25 replies to this topic

[Flatrightout]

Thanks for reply some helpful info, I'm based in bristol, couple more questions for ya.

It's the labour that makes Mini engines, and most other engines, expensive.
You will have no problems building it yourself.
For a nice road engine do not over-cam it or you might not be pleased with the results. The Mini is never going to be a quick car in overall terms.
Best to build a nice driveable car with around 80 bhp and with that you can use a standard gearbox with a fairly high final drive ratio.
Consider the following:
 
Gas-flow the cylinder head and fit 35.6 mm inlet and 29.5 mm ex. valves. - using vizzards book is this mod something I could do and get good results from ? Or better to buy a slark head or similar ?

Lighten the flywheel slightly. Q) - possible that I could get this carried out at my work, No ballence facility, any thoughts ?

Use an MG Metro or Kent 266 cam (or equivalent SW or Piper). Q) - mg metro cam, mini spares as good as anywhere ?

Use a standard rocker shaft (not worth a 1.5:1 offset roller shaft as the gain is small for the cost) Q) - confused here ! £200 for how much bhp gain ? Was planning on it but might take the Mrs out instead.

[Flatrightout]

Speeding along now, had my head acid dipped today so look like new, have a press but thanks for your offer brother

[Cooperman]

For a road engine you can do some really good improvements yourself without spending a small fortune on a professionally flowed head. Get a copy of Vizard's book - it's all in there.

 

Yes, get the flywheel lightened at your work. If they can do aerospace stuff, a Mini flywheel is easy. Don't work about balancing if you don't intend revving it much over 6000 rpm.

 

Mini Spares will supply an MG Metro or Kent 266 cam. On a road car you'll not notice any real difference between the two.

 

When I fitted 1.5:1 roller-tip rockers to my rally 'S' I gained a measured 2 bhp at the flywheel at 5700 rpm up to 7000 rpm, but nothing below that. I also believe I lost a bit of bottom end torque, but we didn't have time to measure it.

 

The key is building a well-assembled and accurate engine. Measure everything at all stages. Do a 'dummy build' before final assembly and time in the cam very accurately. Make sure everything matches properly. All the advice and help you need is on here and responses are quick.

 

Then enjoy the retro aspects of driving a true classic car. 

[Flatrightout]

Sounds like a plan, thanks for the advice, final questions

Center main strap a good idea ?
Lighten timing gears worth the money ?

Taking into account the cost of parts and machining (boring) there isn't much in it to buy a block with new Pistons etc, do you have recommendations for purchasing ? Mini spares ? Im guessing stay away from ebay,

Can you clarify the differences between an mg metro engine non turbo and A series +

I'm guessing cam, valves, head. - just wondering if I should try and get hold of one of these.

[Flatrightout]

Ok I took the block off tonight, there are various wear marks in the gear box and marks / corrosion on the bores,

I think I already know what you guys are going to say but what would you do ?  image.jpg   56.64K   15 downloads  image.jpg   40.64K   18 downloads  image.jpg   38.58K   13 downloads

[Cooperman]

Sounds like a plan, thanks for the advice, final questions

Center main strap a good idea ?  Not needed
Lighten timing gears worth the money ? Unnecessary on a road engine

Taking into account the cost of parts and machining (boring) there isn't much in it to buy a block with new Pistons etc, do you have recommendations for purchasing ? Mini spares ? Im guessing stay away from ebay, There are no new blocks, so you might as well re-build your existing one. Then you know it has been done properly.
Can you clarify the differences between an mg metro engine non turbo and A series + MG Metro has around 73 bhp as standard due to its better cam and head. The A+ block, crank & rods are just later versions of the A-series engine as fitted to all Minis and a lot of Metros.

I'm guessing cam, valves, head. - just wondering if I should try and get hold of one of these.

[Flatrightout]

Bump ! Any thoughts ? Spoke to jon at guess works very helpful, his thoughts were that the engine and box looked healthy for 69k

The marks on the gears are manufactured like this.

He said Cylinder block look typical / healthy for 69k

Any thoughts peeps ?

[carbon]

If the bores are not excessively worn then a hone and new set of piston rings may be all that is needed.

 

Then spend money saved on a well ported fast road head and the MD266 or MG Metro cam. With these lower lift cams I think you will find the 1.4 lift rockers will make a difference in mid and top range power.

[Flatrightout]

Thanks carbon, good advice, instead of rebore, rebore, rebore repace everything

[carbon]

Check the top of the bores about 8mm down for a lip. If this is noticeable / deep then a rebore may still be needed. It all really depends on how 'perfect' you want the end result to be..

 

If you do hone and re-ring there used to be replacement ring sets available with have 'lip-dodger' top rings, with these the top ring has a very slight step in the face so that it won't clatter against the lip and break the ring.

 

A good machine shop should be able to advise on the options.

[Flatrightout]

There is not really a noticeable lip on bores, have you seen the deteriation between them ?

How about these taken this eve, mains and big ends caps.

To me mains looks scored and there has been too much end float,

Big ends look ok

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