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Mk1 And Mk3 Differences


Best Answer mk3 Cooper S , 05 June 2015 - 11:19 AM

The best compromise would be to add he following to your shell

 

External hinges (someone manufactures a solution that bolts directly onto the door / A panel

Rear light conversion panels

Sliding door windows

Remove the bonnet lip

 

The interior and trim grille etc should just be a straightforward fit.

 

This will give the MK1 look and will convince a lot without the massive total amount of work required?

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#1 Jon937

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Posted 04 June 2015 - 06:08 PM

Hi I currently have a mk 3 mini.

 

I like the look of the mk 1. Please could someone comprise a list of all of the differences between the mk 1 and mk 3?

 

Things I already know

external door hinges

A panels to accomodate hinges

door sliding windows

centre speedo

steering column coweling

10" wheels

7.5" brakes

rear lights

door bottom corners both round, instead of one round one square (don't know if door same size)

no arch extensions

grille

door handles

numberplate lamp housing

A series to A+ engine

gearbox ratios and selector

shell colours

 

Thank you



#2 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 04 June 2015 - 06:44 PM

from your list, you don't have a mk3 mini, but a mk5 or later



#3 Cooperman

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Posted 05 June 2015 - 10:17 AM

It is virtually impossible to convert a Mk.3 or later into a Mk.1

Virtually the complete side of the shell from A-post to the rear is different. The B-post is completely different to allow for the longer and different shape door which allows wind down windows.

The front sub-frame mountings are completely different.

The rear side windows are a different height, the gutters are different, the back of the front inner wings are different with the door support structure changes.

The floors and central tunnel are different.

 

Years ago I restoring a Mk.2 Cooper 'S' by using a brand new later shell. The conclusion I came to was that to do the job correctly would involve putting a brand new shell into a body jig, cutting off the sides, removing the floors and tunnel, cutting into the front bulkhead to fit adaptor pieces, welding in new sides, adding the gutter strip, cutting off the entire A-panels and re-building as Mk.1, buying doors, buying hinges, changing/modifying front panel sub-frame mounts and sub-frame tower mounts (for twin-bolt towers).  That lot would cost a small fortune.

When a full re-paint is added it would be cheaper to buy a decent Mk.1 in original condition which could be done for around £6000. I have a 1964 Mk.1 in restroration at present. The work is a lot less than the conversion and I reckon that having paid less than £2000 for a completely stripped down project, but with virtually everything for a full restoration I'll have a fully restored almond green/white Mk.1 850 for around £4500 including everything.



#4 AVV IT

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Posted 05 June 2015 - 10:33 AM

Isn't the mk1 rear window slightly smaller, than on later models too?

#5 mk3 Cooper S

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Posted 05 June 2015 - 11:16 AM

Yes and the light switch panel is different too



#6 Cooperman

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Posted 05 June 2015 - 11:17 AM

Yes it is. My assessment was for a Mk.2 Cooper 'S' which had the larger rear window, so I was forgetting that.

I also forgot the boot lid, which is different on a Mk.1/Mk.2, the parcel shelf, possibly the RH inner wing which had a big hole on cars with full fresh-air ventilation (this can be plated over), headlining, interior light, steering column, petrol tank, petrol pump, some wiring and I'm sure there is more.

 

It really is cheaper to buy a Mk.1 than to try to convert a later car to full Mk.1 specification. In my case, the Mk.2 'S', which was a 1968 car, had a very poor shell, but I rebuilt the existing shell with extensive use of new heritage panels and was pleased I did so as the car was then a genuine original fully restored rather than a re-shelled one with an extensively altered later shell which I think would have cost me literally thousands to do. It would be easy to spend £8000+ on altering a Mk.3 onwards shell to full Mm.1 specification, but you would still not have a genuine Mk.1. Much cheaper to buy a Mk.1 project, restore it and have a valuable and attractive early Mini.



#7 mk3 Cooper S

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Posted 05 June 2015 - 11:19 AM   Best Answer

The best compromise would be to add he following to your shell

 

External hinges (someone manufactures a solution that bolts directly onto the door / A panel

Rear light conversion panels

Sliding door windows

Remove the bonnet lip

 

The interior and trim grille etc should just be a straightforward fit.

 

This will give the MK1 look and will convince a lot without the massive total amount of work required?



#8 Cooperman

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Posted 05 June 2015 - 12:29 PM

The best compromise would be to add he following to your shell

 

External hinges (someone manufactures a solution that bolts directly onto the door / A panel

Rear light conversion panels

Sliding door windows

Remove the bonnet lip

 

The interior and trim grille etc should just be a straightforward fit.

 

This will give the MK1 look and will convince a lot without the massive total amount of work required?

 

That is the only practical way of doing it. You would still have the doors with the square corners, but it would look 'sort-of' like a Mk.1.

However, the OP was asking for a complete list of Mk.1 v Mk.3 and they are very substantial. So much so that it is not really 'do-able' unless you are prepared to throw a lot of money at the project for little return.

Go on, sell the Mk.3 & buy a Mk.1 850 - you know you want to and it will cost a lot less in the long run and you'll end up with an original :D .



#9 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 05 June 2015 - 02:29 PM

like this....

 

Attached File  Image010.jpg   81.26K   23 downloads

 

in fact I didn't bother with the doors or rear lights...

 

Still looks old enough, but is actually a 1987 Advantage


Edited by Guess-Works.com, 05 June 2015 - 02:29 PM.


#10 Cooperman

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Posted 05 June 2015 - 04:22 PM

Here is a 1997 Cooper MPI:

 

100_2603.jpg

 

But it just has Mk.1 grille, grille surround and the arch extensions removed.

There is truly little point in considering a full rebuild of a Mk.3 onwards to a complete Mk.1 specification and configuration.



#11 Jon937

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Posted 05 June 2015 - 11:55 PM

It was mainly all the bits that can be seen from outside the vehicle, even through the windows.I just want a mk1 look rather than creating a mk1.

#12 CityEPete

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Posted 06 June 2015 - 08:57 AM

I am not proud to admit that when I watched the film 'RUSH' I did not notice that the Cooper was a fake that did not even have external hinges until the car went up for sale on eBay a few months later, Lol.

 

For me it must have 10" wheels, the front grill and suround, the rear lights but not so bothered about the narrow rear window, knock on arch trim rather than any arches.

 

The one above Cooperman linked would look much older and more MK1 like without the Rover paint job and mirrors, paint it Island blue and put a pair or chrome mirrors on it, lose the spots or fit old Lucas ones and it would look even older, although it is nice anyway IMO.



#13 Cooperman

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Posted 06 June 2015 - 09:01 PM

That was my Grandson's as his first car when he was 17. He 'found' the surround and grille in my store together with the Mk.1 Morris 850 grille badge and, on the boot a 'MINI-MINOR' badge. Deleted the wheel arch extensions and that was easy as it had a very comprehensive body rebuild.

We painted the roof silver and the mirrors and it did attract some nice comments for him. However, he quickly decided a Mini was not an ideal daily driver and now has a Mondeo Titanium X Diesel.


Edited by Cooperman, 06 June 2015 - 09:03 PM.


#14 CityEPete

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Posted 08 June 2015 - 07:48 AM

How could anyone climb into a Mondeo instead of that ace mini?!

#15 nicklouse

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Posted 08 June 2015 - 08:54 AM

It was mainly all the bits that can be seen from outside the vehicle, even through the windows.I just want a mk1 look rather than creating a mk1.


from your orignal post Mk 3 had 10s and did not have the A+ engine and may or may not have had the remote or rod type gear linkage. As has been implied earlier.




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