
Caliper Rebuild
#16
Posted 06 February 2015 - 05:28 PM
#17
Posted 06 February 2015 - 05:37 PM
This is a new one on me, in all the years of working on cars I've never heard of/seen someone using a grease gun to do this. It seems like such a bad idea, getting the grease out of the callipers must be a nightmare to the point I'd want to just chuck them in for refurb units!
It's actually a pretty old DIY method used when other tools are not available. If you have the calipers off the car and the pistons are stuck, using grease to pump the pistons out is safer than compressed air and not a particularly bad idea. The intention here is to get the pistons out with the least amount of damage with the understanding you will be rebuilding the calipers anyway. You waste a lot of grease but after that it's only a question of effort cleaning up everything. The bulk is removed by scooping and wiping it out of the caliper bores, the remainder is blown through with compressed air followed by normal washing, finishing up with spray brake cleaner.
I cannot afford to throw away items like brake calipers.
#18
Posted 06 February 2015 - 07:47 PM
The other option is to weld a piece of thick rod across the inside faces of the piston and then clamp a pair of mole grips onto the rod and then you can twist/pull to get it out
#19
Posted 06 February 2015 - 08:58 PM
I usualy put an air line up the fluid in, and gently pulse air though it, pops the pistons out :)
#20
Posted 06 February 2015 - 09:04 PM
I've seen the grease method used, but never done it myself, it looks like a nice controlled way of removing a stuck piston without damage. I've also seen air lines used, which (everytime I've seen it) is 100% effective and mind numbingly dangerous

I tend to pump them out as far as I can whilst on the car and then work them out with some piston pliers. I also use silicone grease for reassembly, it's safe on seals like rubber grease, but not as sticky.
If you do split the calipers be careful not to over tighten when reassembling, I don't know if it's a problem on minis, but the calipers are generally far softer than the bolt and the thread can be stripped reasonably easily.
#21
Posted 06 February 2015 - 09:49 PM
I know most workshop manuals say to use compressed air, but as they other guys have said, I think this would be potentially quite dangerous and possibly mess. I don't know for sure, as I've always felt it too dangerous to even give it a try.
I've not done the grease gun method either though heard of it done several times now (seems a waste of grease but if that's all one has,,,,)
On nealy all, I've managed to pull the pistons by either gripping them on the ID (many have a groove for this) or using Vice Grips (of course, replacing the piston after).
There was one though that wouldn't budge, I ended up welding a nut in to it and using a slide hammer.
What ever method, I really think Compressed Air should be avoided at all costs.
#22
Posted 06 February 2015 - 09:54 PM
FS
#23
Posted 06 February 2015 - 09:59 PM
#24
Posted 10 February 2015 - 07:53 PM
When using compressed air I put the calliper inside a pillow case or tee shirt that way if it comes out at 100psi it doesn't fly off like a loose cannon.
#25
Posted 19 February 2015 - 03:53 PM
#26
Posted 19 February 2015 - 07:10 PM
I think I may have hinted at that in an earlier post. I've found it best to get them started 'flat' ie, not get one side in and work around, as they just expand out and you'll never get that last bit in. They can be a ripe pain and yes, I have damaged a couple. (note to self, must make a internally tapered tool)
#27
Posted 19 February 2015 - 07:52 PM
Recently split a surplus to requirements pair of 8.4" calliper's, thought I would refurb them just in case I ever fit 12" wheels Pushed one piston out with a pin punch inserted through the brake pipe connection. The other one I got out by placing a nut and bolt inside the pistons recess and turning the nut until it tightened then pulled out with a pair of pliers. Worked well.
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