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Sump Plug Issue


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#1 Denver

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Posted 19 July 2015 - 06:35 PM

I've owned my mini for a few months now, and I came to change the oil as there was a drip. when I took the old sump plug out it had 3 washers and sealent attached to it, so alarm bells started ringing...... I carefully tried to refit a new plug but it wouldn't even start it looks like part of the thread has stripped at the beginning in the sump. What are my options ? Please bear in mind I'm in a small garage with basic tools.

#2 MaxDempsey

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Posted 19 July 2015 - 07:18 PM

When working in a workshop a bike came in with a stripped sump thread and it was fixed with a helicoil. I think sets can be picked up for around £10-£20



#3 KernowCooper

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Posted 19 July 2015 - 07:23 PM

Temporary fix to get you mobile is a tapered plug like this http://www.minispare...|Back to search

Just dont overdue winding it in, this would get you mobile until you can helicoil it and return to a standard plug



#4 Denver

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Posted 19 July 2015 - 07:29 PM

Do all garages have helicoils?

#5 MaxDempsey

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Posted 19 July 2015 - 07:42 PM

I'm not sure all will but many will. Even taking the car to an engineering place like an engine re builders will probably do the job as it doesn't have to be a specific car place as it is just the thread the work with.



#6 Stiggytoo

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Posted 19 July 2015 - 08:12 PM

I believe a time-sert is the best fix, albeit a tad more expensive.

#7 Spider

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Posted 19 July 2015 - 08:53 PM

There was a very recent thread on this subject

 

http://www.theminifo... time#8208sert=



#8 pusb

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 05:55 AM

Can a helicoil be done with the engine in situ?

#9 racingbob

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 08:26 AM

that conversion that Chris does in AUS

as my spare gearbox has self threaded one in there

 

M20 bolt so its cut down and you put a nut on it, ( why the nut )

or am I missing something

 

so you just tap a new thread and then drill the end and put in the  

magnet, is that right



#10 Dusky

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 09:02 AM

Think you bolt a bolt in a bolt. ( god I love english xd )



#11 Spider

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 09:27 AM

Bobby, maybe this might help give you a better picture?

 

Sumplugrepair%2011%20WM_zpsglibawd4.jpg

 

The hollow M20 bolt is screwed and loctited in to the Gearbox, theoretically never to be removed again, then a stock Sump Plug is fitted in to the hollow bolt.

 

Then, every time you change the oil, instead of taking some of the Gearbox Case away with the removal of the Plug, it's steel on steel, so dosen't bugger up.


Edited by Moke Spider, 20 July 2015 - 10:08 AM.


#12 Titchywitch256

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 09:55 AM

Temporary fix to get you mobile is a tapered plug like this http://www.minispare...|Back to search

Just dont overdue winding it in, this would get you mobile until you can helicoil it and return to a standard plug

 

I had to use one of those and I was very careful when putting it in. I get about 1 drip of oil out overnight, but am wary of tightening it up any further. My plan is to leave it in until the winter and replace with a helicoil. Mini Sport do a kit

 

http://www.minisport...-screws-in.html



#13 petey81

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 10:02 AM

Maybe this might help?
 
Sumplugrepair%2011%20WM_zpsglibawd4.jpg
 
The hollow M20 bolt is screwed and loctited in to the Gearbox, theoretically never to be removed again, then a stock Sump Plug is fitted in to the hollow bolt.
 
Then, every time you change the oil, instead of taking some of the Gearbox Case away with the removal of the Plug, it's steel on steel, so dosen't bugger up.



Hi
Where do you get hold of these?
Seems a good idea.

#14 Spider

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 10:07 AM

I make them, but I don't do them in any commercial way. Just find an engineering shop (or a mate who's handy with a lathe) and have them drill & tap an M20 bolt, maybe slim the head down too.

 

Sumplugrepair%2007%20WM_zps7ispsmbw.jpg


Edited by Moke Spider, 20 July 2015 - 10:16 AM.


#15 dklawson

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 12:02 PM

Chris, do you pin or Loctite the M20 into the sump?

 

If you have a good, flat surface for the sealing washer, I suggest switching from the copper washer to a bonded rubber/metal seal (Dowty washer).  They seal with very little torque and the squished rubber prevents the plug from backing out.

dowty-seal-250x250.jpg






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