605 replies to this topic

[Vinmin]

Looking at your photo's it seems as though you have the front bumper fitted to the back. You'll never open the boot lid fully like that. I guess you have the rear bumper fitted to the front. That may be why the overriders foul.

[Midas Mk1]

You have the front bumper on the rear, hence the problem at the front. There is the notch cut out in the bumper lip for the overriders. You'll have difficulty with your boot with the above. 

 

Edit: Beaten to it.. aha

Edited by Midas Mk1, 15 June 2015 - 08:38 AM.

[JamesC]

Great build! I'm looking forward to seeing this beast finished!!

[johnR]

Thanks Vinmin & Midas Mk1 for spotting my rookie mistake - I'd pre-assembled the bumpers and overriders while the car was away being welded and when I fitted them I just put them on without thinking of the different lengths of bars.
The downside to having that problem solved is that I can no longer use my lovely stainless towing eye as it now fouls the front overrider!
John

[johnR]

Spent some time yesterday tidying up the new wheelarches - how have people mounted them - with a sealant as well as the rivets?

I've taken some more parts missed in the first batch to the platers and used cad (you know which type) to produce a bracket for the foglamp,

I've sent my seats off to Newton for covering and asked a friend with an engine crane to pencil in next weekend to help fit the engine.

Just need to get new brake pipes and fit them before that.

[jagman.2003]

For my arches I drilled all the holes prior to paint. I then used nuts & bolts on the front & rivnuts on the rear.

Between the arch & the body I used a rubber seal. Plenty of profiles & sizes available.

[johnR]

While I'm waiting for a parts delivery I thought I'd plan some brackets for the extra switches needed for starter, heated rear window, hazard lights and fog lamps on the separate one.
Also one for the manual windscreen washer pump.
Had a bonus today when I noticed that Somerford have re-manufactured the Mk1 heater knob - the last period part I was struggling with.

 

Edited by johnR, 01 November 2015 - 09:47 AM.

[Zeemax Adventure]

Wow what a great finish. I hadn't even thought about zinc plating but you've answered my question as to getting that OE finish for my cooper sport. Did u clean up everything first before sending them off for plating?

[johnR]

Yes I de-rusted them in Deox C and gave them a light spray of WD40 to keep them that way.

The platers vapour blasted the old paint off the clutch master for me before re-plating it - all in all a great service that really makes a difference to the detailing without going to the expense of buying everything new.

I've got my bonnet and boot back from the sprayers and fitted some of the bits to them.  Having the bonnet also meant I could check the position of the grill and surround and fit them too.

My new brake pipes arrived today, together with the interior door furniture which will give me the period look I'm going for.

[Vinmin]

I really hope you haven't drilled the bootlid yet as the S looks wrong. It should be more slanted

[johnR]

I looked at all the images I could find and there seemed to be a huge variety of positions so I just put it where I thought looked best and drilled the holes - I may have placed it the wrong way up - it's not fixed yet.

Had a result with some Lucas 7" spotlamps for a good price on Ebay today so I'll need some brackets - which type are best?

John

[jagman.2003]

Coming together nicely..!

[johnR]

Here's the door furniture I'm going to use.

 

I fitted the rear brake pipes today and started cutting the holes in the master cylinder blanking plate for the heater hoses - now I need to wait for the larger stepped hole cutter I've ordered to arrive to be able to finish it.

Edited by johnR, 27 January 2018 - 02:59 PM.

[Vinay-RS]

Ooh so shiny :) 

[johnR]

Today I spent way too long putting the grill surround ends on - an article I read talked about sliding the moulding onto the clips but this isn't possible - they need to be pressed onto the clips. I used self tappers to fix the clips so I could adjust them as necessary.
I tried running the new front to rear brake pipe but found that it's shorter than the original one - which is odd as virtually all the other pipes were slightly longer. The original pipe followed the heel board over the rear subframe but I think I can make the new pipe fit by routing it under the subframe straight to the 'T' connector - with the bonus that I wont have to take the rear subframe out to fit it.
The new minisport fuel pipe is longer than the original so I've routed that under the subframe too,using an extra 3" of pipe.
I've dropped the front subframe out to fit these pipes and the battery lead - although I'm struggling to work out what route this takes from the toe-board?

 

 

Edited by johnR, 13 June 2017 - 09:04 AM.