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Helicoil Kit / Thread Repair On Headstud Number 1


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#16 Minigirl

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Posted 16 July 2015 - 09:32 AM

Why cant you screw the coil fully into the head and leave the tang bit on?

#17 dklawson

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Posted 16 July 2015 - 12:17 PM

I think you misread or misunderstood the instructions.  Go back to Cooperman's last post (post #12 on page 1).   

 

You DO use the tang to screw the insert in 1/2 turn below flush (not simply 1/2 turn in... 1/2 turn until the top end is below flush).  Once the insert is below flush you break the tang off.  The reason you break the tang off is so the hole is unobstructed for maximum thread engagement.



#18 Minigirl

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Posted 16 July 2015 - 08:08 PM

Aaaaa the instructions show an image of the coil slightly in the thread which was confusing a little.

The thread on the stud is only the length of the coil, is that right or has the studs thread been cut?

It might be my torque bar as 50 ftlb is quite a force on the bar. Need to get it checked

#19 dklawson

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Posted 17 July 2015 - 02:04 AM

I do not know how deep the block would have originally been tapped.  However, for maximum strength of a tapped hole in steel you would want a tap depth of 1 to 2 times the diameter of the fastener.  In this case, you would want a tap depth (insert length) between 3/8" and 3/4" deep.  

 

The studs are not torqued into the block.  They go in finger tight. Only the nuts on the tops of the studs are torqued.  Search for past threads on the board which discuss optimum torque values for both dry and oiled threads.






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