I remove just three of the studs, makes exhaust removal easy peasy

Head Removal - Removing Manifold Studs As A Shortcut?
#16
Posted 10 March 2015 - 10:08 AM
#17
Posted 10 March 2015 - 10:57 AM
I removed the studs when removing my head. They were copper greased back in and they come out easily enough now. It makes lining the LCB up a little more tricky if they arent in but it stops you ruining the studs with your LCB too if you need to knock it back in place.
#18
Posted 10 March 2015 - 01:33 PM
Thanks guys. Round two will be tomorrow evening...lets just hope the remaining studs come out OK. Will then put copper grease on them when going back in.
#19
Posted 10 March 2015 - 05:12 PM
I always remove the studs and replace them with 1.25" long x 5/16" UNF hexagon head screws. That way the head can be removed very easily for head gasket changes, or for any other reason.
On the Ford Cortina Mk.1 and Mk.2 the manifolds were bolted on and that worked fine, as it does on the classic Mini.
Use good quality set screws.
Fully threaded bolts?
#20
Posted 10 March 2015 - 10:49 PM
I always remove the studs and replace them with 1.25" long x 5/16" UNF hexagon head screws. That way the head can be removed very easily for head gasket changes, or for any other reason.
On the Ford Cortina Mk.1 and Mk.2 the manifolds were bolted on and that worked fine, as it does on the classic Mini.
Use good quality set screws.
Fully threaded bolts?
Yes. Fully threaded bolts are called screws. There is no actual shear stress on those screws, so at 5/16" dia the shear stress will be very low. I've done this since I started rallying Minis over 50 years ago and I can tell you that it saves hours in maintenance time when taking the head on & off. It just makes it so simple. The key for me is that I can change a head gasket during a major rally so long as there is a 1-hour service allowed.
#21
Posted 11 March 2015 - 12:10 AM
Not being an engineer to me a screw is fitted with a screwdriver ... But I appreciate the knowledge update ...
#22
Posted 11 March 2015 - 12:26 AM
#23
Posted 11 March 2015 - 10:49 AM
The inlet manifold is located accurately prior to inserting he screws with either the location rings or with dowel pins.
The Ex. manifold can be a bit of a fiddle at first fitting, but if the head is removed with the manifold left in-situ, it lines up very easily.
With an LCB clamped at the bottom, or that horrible manifold to down pipe clamp, not having to undo these to move them clear of the studs just makes it all so easy (in relative terms, of course).
#24
Posted 11 March 2015 - 10:21 PM
all studs came out, bar the last one......i wouldn't have expected it any other way. Luckily it was the end one and managed to leaver it off the stud!
#25
Posted 12 March 2015 - 07:29 PM
Head removal - taking out head studs as a shortcut...
I've never tried taking out the manifold studs, but quite frequently have taken out all the head studs. This allows the lcb / exhaust to stay pretty much exactly in place and the cylinder head pulls forward.
This has always been on engines I have built, and the head studs are only torqued into the block with about 10 - 15 lbft.
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