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First Drive Mk1 850 Overheating Issues


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#16 Spider

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Posted 14 August 2015 - 10:39 PM

No a real big deal if the engines have been swapped over, but nice to know what you have, especially when looking for parts, eg, the pistons in the Aust engines had a different con rod and a press fit pin, just stuff like that.

 

Thanks for the pic of the plate. I have seen a few of these on different cars from time to time, but have no factory / dealer documentation on what they are or who / where they were fitted. It appears to be some sort of export plate, but I'm not 100% sure on that.



#17 Darthteddy

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Posted 14 August 2015 - 11:21 PM

20150814_155613_zpsfxxyx8ip.jpg

#18 Darthteddy

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Posted 14 August 2015 - 11:27 PM

20150814_155604_zpse2pman5y.jpg

#19 Spider

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Posted 15 August 2015 - 12:49 AM

OK Cheers. Yeap a Rod shift type Gearbox. You'll need to retain that top steady.

 

That is also not original, but in so many ways, better in any case, not the least of which is Synchromesh on 1st Gear.

 

Also appears to have a lower steady fitted. I haven't had much to do with these, but was looking at one the other day. They are a bit of a poor design. We never had these on any Aust made car, so a bit of a rareity in these parts.



#20 Darthteddy

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Posted 15 August 2015 - 01:08 AM

Im going to have to order a new upper steady bar set up. The current one is wayyyyyy to restrictive. Any recommendations for an aforable one?

Edited by Darthteddy, 15 August 2015 - 01:09 AM.


#21 Spider

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Posted 15 August 2015 - 03:11 AM

The Original Aust ones were all pretty much the same, only there were 998 / 1100 ones and then we had 1275 ones, only none of these were adjustable as yours appears to be. They never fitted these in the UK (as far as I know), it appears they relied on the lower ones only.

 

Have a look at DSN Classics, they have a slightly different one.

 

However, before you do that, in what way do you find yours restrictive?  Maybe I'm just used to them being there, but I don't find them restrictive. One tip I will also add though is to loose the studs and fit bolts (should be 5/16" UNC), that will make life somewhat easier I suspect. Whether you stay with the studs or swap over to bolts, I'd suggest always making a point of greasing them before fitting the Thermostat housing, just to avoid corrosion.



#22 Darthteddy

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Posted 15 August 2015 - 04:25 AM

The quarter inch or so keyhole in the middle of the plate is the only place for the coolant to flow, and it makes it impossible to install a thermostat. So instead of the 2" diameter hole minus the thermostat center, the coolant can only flow through that little keyhole. Surely that is not enough.

So instead of this

IMG_3525_zpspksabecu.jpg

Coolant can only flow like this(in the black area)


tempFileForShare_2015-08-14-21-23-41_zps

Edited by Darthteddy, 15 August 2015 - 04:30 AM.


#23 Spider

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Posted 15 August 2015 - 05:05 AM

Ah, OK, got ya now.

 

I've just gone back to the photo where that was still fitted to the engine and it looked to be junk in the coolant, but now you've pointed out, it's a solid plate with a small hole drilled / punched in it.

 

OK, it should look like this one;-

 

http://minisport.com...000-1100cc-head

 

But you could cut yours out with a hole saw on a drill press.

 

Sorry, when you said 'restrictive' I thought you meant it was restricting access to that part of the engine bay.



#24 Darthteddy

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Posted 15 August 2015 - 07:01 PM

Yea its pretty nasty. I will just order a replacement because I don't really feel like fiddling with that one. 

 

The plate on the radiator panel says something like "for replacement parts, reference this number," So i assume its from a dealership to identify the build spec or something. 

 

I defiantly have my work cut out for me on this project. 

 

 

http://www.7ent.com/...d-sen0381a.html

 

Looking at getting that stabilizer to replace whats on it. Only because I won't get killed on international shipping. 


Edited by Darthteddy, 15 August 2015 - 07:04 PM.


#25 Spider

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Posted 15 August 2015 - 08:59 PM

Fair enough on fraffing around with the one you have, if the faces on that one are heavily rusted, you might have had trouble getting it to seal in any case.

 

Yeah, that one should be fine.

 

Cheers for that additional info on the plate. I know it says something similar to that on the one on the firewall.



#26 Darthteddy

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Posted 16 August 2015 - 01:17 AM

I really appreciate all of the assistance. Thanks to you I have a much better idea of what I have. 






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