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'89 Mini City To 'mk1 Cooper S'


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#541 johnR

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Posted 26 March 2022 - 04:06 PM

Following a bit of a hiccup when both of my trolleyjacks failed, a neighbour came to the rescue and I've drilled pilot holes for fitting the new sump-guard and got everything ready for removal of the long suffering 998.

Then it's steering rack removal (and re-furb) and mocking up positions for extra relays etc ready for new loom. 

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#542 Tones61

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Posted 26 March 2022 - 06:08 PM

Hi johnR,
Did you have clearance between the centre main strap bolts and gearbox casing,
I’ve seen posts that there is no clearance ? :-)

#543 johnR

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Posted 26 March 2022 - 06:23 PM

what do you mean by 'Centre main strap bolts'? My guard is the Monte Carlo one which has two steel 'wings' (which you can just see in the photo under the exhaust downpipes) securing it on the sides and three bolts along the front - all appear to clear. It was touching the RC40 two into one collector at the rear but I think I can turn that the other way up so the exhaust sits higher (which is probably a good thing anyway)


Edited by johnR, 26 March 2022 - 06:25 PM.


#544 johnR

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Posted 01 April 2022 - 04:49 PM

998 out, now to transfer shared parts such as the rad, lightweight flywheel, oil filter pipe, starter etc to the 1293.

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Edited by johnR, 01 April 2022 - 04:49 PM.


#545 johnR

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Posted 02 April 2022 - 09:31 PM

I started today by taking the clutch/flywheel off the 998 (came off with no bother - probably because it's been on and off quite frequently) and bolted onto the 1293. The radiator and coil are also ready to go on, just the oil pipe left now and the 998 can go into storage pending a supercharger one day? 

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#546 johnR

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Posted 06 April 2022 - 04:17 PM

Spent some time today polishing the wok, preparing the block and head for paint touch-ups and adapting the K&N HS4 backplates. The plates appear to be meant for two bolts to attach the filters, whereas I want to use my single central bolt filters. Having drilled the central holes and attached the centre pillars I found out why two bolts are used when the large head on the pillar securing bolts fouled the larger dashpots. I got round this by countersinking the plates and pillars and using some c/s bolts. Now I just need some 5mm solid rivets to block the standard holes in the backplates.

Getting there! 

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#547 johnR

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Posted 14 April 2022 - 06:43 PM

Spent a while in the garage yesterday - I unbolted the subframe mounts (one of the teardrops had come apart at @ 2000 miles), released the steering arms and unbolted the shox top mounts then used the engine crane to lift the body far enough to be able to remove the steering rack for it's re-furb. So far so good. Then I thought I'd carry out the easy job of fitting the fire extinguisher clip on the cross member in front of the passenger seat. I decided to use 2 rivnuts to secure it and drilled the holes. I tightened one up with no problem but the second wouldn't seem to grip and then the puller wouldn't unscrew from the rivnut, not helped by it rotating in it's hole. I eventually freed the puller but then the bolt wouldn't screw in so I ran a tap through it and tried the bolt again. it stuck and I can't remove it - once again the rivnut is spinning and there's nothing to grab hold of to stop it. I got pissed off and left it - the only thing I can think of to remove the bolt is to grind some flats on the rivnut flange so I can grip it with long-nosed pliers. a simple job that's turned into a nightmare - why didn't I just use self-tappers? Aaaaargh!

In better news, these beauties have arrived ready to adorn the engine bay when the new braided loom goes in for that Monte Carlo rally look.

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#548 johnR

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Posted 23 June 2022 - 01:57 PM

It's been far too long since I've had chance to work on the car but I couldn't work yesterday and today after I broke a little toe so thought it would be a good opportunity to fit the new sump guard. having jacked the body up off the subframe i drilled out the mounting holes and welded in captive nuts. A quick touch up of the paint and we're done. Very pleased with it - should add to the rally look that inspired me. Now I need to remove the steering column from the car - I took the rack apart because of vague steering but it seems OK. With them both off hopefully it will be more obvious where the problem lies. Then onto the wiring - don't think it'll be back on the road this year!

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#549 johnR

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Posted 21 August 2022 - 01:36 PM

Fire extinguisher fitted - then decided to do some grinding - turns out flip-flops aren't safety rated! the disc shattered and took a lump out of my foot.

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Edited by johnR, 21 August 2022 - 01:37 PM.


#550 colinf1

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Posted 21 August 2022 - 05:19 PM

Well you won't be doing that again!

Extinguisher looks great, nice tidy fit!

#551 johnR

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Posted 21 August 2022 - 07:11 PM

you're right - safety boots every time! The extinguisher is a good size and a very snug fit - very happy.



#552 johnR

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Posted 18 September 2022 - 04:40 PM

Steering rack checked on a static rig - a plank with two holes drilled in it for the ball joints - all seems OK so presumably the problem was either the column to rack clamp not tight enough or knackered teardrops causing vagueness. i've re-fitted the rack and am awaiting a solid subframe mounting kit from 'Spares. Now on to the wiring.



#553 johnR

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Posted 19 September 2022 - 03:50 PM

wiring coming out!

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#554 Retro_10s

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Posted 19 September 2022 - 04:26 PM

Coming along really nicely John. Quick question if you don't mind, which under-bonnet soundproofing kit have you used?

Cheers.

#555 johnR

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Posted 19 September 2022 - 05:50 PM

Coming along really nicely John. Quick question if you don't mind, which under-bonnet soundproofing kit have you used?

Cheers.

Thanks. It's a newton one






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