36 replies to this topic

[nicklouse]

As above, one half in the timing sprocket and the other half in the damper.

[nicklouse]

[Steve220]

From what I can see it looks like a time fatigue break (like if you consistently bend a piece of metal backwards and forwards until it snaps). Was the crank bolt tight when you removed it?

[nicklouse]

Very. As normal.

[The Matt]

When did it break?  As you were undoing the bolt?

[carbon]

Nick,

 

Of of interest what type of crank damper are you running, and is the engine used at high rpm?

 

As Steve says this looks like it could be a fatigue failure of the woodruff key, and the crank damper does have to work hard on a tuned 1275 used at high rpm.

[nicklouse]

This is what I was thinking.

Might be time to upgrade the standard damper.

[Steve220]

Nick,

Probably worth going for a viscous damper pulley whilst you're looking at a replacement!

[nicklouse]

Ok got a link? And are they timing trigger compatible?

As I will be losing both the water pump and the dizzy down the line.

[Spider]

This is what I was thinking.

Might be time to upgrade the standard damper.

 

Almost certainly, that will be the issue.

[nicklouse]

8.5k might be an issue.

I wonder when it went. I think I last looked in there in 1994.

[Tupers]

KAD make one with a built in trigger wheel. Clicky

[nicklouse]

KAD make one with a built in trigger wheel. Clicky

Ouch. And thanks.

Now to check if it will work with the planed timing cover change and planned mappable ignition system.

[Spider]

Try Romac

 

http://www.romac.com.au/balancers.html

[tsumini]

First time I've seen two parts share a woodruff key. IMHO each should have it's own woodruff key.  Damper side of machined groove looks damaged. Any new damper would probably do the same thing even if secured with a new key.  Maybe a good machinist could machine a new groove in situ?