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Crimp Connectors


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#1 Oggyp

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 08:05 AM

Hi all, I'm slowly putting my mini back together and now sorting through the wiring. Some spade connectors are in need or replacing but I hate the usual blue/red/yellow crimp connectors that we have in the garage!
Does anyone have a link to some more oem looking crimp connectors? Thanks in advance

#2 Spider

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 08:13 AM

These guys have a reasonable range

 

http://www.carbuilde...-and-connectors



#3 phil hill

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 08:44 AM

http://www.polevolt.co.uk/

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/

http://www.autosparks.co.uk/

 

Try any of these.  Are you thinking of the non-insulated spade type connector, the black shrouded connectors or the multi-pin connectors ??

 

Phil.



#4 One step at a time

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 10:02 AM

Wouldn't it look better soldering then heat shrink.
I know it'll take longer to do but you'll not have to worry about the joint failing.

#5 cal844

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 10:32 AM

You can solder the crimp connectors too ;)

#6 Oggyp

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 01:41 PM

Thanks for the replies... think I've found what I need now. The spade terminals I've found on car-builders have clear insulation covers and can be soldered which is perfect. I've bought some look tape too so it'll look factory again! :-)

#7 Ethel

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 02:29 PM

Nothing to gain from soldering, crimps are better at resisting fatigue.



#8 blackbelt1990

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 03:48 PM

I used these for mine recently!

http://www.theminifo...ng-thread-ever/

#9 Dan

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 06:58 PM

Wouldn't it look better soldering then heat shrink.
I know it'll take longer to do but you'll not have to worry about the joint failing.


Actually they are far more likely to fail than a crimp. Car manufacturers spend a fortune researching electrical reliability, crimps are best. Even Formula 1 wiring looms are all crimped. Solder doesn't like vibration, no matter how well it's been done.

#10 One step at a time

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 07:31 PM

Cheers Dan
You do learn something new every day 😃
This changes may plans for my future build.

#11 mk1leg

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 08:44 PM

Well I purchased some transparant covers and used Blue crimps and then cut the blur plastic off and slid the clear cover over.....

:highfive:



#12 evansisgreat

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 10:00 PM

http://www.altecauto...nals-2249-p.asp

I plan on using these when I do my loom. Found a while ago and bookmarked immediately.

#13 Dan

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Posted 10 March 2015 - 12:05 AM

Well I purchased some transparant covers and used Blue crimps and then cut the blur plastic off and slid the clear cover over.....
:highfive:


An important part of a crimp connector is strain relief. In a good non-insulated crimp there is a second crimp band that clamps the insulation of the cable to relieve stress on the main crimp that is actually carrying current. Pre-insulated crimps don't have these but use the fact the plastic barrel doesn't spring back open after being crushed to provide the strain relief. If you remove the plastic barrel from a pre-insulated crimp you have removed the strain relief, and are left with what is a rather poor connector in the first place. Buying proper good quality non-insulated crimps is really the best option.

#14 1275GTS

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Posted 10 March 2015 - 08:30 AM

Also when using crimp connectors make sure that you use a really good crimping tool. Not a cheap £5.99 type as these are rubbish.



#15 madaboutcherry

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Posted 10 March 2015 - 12:21 PM

Also when using crimp connectors make sure that you use a really good crimping tool. Not a cheap £5.99 type as these are rubbish.

these are the type to use,

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3f4616b450






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