor for sale for £100.

http://www.theminifo.../296138-panels/

cheers buddy



#11 sonikk4

sonikk4

    Twisted Paint Polisher!!!

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 16,080 posts
  • Name: Neil
  • Location: Oxfordshire

Posted 07 January 2015 - 03:15 PM

You do need the full rear close out fitted as this forms part of the rear subframe mounting structure. As to the closeout part that attaches to the valance, as long as it's pumped full of paint followed by waxoyl etc then it should last.

#12 stevearch0

stevearch0

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • Location: Shropshire

Posted 08 January 2015 - 10:11 AM

You do need the full rear close out fitted as this forms part of the rear subframe mounting structure. As to the closeout part that attaches to the valance, as long as it's pumped full of paint followed by waxoyl etc then it should last.


It was just the panel in the valance I removed, as I have replaced far too many rear balances just because of rot in that area

#13 stevearch0

stevearch0

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • Location: Shropshire

Posted 08 January 2015 - 10:11 AM

Valances :-)

#14 finch661

finch661

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,339 posts
  • Location: Kirkwall
  • Local Club: none

Posted 08 January 2015 - 01:26 PM

shame we cant redesign that area of the mini. like i said, my valance was only replaced about 5 years agao, and the sides/closing panels were rotten! i underseal and waxoil my car every year as well!



#15 Ben_O

Ben_O

    Mill Road Garage

  • Paint Doctor
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,794 posts
  • Location: Isle of Wight

Posted 08 January 2015 - 01:45 PM

It is a real shame. That area is just a massive water, mud and salt trap. Not really much you can do as they are crucial to the rear subframe support.

 

Bloody Mini's!!






1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users