12 replies to this topic

[tom1]

I have seen a few adjustable ones online. I guess you drill and tap out the hex nut, but what size ? I was thinking UNF not metric, finer pitch better at sealing and you get more threads in the nut.

The thing is that, the online photos don't show you if there is some sort of spacer/washer that goes inbetween the the adjuster bolt and the spring. Most of the bolts that would be the same size as the flat on the outside would appear to be smaller than the inside diameter of the spring, so this would not alter the length of the spring. All the photo online only show the outside view 

Any photo, solution iders greatly received.

 

PS it's a new race engine running about 90 lbs.

[dklawson]

For a DIY valve you can simply find a washer that will just fit inside the cap but whose through hole is too small for the adjusting screw to pass through.

 

I have seen both metric and SAE size fasteners used, typically 1/4 UNF or M6x1.  You could go larger if you want to use 5/16 UNF.

 

If you are already running 90 PSI without the adjustable relief valve, adding the washer is just going to raise the pressure even higher.  You may want to cut off a coil from your current spring or buy the shorter spring that I believe was used on the Cooper-S.  

 

The image below is not specifically for a Mini but it shows the basics of the concept.

[tom1]

Thanks, I did try the copper s spring it made little or no difference, I think this is because it is shorter but stiffer.

I am running a ball type relief valve at present.

[Orange-Phantom]

I've got the Kad adjustable relief valve ready to fit when I pull the engine out to change the crown wheel and pinion.  I'll dig it out and take a few photo's of it for you if that helps.  (It'll be later on tomorrow night though).

 

I'm also thinking of fitting the ball type valve and spring set that you get from Minispares.

 

Also 90lbs seems a bit on the high side, what pressure is it running when it's up to temperature?  (I guess this may be why you want to adjust the pressure)!?

[Spider]

Be very careful running higher oil pressures.

 

Not going to say how to suck eggs, but if it were me, I'd be going the other way, reduce the Oil Pressure.

 

If you do end up making an adjusable valve (simple enough), you'll need some way of sealing the adjusting screw or it will leak. One way is to fit a lock nut and a copper washer.

[tom1]

 

 

Also 90lbs seems a bit on the high side, what pressure is it running when it's up to temperature?  (I guess this may be why you want to adjust the pressure)!?

I let her run up for quite some time. I didn't want to run her for to long with that sort of pressure, guess what the temp gauge didn't work. Have had to get a new gauge & sender(came as a set so should work perfectly) Just had to drill out the adaptor to make if fit. When can just buy something & it just fit !

 

Just had a thought is the ball a bigger diameter than the plunger is deep ? 

Love the drawing and like the copper washer ider  too.

[Guess-Works.com]

With the ball bearing you must lop of between 1 and 2 loops from the standard spring.

[Spider]

There was a discussion on the MKI Forum a little while ago about Oil Pumps and in particular using a Ball bearing in place of the orginal bucket and the problems / damage they cause

 

http://mk1-forum.net...ef valve#p82866

[Orange-Phantom]

Here's some pics of the Kad adjustable valve as promised.

 

Moke Spider I clicked on that link but am not getting anything from it.  Would you mind posting their findings up, I'm very interested to hear what has been said on the subject.

 

I purchased the ball and spring set from Minispares thinking this is the way to go as it won't jam if any swarf gets in it, but if there is a very good reason(s) not to, then I'd prefer to know and avoid an expensive and time consuming mistake!

 

Cheers peeps!

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[tom1]

Thanks, so by the looks of it there is no copper washer and the lock nut, interesting. Is that a washer in that ?

[Orange-Phantom]

No problem.

 

It's a nut that goes into a lock nut and behind that there is a small copper washer. The only other copper washer is on the main big thread that goes into the engine block.

 

Inside it there is no washer, it's just a plunger and the barrel.

 

I'm still very interested to hear about the issues/problems that can arise from running the ball bearing instead of the original bucket if anyone can elaborate I'd be most grateful.

 

Cheers.

[Dan]

It's to do with the different characteristics of the two valves and the way the opening size changes as the valve is pushed back. As soon as the ball has lifted off the seat it tends to chatter around while the plunger is held quite well in place. Also the plunger is the same shape as the seat so when it lifts is creates a tunnel and the size of the opening can modulate quite well, the ball is only just touching the seat so once it's open it's open. This tends to mean the pressure is smoother using the plunger, where the ball gives more of a pulsed pressure. The chattering is reduced if you have the original cup that supports the ball on the spring. But the ball is less likely to jam than the plunger.

Or something like that.

[tom1]

Made/ modified my relief valve and got the oil pressure down to 60 lbs    Thanks for your help